I understand that the AF1 is flow engineered and hand polished, and overall the absolute best intake money can buy for the F-150's. However, I'm wondering how it can make 10 more RWHP than the competition, or my ceramic coated WMS velocity tube with K&N drop in which I chopped the airbox where it starts to taper down to the fender opening. Basically I now have an open-element K&N with a composite heat shield and ceramic coated mandrel bent tube to the now ported TB. Seems to me, the non-coated stainless intakes and the fact that there is no "heat shield" would raise the charge temps say...10 - 20 degrees or so over my setup, and it still flows as much as the TB can handle. Money wasn't a deciding factor in going with the WMS, it was the fact that I could retain my heat shield and the ceramic coating that made me decide to go this way. Anyone care to enlighten me? BTW, the new intake is MUCH better than the modified factory elbow setup I was running. No Lag is the best I can describe.

 

It's the real deal, Airforce One adds 25hp to the rear wheels at 3,000rpm’s

 

Hi Jackal,

This really doesn't belong here in the Chips section, but just briefly -

And first, just to point out so nobody makes an incorrect assumption, the numbers that jpdadeo kindly lists in his post just above are correct for the 2004 & 2005 5.4 3V F-150 - no other F-150 sees those kinds of power gains from *ANY* intake kit, especially at such low rpms - that happens only on the 5.4 3V F-150, and it's due not only to the AF1's great design, but also to some aspects of how the stock air intake works. Just FYI as I don't want anyone to think they can get those kinds of numbers on say, a 1997-2004 F-150, or on a 4.6 F-150, etc.

If you did proper testing and data acquisition like we have done, you would quickly see the AF1 provides NO penalty in charge air temperature - that is a myth, usually propagated by those manufacturing plastic intake kits, and usually when they are comparing to *aluminum-based* intake kits - aluminum is the worst material to use for an air intake kit, as it takes on heat quicker and rejects it slower than most other materials.

The setup you have is fine is you want to go with a less expansive solution - but don't expect it to make the power that the AF1 does, and frankly, the way we see most people "testing" intake kits is wrong - it's no fun doing proper dyno testing alone for intake kits, and numerous additional measure have to be taken to get accurate & relevant results, even testing the stock intake setup.

I suggest using the SEARCH feature here to retrieve & read any of our numerous pasts posts on this topic, as in the past we have gone over this thoroughly in posts here - and it's just far too much to type it all out again.

If you're happy with what you have, that's fine, and that is all that really matters - whatever makes you happy with your vehicle. But don't think that because the AF1 is S/S that it adds heat to the IAT's, as that simply isn't the case. We've datalogged all of that numerous times.

In fact, we recently did testing on Marc Carpenter's 2004 5.4 3V truck and showed that compared to the stock factory intake, which uses the cold air inlet in the fenderwell and is made of the black phenolic resin-based plastic, at IDLE, in heat-soak conditions, the AF1 intake showed a DECREASE in IAT's of about 6-8 degrees that continued for over 10 minutes at idle.

AF1 does things that others don't do that help them make the power they do. Their background is in jet aircraft, for example, and they have applied some of those principles of airflow into the design of their air intake kits for these trucks.

The bottom line is, the AF1 is tops for sound reasons - if another system did a better job, we'd be saying so - that's what we do. AF1 is generally the best available for these vehicles in terms of power production, overall quality of materials, and appearance as well, for most people's tastes.

There are no shortcuts to getting the best results, that always takes the best available parts - though you can certainly get good results with other solutions.

You do whatever makes you happy with your vehicle, like every other vehicle owner does, as that is all that really matters.

 

Mike, what would be the benefit for changing out my AirAid intake for the AF1? So far I like the AirAid, not as pretty as the AF1 but how much of a power increase difference is there to make it worth while?

Thanks,

Larry (HamRadio)

 

If I'm not mistaken I believe the Airaid is Mike's second choice. It comes in pretty close to the AF1...around a 5-6 HP difference between the two, with the AF1 edging out the Airaid.

