I'm planning to install power windows and power door locks to my 2003 XL. I bought used door wire harness and it had this relay set.

Where this is mounted in trucks with factory power windows/doors?

 

What MY and trim level did the wiring come out of ?

Did it have the factory RKE ( Remote Keyless Entry ) ?

I am guessing it is the OTD ( one Touch down ) for the driver's side, and the driver's door unlock, unlock all, and lock all relays for the factory RKE functions ( that is my guess at the moment )

If so, you won't need these, you would need the CSM from the truck ( if it is a '01 or newer donner truck, else it is a RAP ), and at that point it is a lot of work to add the RAP/CSM and the factory RKE.

If the harness is completely intact, it should reach from the CJB ( Central Junction box / cab fuse panel ) to the oval area in the top of the dash ( this is where the RPO relay block is on the 99-03 MY trucks ).

 

It was from 2000 F150 Lightning.

I don't know.



That's good to know. The harness is completely intact at the moment, but I'd assume I need to break it before utilizing it (it's easier to cut it than dismantle my truck). I need to study what actually I can use from the harness in my installation besides the connectors to door panel switches.

 

That would be a RAP in the 2000 MY truck.

Might be easiest to wire in the door locks & power windows, and not have the RPO relay block. That is going to be a lot of work to add a RAP to a 2003 MY truck with the wrong trim level. Plus you would need to buy the RAP.

The OTD function, you can get the Ford modules from Pony Performance.

 

I pulled out one of the relays and based on the printed schematics they seem to be standard accessory relays - so I am able to use these in my application.

 

Those are 1/2 size Ford ISO relays from the looks of it.



Don't think you need any relays if you leave that part out. That is so the RAP could trigger the window & power locks without burning up.

The switches are designed to take the AMP load of the window and locks without a problem.

 

Had to get the Power Door Locks diagram, took me a bit to get to it.

For the windows, wire the switch direct to the motor on the driver's side, as installed on the passenger side, and leave the lead for the OTD off.





In the diagram above, F already goes directly to the motor, just wire the switch ( 100-2 ) D to the motor A, and the switch directly controls the power window motor, no need for the GEM to be involved in the matter, and less wiring and headaches for getting the GEM to work ( assuming Ford still had GEM types, which yours could be the wrong version ).
You can add Pony Performance OTD modules to both sides if you want this function.

Power Locks, next post

 

For the power door locks, just wire them as a truck without a RAP/CSM


If you try to get a CSM for your MY truck, the pins will be a bit different on the harness connectors you have ( that is from a RAP MY ). Don't know if a RAP can be installed in your MY truck or not.

Given you will need to make the harness for this install, vs what you have, it will be easier to install this way, as you are going to have to cut the harness you have. Try to get the wire for under the dash ( driver's side to pass side ) out of what you have, before cutting it in half. This will make it easy to pull them under the bottom of the dash, and out to the door.

You might ( should ) already have the rubber boot between the door and the A-pillar for the door latch sensor, you should be able to reused this for the wires for the power windows & door locks.

When you got the parts from the doner truck, did you get the door panels for the switches ?

 

Thanks SSCULLY, this is very helpful.

Yes, I have the door panels with switches from donor truck.

What is this part in wiring harness - I'd believe it is supposed to be inside driver's door:

 

That is the terminating resistor for the door handle keypad.
Not needed for the power locks themselves, that is part of the RAP ( which you are missing ) wiring along with the relay block.

Just follow the diagram above, you will have an easier time ( and cheaper ) installing them. Bit of wire changing to make it 1:1 for the factory setup, but should be easy enough to follow the diagram.

 

As a part of installation, opened up driver's side kick panel and found this connector:



What is this? Is it for trailer lights? It is not connected to anywhere.

 

Could be anything. 10 pin connector, there are a few in there.

It is nothing you need for the install.