Stock Fender Flare Issue
#1
Stock Fender Flare Issue
2000 F150 XLT 4x4
Today I noticed that the front right fender flare had somehow warped and pulled away from the fender. Any suggestions as to how to correct this? Has this happened to any of y'all before? I know it's not really a critical issue, but it's still annoying. See pictures below.
Today I noticed that the front right fender flare had somehow warped and pulled away from the fender. Any suggestions as to how to correct this? Has this happened to any of y'all before? I know it's not really a critical issue, but it's still annoying. See pictures below.
#2
#3
You wont know if fastener broke, or the spot for the fastener to slide into broke or the hole in your fender started to rott out which I doubt until you pull the flare off. Very easliy done. Im assuming you have already tried pushing the flare back into the fender.
Last edited by ratherBstroked; 03-26-2013 at 09:08 PM.
#4
They don't break usually. The tabs can unsnap just from waxing or washing your vehicle. But, it takes a little bit getting them back into place without removing the entire flare. A "push" isn't enough from my experience lol. First he needs to see if it is indeed a snap. The damn flares are plastic and they DO warp. You can fix that as well.
#5
I assumed (wrong of me to do so) that he would have tried to push it back in. Wouldnt you have tried to push it back in as a common thing to do? I know you have more knowledge than me with these particular trucks but I bought my first truck which was a 2000 f 150 back in 03, then a 97 the following year and now another 97 and I have never seen or heard of a flare popping out when when washing or waxing but then again my trucks dont see much washing and waxing anymore. OP, look down through the gap you have between the flare and your fender and see if you can see the green push pin. If you can see it then press in on that location with both of your thumbs and see if it catches. Just trying to help.
#6
Contradicting my first post didn't help a bit IMO. I wouldn't do that to someone trying to help in the first place.
#7
[QUOTE=jbrew;4969597]Why , he didn't post that. I wouldn't have posted what I did, if THAT was so assuming.QUOTE]
I posted 4 minutes after you and thought I was the first reply soo your first post meant nothing to me. I think that the detail helped. Maybe he could just go out and do it instead of coming back in and waiting for your reply if he asked for more detail.
Whatever man, I dont even know why I am still replying. Sorry dumpster dave for firing up your thread. Good luck man, Im sure you'll figure it out.
I posted 4 minutes after you and thought I was the first reply soo your first post meant nothing to me. I think that the detail helped. Maybe he could just go out and do it instead of coming back in and waiting for your reply if he asked for more detail.
Whatever man, I dont even know why I am still replying. Sorry dumpster dave for firing up your thread. Good luck man, Im sure you'll figure it out.
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#8
#9
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Doing this with flare removed is easier and safer as you apply heat to the inside of the flare(stages as well), while clamped against a straight edge.
#10
Just keep in mind, it doesn't require a whole lot of heat. The flare itself can take quite a bit, but paint can not. The heat guns I use can melt solder and sweat plumbing fittings together. I'm just saying, depending on the one you might be using, they can heat it up very fast. A hair dryer may be tried first and may be enough to get it back in shape.
#12
[QUOTE=ratherBstroked;4969619] Your alright, -it was my fault anyway. Hate when that happens. Regardless, I apologize.
#13