So that stuff will work in the tranny too? Well I guess it works about the same as in the differential on the clutches right? I never really thought of that... Do you notice a difference on shifting with some of the modifier in there?

 

Yes and no, infact disregard I said that lol. I did that as part of the mix when my tranny went out 3 years ago. Still going stong now, but yea, don't mess with the trans if you don't have to.

 

ok.. tranny is rolling along fine... so I'll just leave it be.

 

I bet it's not full synthetic.

Supertech is not recycled oil. It's made for Walmart by one of the majors. As long as it meets spec, you won't have a problem.

 

Thanks GLC, I asked the guy on the phone at autozone if it was full synthetic... but who knows what he was looking at... I thought it seemed a little cheap... I think from what I've seen at the stores the full synthetic will run at least 10 or 12 bucks a quart. I'm headed to autozone right now, try to pick up all the stuff I need for friday to do it myself. Called ford and they wanted $ 175 with dropping the cover or just pump it for 140. I think I'll do it myself for around 50 or so.
Now Glc, you're the one recommending the gasket right? I'm headed down to autozone to order it. Now when I put the rtv on... you said just a very thin layer... on the cover... then set the gasket on the cover? Will i then put another thin coat on the backside of the gasket or on the housing? Sorry for all the dumb questions... just don't want to end up with a leak. Also I haven't looked at the gasket... is it the rubbery type? If so is the rtv necessary?
Thanks again.
And I'll check out the supertech too. But it always seems that they never stock the oil aisle at my wal mart... so not sure if they'll have it.

 

hi again... did a little looking on the web about that supertech... looks like their regular oil is pretty good... but found alot of stuff about their gear oil not meeting spec... they label like it does... but apparently it doesn't pass the test...
Also saw this
http://www.da.co.shasta.ca.us/includ...r_011609.shtml

Just do a yahoo search for supertech gear oil and look at the first two or three links that come back and it doesn't look good for supertech..

here's another...
http://www.da.co.shasta.ca.us/includ...r_011609.shtml

However, I don't want to crucify them... it does seem like it may have been an isolated issue... but who knows.

 

There's different grades and types of Supertech - I was referring to the full synthetic 75w140. I dunno if this is the one that is involved in that, but if you aren't comfortable, of course don't use it. I *think* it's $11 something a quart.

I'm suggesting a very thin coat of RTV on both sides of the gasket just to hold it in place while you are installing the cover. Thin layer on the cover, set the gasket on the cover, then thin layer on the housing side of the gasket. I don't think it's a rubber gasket as I remember.

 

Hi guys... well i had the fluid changed today. Ended up going to jiffy lube... was the most convenient... and I bought the modifier from ford for them to put in... they used redline 75w140 full synthetic. The pumped the old fluid out and said they get 90% or better of the old fluid that way...
I drove the truck a bit after and it seemed better... then I took it out on the freeway to a city about 25 miles away. The vibration at 30mph seemed better gettin on the freeway, but at 65 it seemed about the same, maybe a little quieter. Then I just turned right back around and headed home... very little to no vibration at 30mph on the on ramp...on the way home, the 65mph vibration virtually disappeared for about a 15 mile stretch and I had the cruise set dead on 65, even acclerated and coasted through 65 a few times and still was smooth. Then i stopped to get gas, then when i pulled out the 30 mph vibration was back... and also at 65 on the freeway... not quite as bad as it was though...
I've driven the truck almost 70 miles since the change... what are your guys thoughts?

 

Ok... i just got out from under the truck... I was looking at the rear u joint and it is missing half of a snap ring on one of the sides... it couldn't have been gone long, because the groove that it sits in is really shiney where that piec is missing... could that maybe be causing this?

 

Well, I plan on dropping down the driveshaft tomorrow and see if that u joint with the broken snap ring is binding at all... just kind of at my wits end... not sure what else it could be.

 

Typical. Lazy. How can you clean all the crap out of the bottom of the housing that way? Would you pump your engine oil out of the dipstick hole rather than open the drain plug?

At least they used good lube.

 

Glc,
I've really appreciated all your advice and posts on here... but this last one was really unnecessary. If you disagree with how I went about the service that's fine, but to be rude about it. Its obvious that you know alot more about these trucks than your average person, but that doesn't mean you need to belittle the rest of us that don't. You don't know everyone's situation, such as me recovering from a two year back injury, so that it was going to be necessary to have help with changing the fluid at home... there was no one to help. Having the cover dropped at a shop was too expensive so I had to make a decision... this is what I came up with. I feel like my decision was neither typical or lazy... it was the only logical one I could come to. Now if you think I'm still having the same issue because of not dropping the cover and cleaning the whole housing... that's really all that needed to be said.

 

I am referring to Jiffy Lube, not you. Sorry for the misunderstanding, I was NOT calling YOU lazy, I have no love lost for Jiffy Lube. I took mine to a quick lube place (Mobil 1 Lube Express) too, and they dropped the cover and cleaned it out. They told me they could just suck it out, but with limited slip they highly recommended a cover removal and cleaning due to the likelihood of a lot of clutch material being in there. They also recommended a gasket instead of just RTV to make it go quicker, no setup time required before reinstalling the cover.

FYI, fluid, modifier, gasket, and labor was around $125. They used BG fluid.

 

He has a busted up drive shaft, vibration @ 30 mph now and from what I've read, he only supplied "jiffy" with modifier ? Sounds like more than just one problem . Bad/wrong oil in the rear gears will tear the truck apart eventually.

You think Jiffy uses the right stuff ? That's crazy. And the way they did it, why do it at all. It's almost impossible , -if not impossible to suck it dry, there's just to much in the way. Whatever they refilled with is contaminated and so much for the modifier. Bad move lol.

 

Hi guys...
Sorry about the misunderstanding Glc... no hard feelings. So i guess i messed up... that's a kick in the pants. So i guess i pissed away 100 bucks. I had my dad help me today and we pulled the driveshaft... not a bump or ding on it... u joints looked fine... but dad said change them while it was out. Did that... not a bad job, still the same.
Jbrew the 30mph vibration was there before... I think i mentioned it back on the first page of the thread, not my first post, but right near the beginning.
I picked up another bottle of modifier at ford today. I'm gonna have my dad help me change the fluid by dropping the cover tomorrow... maybe there is some crap in there still. I'm not sure what oil i'll use, i'm looking at that supertech at wal-mart its only 11 bucks a bottle, should be ok right, Glc?
I'm about at the end on this truck...i've only had it for about 2 months and I just feel like I threw my money away. I spent all this money on a truck that I thought i could trust to get to work and I've only taken it to work for a week. I'm just about done. I'm thinking if this fluid change doesn't fix it, I'm just going to take it to carmax and get screwed by them. I figure at best I'll lose about 4 grand on the deal but it beats just throwing good money after bad.
Do you guys think its worth doing the diff fluid..."the right way"... or am I just wasting money? I am inclined to think it could be some sticking in the diff, because its not the same all the time. if it were something out of whack mechanically it should always be the same... but what the hell do I know. I really do appreciate your guys help... but I'm just so frustrated right now, just feeling stupid.