 

so am i reading that right? aluminum dissapates heat slower than steal? i think that is the opposite isnt it?

 

No, you are not understanding what Mike is saying.
He said that aluminum "absords" heat quicker and "rejects" heat slower. Rejecting heat is "repelling heat so it is not absorbed", which aluminum does not do well. Actually it "absorbs" it quicker.
Hope this helps ......

 

ok but it does dissapate heat much faster. i know that aluminum is used in many a intake on all kinds of engines. i understand the plastic and steel heat soak thing. but from my experience the aluminum will get rid of the heat faster. plastic will break and steal is the strongest. i am torn between an intake on mine and building or using just a tube. an airaid already hit me with engine codes.

 

Aarrrggh....I guessed I should have researched this a little more. I thought the Airade and the AF1 were a little closer in comparison. A 5 or 6 HP difference between the two is pretty significant. I bought the Airade....still a really nice setup though....no complaints.

 

Had mine from the first from Mike. Hard to cover the cost for only a few HP extra. But then again thats what we have been doing from the start.

Now the AirAid is all black and not metal. I have a great amount of room in front of my engine now since pulling the fan off so I guess the Airforce would look pretty nice sitting there. So there is one more reason to change over. Although I have never had a problem with my AirAid and I like the sound. Anyone compare the sound between the AirAid and Airforce?

 

The key word here should be "Transfer". Aluminum will transfer heat the fastest of the three different materials, plastic/phenolic will be second fastest and steel the slowest.

That being said is one of the reasons the AF1 uses a rubber coupling at the throttle body. It saves from leaching heat out the aluminum throttle body. Also the steel has a slower transfer rate and that means less radiated heat into the intake AFTER initial start up when air is flowing continuously.

I hope this helps.

 

here is a thermal conductivity chart for common metals...http://www.engineersedge.com/properties_of_metals.htm

yes aluminum is a good conductor but all good conductors are not good insulators obviously... so that means they wont hold the heat as long as say plastic or steel would. because it conducts to the cold as well as it does to the heat. ur intake manifold is made out of aluminum for more then one reason:-p

and a good reason AF1 is one of the best is low restriction of air turbulance through the tube... its hand polished inside and out...i bought a cheapo on ebay 3 years ago and hand polished it myself and the thing still looks brand new.

 

Polishing inside the tube to a chrome like finish or even super smooth does nothing.
Reason is the air flow closest to the tube surface forms an air boundary layer that the rest of the air near that surface layer slides over.
So the super smoothness means nothing.
An example of this action can be seen by those who have a chance to see waterflowing down a spillway where there are water ridges that form at intevals along the way. This is the water layer grabbing into the spillway, slowing down and the water behind it has to flow over the top forming the water ridges.

It's the turning radius, overall shape and general end connection dis-continuity that counts the most.
As the airfows while running at road speed, the tube takes on an average temp that reflects the outside temp plus the under hood airflow temp that radiates thru the tube wall.
The only time the material makes a big difference is when setting with little airflow in the tube such as at idle or slow moving traffic. Then the infiltration of engine/radiator heat overcomes the airflow temp inside the tube until the flow volume reverses it as the engine rpm rises and resulting air volume increases.
Now on the 3 valve motor, there something new going on that is causing all the extra power to be made over and above any other standard car and truck intake tract of past designs.
If you want to think there is other magic going on, be my guest.

 

I have a plastic/phenolic intake manifold on my '05 and had one on my '01. A beer says you have a plastic one yours....

I've dealt with thermal management issues on high power semi conductors and yes everytrhing you say about the character of aluminum is correct. The reason they DO NOT use aluminum for intakes lately is because they will readily conduct/leach heat from the heads and return it into the intake airstream.

 

most intake manifolds since the 70's have been made out of aluminum i asure u that 90% of everyone on this site has an aluminum intake manifold due to fact they last longer and dont crack on u...if u look in my sig u will notice mine is cast aluminum. and the main reason that on ur 05 model its plastic is for sound dampening... makes the truck quieter since plastic is an insulator not a conductor...