P0135 & P0155 codes
#1
#2
What gives is the fuse
likely blew again because there is a short to ground or an open in the harness at some point.
Get under and take a look for an exhaust burn-through or rub-through.
It could also be an open or a cross.
The codes are one for each bank so they are both in trouble.
If it was fuse 23, you should get a boat load of codes because that fuse feeds a lot of functions.
Good luck.
likely blew again because there is a short to ground or an open in the harness at some point.
Get under and take a look for an exhaust burn-through or rub-through.
It could also be an open or a cross.
The codes are one for each bank so they are both in trouble.
If it was fuse 23, you should get a boat load of codes because that fuse feeds a lot of functions.
Good luck.
#4
Fuse 19 had nothing to do with the Ox sensors.
So you lucked out on that.
The codes are telling you the OX sensors 'heater circuits' are in trouble.
These heaters shorten the time it takes the motor to settle back to normal idle from a cold start and keeps them hot for the averge running time and loads.
So you lucked out on that.
The codes are telling you the OX sensors 'heater circuits' are in trouble.
These heaters shorten the time it takes the motor to settle back to normal idle from a cold start and keeps them hot for the averge running time and loads.
#5
Fuse 19 had nothing to do with the Ox sensors.
So you lucked out on that.
The codes are telling you the OX sensors 'heater circuits' are in trouble.
These heaters shorten the time it takes the motor to settle back to normal idle from a cold start and keeps them hot for the averge running time and loads.
So you lucked out on that.
The codes are telling you the OX sensors 'heater circuits' are in trouble.
These heaters shorten the time it takes the motor to settle back to normal idle from a cold start and keeps them hot for the averge running time and loads.
#6
According to my 2003 manual, fuse #19 in the PDB is for right stop/turn bulb on the trailer plug, fuse #19 in the in-cab box is not used.
Bluegrass mentioned fuse #23, that's in the PDB, and it's for HEGO sensors and automatic transmission. That's the only fuse that I see having to do with the sensors, but I don't have a detailed wiring diagram, I'm just going by the description in the manual.
Don't you have an owner's manual? If not, download it.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/
Bluegrass mentioned fuse #23, that's in the PDB, and it's for HEGO sensors and automatic transmission. That's the only fuse that I see having to do with the sensors, but I don't have a detailed wiring diagram, I'm just going by the description in the manual.
Don't you have an owner's manual? If not, download it.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/
#7
According to my 2003 manual, fuse #19 in the PDB is for right stop/turn bulb on the trailer plug, fuse #19 in the in-cab box is not used.
Bluegrass mentioned fuse #23, that's in the PDB, and it's for HEGO sensors and automatic transmission. That's the only fuse that I see having to do with the sensors, but I don't have a detailed wiring diagram, I'm just going by the description in the manual.
Don't you have an owner's manual? If not, download it.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/
Bluegrass mentioned fuse #23, that's in the PDB, and it's for HEGO sensors and automatic transmission. That's the only fuse that I see having to do with the sensors, but I don't have a detailed wiring diagram, I'm just going by the description in the manual.
Don't you have an owner's manual? If not, download it.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/
Codes are still showing...I did fail to mention I do have code P0403 as well but didn't think it had anything to do with both codes mentioned above.
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#8
#9
Guess I will be doing some wire harness probing. Luck is what I need
#10
#11
#12
Well, at lease I changed to hard one (passenger side) I have better access to the one on the drivers side.
#14
That sounds like a short for sure. If they came back right away. That means the monitor attempted to run but was stopped right away. Those heaters fire up as soon as you hit the key. When in doubt, take a picture first, if that helps lol, -then keep pulling fuses. Ford changed fuse locations/wiring year to year. So pay attention to that guy with the 02. What was his name ? Bluegrass, that's right. . GLC can't be too far off, but as much as Ford moved everything around per model year and with engine differences, you can't be sure unless you have the manual. There really isn't a general wiring diagram form these trucks. It's one very good reason for having your owners manual in the GLOVE BOX at all times. It's all in there..
#15
I think your missing an important point on this.
The problem is not a short but an 'open'.
If it was a short, you would have blown fuse 23 and had all kinds of codes from it.
All you needed to do was test the sensors with a low cost meter for being open and verify the missing voltage and you would have found them good for their heater continuity and not have the change them until later, if you still wanted to after finding the open fault.
Never test the 'sensor' leads with even an ohm meter, only the heater leads.
Of course the PCM will see the open right away because it looks at the current draw.
These sensors are part of the system at all times.
The fact that both are open tells me the harness is cut or worn open at some common point between the fire wall, down the pass side of the motor back to the sensors.
In this harness is the transmission control, the EVAP and neutral control leads.
Where the leads break out of the harness separate; from that point on is likely to be the trouble area.
Check for voltage to the rear sensors and see if it's there.
That will further narrow the area down.
Was there any other work done under the truck?
Good luck.
The problem is not a short but an 'open'.
If it was a short, you would have blown fuse 23 and had all kinds of codes from it.
All you needed to do was test the sensors with a low cost meter for being open and verify the missing voltage and you would have found them good for their heater continuity and not have the change them until later, if you still wanted to after finding the open fault.
Never test the 'sensor' leads with even an ohm meter, only the heater leads.
Of course the PCM will see the open right away because it looks at the current draw.
These sensors are part of the system at all times.
The fact that both are open tells me the harness is cut or worn open at some common point between the fire wall, down the pass side of the motor back to the sensors.
In this harness is the transmission control, the EVAP and neutral control leads.
Where the leads break out of the harness separate; from that point on is likely to be the trouble area.
Check for voltage to the rear sensors and see if it's there.
That will further narrow the area down.
Was there any other work done under the truck?
Good luck.