Interesting.... the SS rusted?? How can that be? I've seen SS corrode over a period, but usually it was in an extremely salty climate.

 

I wondered myself. I also wondered if I got what I payed for. I just know I wasn't happy with my Gibson.

 

I'll have a complete write up once I'm done. I'm very close, but not quite there yet. Still have some very hard to reach bolts on the passenger side, and I've been in contact with Stage8 and have locking hardware on the way (I bought my locking header bolts a LONG time ago, and they now ship with the correct locking retainers which I don't have -- so they're sending me those and I ordered locking collector bolts) so that almost all hardware holding on the headers is locking against itself so they'll never loosen up and I'll never have to retighten them.

Yes, lifting the engine IS required, unless you get more extreme and remove the engine or raise the body...in effect it is impossible to reach a lot on the passenger side unless you raise the engine to give you room.

I would very well think twice about this install. I've always been one to challenge myself and say "bah, I can do it" even to the "it's a PITA to install" comments. Well, this one proved me wrong...this is one hell of a nightmare-ish install hands down. So far, I've unbolted my skidplace, unbolted my steering rack, unbolted and dropped my front diff a little, and unbolted the passenger side engine mount and jacked up the engine. Not for the faint of heart.

I had JBAs on my Ranger, and they never developed a leak, faded in color (they were silver ceramic coated, these new ones for my 150 are titanium ceramic coated), or showed any other signs of degredation. There is no way around the pain of the install, there is just not any room on the passenger side to install headers without creating more room (i.e. raising the engine). As a side note, those new ratcheting closed box wrenches are a BLESSING!!! They worked major wonders on the install.

My locking hardware should be here by this weekend so I'll get it all finished up as soon I get that and let you know my impressions.

 

Let's put it this way, I did the install completely alone, with almost no power tools (used an impact wrench to remove the passenger side motor mount nut), everything else was hand wrenching and crawling around underneath my truck without a creeper. It can be done, but it's a major PITA...if you're that hardcore about headers and are willing to spend the $, let some monkey put them on for you. I however, wanted headers VERY much after having them on my Ranger but was not willing to part with the install cost out of my pocket too. Also helped to have my dad's F150 to drive in the meantime.

 

I figured they would be a major PITA like the Stang... That sucks! I guess this is a mod I can write off the list...

 

MOST stainless exhaust tubing will turn brown very fast, unless you get a very high grade stainless, and even then whats the point. most factory exhaust systems are the same stainless, always turns brown, RARELY actually rusts.

 

Raising the motor sounds like a good idea, that would make it a breeze man. Otherwise if you can get truck on a lift raise it up and install headers from underneath truck. Actually letting some monkey do it as you stated would really be a good idea.

 

Lifting it makes it easier, but you only have so much room you can lift up the engine before you put too much stress on it or start crushing stuff or risking pulling things out. I had mine lifted pretty damn good...but that combined with the design of the header, you still don't have enough room to make some of the bolts even remotely easy to reinstall. Basically, the upper shock mount cage is the thing that is in the way on both sides from preventing this being a very easy install when you lift up the engine. Too bad the shock mount cages are welded to the frame rail.

 

My install took over 12hrs. If the person above thinks he can lay down with a wrench and get it done, he's dreaming. I had to cut a few studs, use bolts, raise the drivers side of the engine, cuss, scream, more cussing. PIA is an understatement. Ford Racing is alot cheaper then JBA but it's not CARB approved. The instructions said 4-6hrs. 4wheel parts charges 8hrs. with three guys we did it in 12hrs. It did improve the response. I'd say 15hp, was hoping for 30hp. Also my dual Magnaflow helped as well.

 

I hope you're not talking about me...

 

That's why it's called "stainless" steel. Note that it's not called "rustless" steel.

 

Did you finish yet?? Excited to see if it's worth it!

 

Nope, I still don't have the correct locking retainers for my Stage8 bolts, I'm not even sure they make them long enough (in process of calling now).

Driver side is done, except for half the locks, and passenger side is where I'm having major problems. Taking a half day today and I AM going to get it fully bolted up this weekend, still will have to wait for locking retainers if they make them. I haven't been working on it too much though so it's not a fair representation of the install time, however overall and alone, it's much more than they suggested as an install time unless you're super hardcore AND the hulk I want it finished more than you, believe me

 

Our prayers are with you and your family man.

 

I worked with steel for several years, and some stainless steel will rust. I was very surprised when I learned that. True "stainless" steel is quite expensive, so if the price seems too good to be true.... you know the rest.