So I go to autozone to see if the code that the computer threw was the same one as last week with the misfire.
They pull a 0316 which they tell me is a misfire. So I take it to Ford dealer by my house (they are open to 10pm!) for the check engine light to get it diagnosed. They tell me I also threw 0306 , which is a misfire in #6 within the first 1000 rpms. He hooks it up to the NGS tool and starts to run test. #6 is misfiring like a **** but only at idle. When he gives it gas the misfire goes away. Then he says that it is reading that bank one is lean and bank 2 is rich (which I think was the case when I blew my motor), so he checks the injectors, says all pass and all are flowing between 73 and 77.
So he pulls plug 6, scary watching a Ford tech try to get a coil pac out for 20 minutes when it takes me 2. Pulls the plug. I had change the plugs 2 days before with a new set of ngk br7ef and they had probably less than 75 miles on them. The tip of the plug was white?? Does white mean detonation?
I ask him to do a compression test on that cylinder and the gauge read 205 psi??WTF that is high right?

So I am guessing that one of the valves is fried or something.

Now I do not know what to do. First I will let you guys throw around some ideas on what could be wrong. I am hoping it is something I can fix myself because I just swapped out my blower for a ported one and I do not want to go through the hassle of swapping it back just to bring it to ford to f*ck up more.

So right now I am just about fed up and thinking of selling the truck and getting an infiniti FX 45 or and STI (something all wheel drive for the snow). I am going to call the guy I bought my truck from and see if they could cut me a deal on a new L but that would be my last choice. The other option I am thinking about is if it is the cylinder head, just pull it and get it PNP on a swap and not have to deal with ford.

*edit: we need spell check on this board*

 

Sorry to hear about your bad luck - Im not sure but can compression be too high ? Is that a bad thing ?

I fixed the thread title for you..

Try dloading iespell from iespell.com



Doug

 

A "White" plug indicates a lean condition. A misfire at that plug may be a bad coil or a cracked(internal) plug but if it's misfiring(at 'idle only') then the plug should be dark and carbon-looking not White A lean condition can lead to detonation.

Dan

 

I changed the coil pac on SUnday and the plug was brand new and looked perfect except for the white tip.

 

br7ef plugs will misfire badly. Maybe try some different plugs in the samr heat range...If you had a bad valve it would mis all the time not just at certain rpms... Sounds like you also have a tuning issue.. Did the plug look like these at all? These plugs were on the verge of distruction from being too lean...

 

I have no chip and just a ported eaton on there. I would think the stock computer would be able to compensate for that. I guess maybe I do not have enough mods for the br7 but would that affect the idle? I had them in my last motor and they were fine? I guess I will throw the stock plugs back in to see if that fixes it. But if it was the plugs causing the misfire would it be one all or most cylinders not just #6?

 

I had those br7ef plugs in my L for one day that is how bad the misfire was.. They will idle poorer than TR 6's,Denso's or Brisk plugs...Have you ever had your A/F's checked? It might be time....

 

BR7's are a high boost or nos plug....

Thats why you are missfiring.


Put some TR6's or Denso's in there.

Or turn the boost up with a pulley & chip....

 

Hasn't this been going on for like 6 months? I remember some time earlier this year that you had a problem coming back from E-town and had to limp home or something with oil leaking out. I forget why this happened. Was it that you ran a race side without having it dynoed on the race? Or were you shooting it?

I remember the saga of bad coil packs and burnt plugs. What I am asking is does all of this go back to the original problem?

 

Yep the truck has not run right since April. I should not be from the same problem since ford put a new motor in. I did spit a plug after they put in the new motor because they forgot to tighten them. They replaced the drivers side cylinder head on the new motor and I am just worried they screwed up something when replacing the head.
I had just about had it. My truck has been broke almost as long as it has been running properly. I did not drive the truck more than 1000 miles the whole summer and in a month or so there will be snow on the ground and I will not drive it until spring. I think I am just going to throw in the towel.

 

That sucks. I feel your pain. I sold my Mustang to a friend who just happened to be in my garage at the time when I said that I couldn't take it anymore. I had the engine out 3 times and replaced everything I could think of. Whenever I got it back in and running, the oil pressure would drop to 8 psi at idle within 10 minutes and remain there.

The wierd thing is that he put a completely different motor in there and had oil pressure problems, then sold it to another friend of mine who put a new motor in and a Vortech on it and it still had oil pressure problems. The car was just sold a few months ago to a stranger (who knew about the problems) and the engine blew within a week. The poor guy was babying the car from a light.

Did the original problem happen on the race side or with using nitrous? Just curious.

 

Doesn't that tell you something??? Put it back to stock and put either Denso IT-20 or the stock plugs which are also made by Denso. and then drive the schitt out of it. I don't think the issue is with the truck or the tech but rather what you are improperly doing to it. IMO

TB

 

I am hesitant to put denso plugs in since I melted 2 of them and that is what started this whole mess in the first place. I am going to put the stock plugs back in to see.

yysenhimer it was on the race side, i think 20 degrees of timing (maybe 18)

 

Could the wrong plug cause a misfire in only one cylinder. Would it not affect all or most of them?

 

aren't the denso IT-22's for highly modified L's and the IT-20's for close to stock? just wanting some clarification.