You're correct in assuming that it is a coated leather. These leathers, fortunately for you, are a bit easier to get back in shape when they've been 'let go' over a period of time. Now, that's not to say you're going to get it back to showroom... keep that in mind.
That said, I'd recommend going with a 3-step process. Some of the steps may need to be repeated to really allow the leather to shed the built-up body soils and general crud that are giving the surface a dingy look.
The steps I would follow are as follows:
1. Gross Contamination Removal - Using a hot, wet 100% cotton terry cloth, remove the 'gross' contamination from the seats. Don't 'scrub' but, don't just allow the towel to coast across the top of the leather either. The objective here is to prep the leather for the next cleaning step. Rotate the towel frequently and keep it 'hot'. If you note that your towel is overloaded, obtain additional towels. I would recommend doing this on ALL seating surfaces -- remember, the only 'leather' part of Ford's seats are the flat bottom and flat back -- ie: the surfaces that would touch skin; the others are vinyl. (I should note, though, that you may treat the vinyl areas like the leather as it will not be detrimental to those materials).
2. Leather Cleaning -- Using a dedicated leather cleaner (not a combo product (clean/condition)), follow the directions explicitly. I would recommend Meguiar's Rich Leather Aloe Cleaner (a blue gel) (
here's a link). Again, use 'several' towels if necessary and repeat this step until you get it where you want it. Also, I'd treat ALL surfaces in front and back (you'll never realize how dirty the back actually is until you clean it).
Another product that I like on COATED LEATHER is Lexol pH Balanced Cleaner (orange bottle). I will say that you SHOULD NOT use this product on aniline leathers (uncoated -- ie: your $5000 leather couch). I find this product to be very effective on high-grunge seats.
Both of the aforementioned products are available at Pep Boys and, sometimes, other 'chain' auto part stores. Call for availability.
3. Condition -- A very critical step. Some will argue that, since the leather is coated, you need not condition. WRONG. That coating is VERY porous and thus, allows the conditioner to work into the leather. Further, not conditioning that coating will lead to cracking and other failing features as it needs necessary emollients and such to maintain it's pliability.
Start with another wipe down of the surfaces with a HOT, damp towel. HOT is the key. Do one seat at a time immediately prior to conditioning.
Remember, leather is skin. Moist skin soaks up more 'lotion' when you have dry skin -- on your arm for instance -- leather reacts the same way.
When conditioning, and to avoid product waste in a towel, I'd recommend putting the product directly on your hand and massaging it into the leather. Use an ample volume and don't be afraid to leave a thin coat on top of the leather. At the end of the procedure, you can come back with another 100% cotton terry towel and remove the excess that didn't get pulled into the leather. I wouldn't recommend treating vinyl surfaces with the leather conditioner but rather with a high-quality water-based vinyl treatment like 303 or Vinylex.
The key points:
Don't move forward unless you've got the step you're working on done and done to your satisfaction.
Don't be afraid to use the hot, damp towel. The moisture helps open pores in the coating and/or leather and will aid in removal of ground in crud.
Don't be afraid you're going to over condition. You're not going to. Remove any excess product with a towel as mentioned.
Do all of the surfaces with cleaning steps and only the seating surfaces with the conditioner. Don't neglect or 'spot clean' as you'll realize that your surfaces probably all have some grime and could use some loving.
Ask any questions that you have! We've got a nice cross-section of detailing professionals here on our site. If we don't know the answer, we'll point you to someone who does!
Enjoy!
-RP-
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