Their damn good trucks, you should just go by the book when maintaining. Unfortunately, doing it yourself pays off unless you can afford to have Ford and Ford only do it for you. Ford isn't all that bad on pricing about some things, -other times their a little more. That can be because they use quality or the right stuff vs junk.

Yea, I don't like the part about loosing drive-shaft or universal parts and U-Joints themselves are easy to check , load and no load. These shafts are also balanced, steel shafts have weights spot welded to them, Aluminum shafts are shaved. You can look for missing weights as well if your steel.

But with unknown fluid in their ??? Iduno what to say...Well, actually I do lol.

The title says Vibration at 65mph, guess I missed the 30 if that was posted earlier.

 

Yeah... they can be good trucks. My dad has driven them his whole life. During my life he's had a 1981 with about 300,000 miles on it with two trannys and then a 95 with well over 250,000... he traded that one in, it didn't die and now he's got an 04 f250 and has 130,000 and is running strong.
This truck i got was taken care of...one previous owner and the entire maitainence book was all filled out, probably 90% of the work done at ford and stamped.
So I take it Jbrew, you would do the differential fluid again? I think I'm going to tomorrow... I already have the modifier. Would you shy away from the supertech gear oil? It is a bit cheaper... seems that autozone and kragen only stock Mobil 1 on a regular basis... and thats expensive. So when I take the cover off... should I spray all the gears and everything with brake cleaner? Or just wipe the bottom of the housing and the cover?
I really would like this to be a good truck for me...
Oh and its an aluminum shaft. Looks fine. The u joints were actually pretty easy to change out (though apparently not needed), although i did have my dad who has changed tons of them...

 

Yea, the fluid again. Maybe you better not take anymore chances and go with the Mobil 1, or for that price use Amsoil lol.

I just didn't want to tell you that after you just did it. So it's still vibrating after new U-Joints.

I've seen it @ User Galaxy's link -

http://www.amsoil.com/a/synthetic-gear-oil

 

Brew, I think you missed something:

Nothing wrong with that.

 

Yea, I did ! If they used Redline, that has Modifier in it, if I'm not mistaken.

 

so you both would recommend doing the fluid again. I can scrape up the money to get the mobil 1. I know that the amsoil is supposed to be great, but it just seems that no one around here stocks it regularly. I think I have enough spent on that autozone reward card program they have so i should get some sort of discount pretty soon. I think they give me 20 bucks off when i gather enough points or whatever. So then I'll probably go with the mobil 1 and the ford modifier... nothing wrong with that, right? The mobil 1 has modifier in it too correct? is it possible that adding the ford modifier will put too much in?
Jbrew you aren't saying that jiffy lube used the wrong stuff, are you? You're just thinking that they didn't get enough of the old fluid out so that there is still too much old fluid in there and it dilutes the properties of the new "redline and modifier"... is that what you're saying?
You're thoughts Glc?
I'm just trying to get all the info i can before I dig into this thing...
Thanks so much guys.
And yeah j brew, no difference with the u joints...except they are clean!! LoL
I really hope this works and as far as cleaning out the diff...should i just clean the housing bottom and cover or all the gears as well?
Oh and i just checked the autozone rewards website... I just earned the 20 dollar credit yesterday.

 

I don't think you need to do it again right away.

I think that's what he's saying, and I agree with that. However, I don't think it's THAT critical at this point in time, if it's still vibrating in a couple weeks, you have a driveline issue somewhere else. You may wind up pulling the cover anyway, so hold off for now.

When was the last time you had your tires balanced and checked for roundness?

 

Hi Glc...
I had the tires rebalanced three different times at samsclub...and I had them rotated as well. All three times they did the balance they said they were balanced. Also I had them rotated. The only thing they told me was there was some play in the right front wheel bearing... there was and I changed it out... no play anymore. If it were one of the tires, it would have changed the vibration I would think with changing the position of all the tires. The vibration stayed the same. So I'm inclined to think it isn't a tire/wheel issue. Also when i had it at the shop that pissed me off, the mechanic showed me there was some noise in both the rear bearings, but said that it wasn't too bad and shouldn't be causing the sound I'm hearing... what do you think? So holding off for a couple weeks... do you think that the differential might work itself out, with the new fluid... even if not done 100% at jiffy lube? I'm just concerned about the truck being safe to drive and not doing any further damage...

 

Also... forgot to say... since the tire rotation didn't change where the vibration was coming from... i didn't think checking the tires for round or roadforce balancing would make a difference.

 

I don't trust Jiffy Lube, did you give them the Redline ? I still can't find it. I read that you gave them the modifier. Did you see your empty bottles of Redline ? I sure as hell wouldn't believe their word. I recall a user here reporting all the crap they try to get away with and that he quit the place because of it.

There's two types of wheel balancing static and a full balance. Static only has weights on the inside of the rims. Full balance has weights on both sides of the rims. Full balance is better.

 

No I never saw the bottles of redline... that is just what was written on the ticket, and what the guy told me. I didn't bring in the oil, they supplied it and that is what they said they used, i did bring the modifier.

I believe that samsclub full balances the tires... there is weights on the inside and outside of the rims. But I know it wasn't roadforce balanced where they balance them under a load. But like I said i don't think its tires because the rotation didn't change anything.

Not sure if I said before, but i had a bad experience with jiffy lube about 5 years ago and have boycotted them since... it was minor they got oil on the armrest and floor of my (almost new) car... and I was told that they work this oil and things like this happen... pissed me off... didn't offer to have the stuff cleaned up or anything, so hadnt been to a jiffy lube in years. My dad said he liked these guys... so i decided to give them a shot.
I'm wondering if they popped the plug maybe and saw that the fluid looked good and just topped it off... who knows. I should have asked to see the oil bottles. I know there is more oil in it now than when I took it in. the fluid before I took it in was 1/4 inch below the fill hole, now it barely dribbles out... so they added some... maybe just the modifier...
Now I'm feeling dumber than before...

 

Did they write the proper weight on the receipt ? As good as Redline is, it's won't do you much good if they didn't use the proper weight. I just find it hard to believe they used the right stuff. If they did that's great, but now you have new u-joints and still have the problem after driving 70 miles +.

No way, they ripped yuh IMO. Look inside the drivers door, does it say "H9" under trans on your door jam sticker/plate ?

 

yeah shows the right weight on the reciept and everything... but I think you might be right about getting screwed by jiffy lube. The trans says "E" on the door. Well it feels like I'm back to doing the fluid again, wouldn't you guys think? That really pisses me off. I work way too damn hard for my money to get it stolen by some half-*ssed crooks.

 

What does it say next to trans, that's the type of rear end you have. Should say H9. E = E4OD which is the heavy duty. Yea, it's under axle -

 

mine says "19"
Just looked up the code and it says that it isn't limted slip... I didn't even know they made them without the limited slip. Hey on yours with the H 9 code... is there a tag on the differential that says it needs the modifier? Mine has a tag that says 75w140 full synthetic and another with a code that said something like s 918 a. Is it weird to have this axle? Will putting the modifier in there hurt anything?
Just looked at my dad's f250 and it has c1... limited slip... i would think that the bigger trucks would be more likely to have the coventional differential.

So with this info... does this start us back at square one... or could it still be spent diff fluid.