2004 - 2008 F-150

Fabtech Install Help

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  #61  
Old 03-26-2006 | 08:17 PM
BalogUK's Avatar
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oh ok that explains that one, well heres kickass fx4's:

his cv angles look pretty similar to yours- yours may be a bit steep, but could that be due to your rear end sitting low?
 
  #62  
Old 03-26-2006 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by BalogUK
oh ok that explains that one, well heres kickass fx4's:

his cv angles look pretty similar to yours- yours may be a bit steep, but could that be due to your rear end sitting low?
Yeah, I assume when there is proportionate weight on the front it will lower a little. Thanks Balog

Here is Sal's, so it's about the same:
 

Last edited by Josiah; 03-26-2006 at 08:32 PM.
  #63  
Old 03-26-2006 | 08:37 PM
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Damn Josiah, that really sucks about the wheel size. I think you're going to just have to wait for the new ones to come. One thing I would insist is that they ship you the new wheels immediately, instead of them waiting to get the ones you have back before they ship the new ones.

I have to run out the door right now, my wife and I go over some friends house on Sunday night for the guys to do whatever and the girls watch Desperate Housewives.

I wish I lived closer, I'd come give you a hand... it sounds like that lift and all the problems is whooping your a$$.

Anyways, I will put some thought into what that sound could be, but those CV angles do look a little high to me.

Good luck!
 
  #64  
Old 03-26-2006 | 09:16 PM
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Damn that really sucks about the wheels. Discount Tire is normally really good too. Do you have the Dirt Logics cranked up at all? The CV axles don't look THAT bad. Anyways, isn't the Fabtech kit just come with a new block for the rear? If so you should be able to get the rear done in no time!
 
  #65  
Old 03-26-2006 | 09:49 PM
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Holy whips and chains batman! That is HUGE now!

Looks killer Josiah! Now, if you can get that paint in better shape, you'll be a contender for Truck of the Month at f150online.com!
 
  #66  
Old 03-26-2006 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RockPick
Holy whips and chains batman! That is HUGE now!

Looks killer Josiah! Now, if you can get that paint in better shape, you'll be a contender for Truck of the Month at f150online.com!
Whats wrong with the paint?

In fact, I am having it detailed inside, outside, underbody and engine for about $200 from a reputable detailer. I've seen him wetsand a few of my scratches and it looked like brand new, underneath those trailscars is a show quality shine Hopefully by then you enter me for TOTM (I honestly did not know this existed, have a link?).
 

Last edited by Josiah; 03-26-2006 at 10:08 PM.
  #67  
Old 03-26-2006 | 10:32 PM
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It doesn't exist.... yet.

When it does, it's going to be exclusive to the 04+ forum.
 
  #68  
Old 03-26-2006 | 11:11 PM
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Josiah, First things first..Your Truck is gonna look K I C K A S S !

Man, I am sorry, I always show up late when you have questions. Did you get the Brake line issue fixed? If your Truck is an 04, then the brakes lines are not an issue, IF your truck is 05 After Dec 04 Build, then you need longer brake lines since you cannot 'pull' the lines down like the 04s. The Part number for the brakes lines are from 4 Wheel Parts, Rancho but they are made by Russell.

Brake Line P/Ns:
RAN RS170104
RAN RS170105

About the loud POP you heard, I heard the same thing when I first did mine, I thought it was one of the front coil springs but still do not know to this day. I hear it every now and again. Anyways, I did not balance my front driveshaft only because Rancho did not say to do so in their instructions. I *think* you will be ok if you dont. If there is a driveshaft place in town, go and have it done. I know Pro comp doesnt call for it either, BUT if you start to get a vibe at high speeds, ' Get R Done'. I DID however install the Fabtech Drive Shaft spacer for the rear because I did get a vibe at highway speeds, that cleared it right up. You should have one in your kit, make sure you install it. BTW, the install for the rear should be a breeze.

I am sorry you are so frustrated with your install, once you get over all these problems you will be glad you did it yourself. People will complement you (believe me, especially after you are done with yours) and ask you 'Who Lifted It' and you can proudly tell them you did. Also, should any problems ever arise, you have a better understanding of how things work in the front

If you need anything else, call me, I left my cell in one of the emails i sent to you. if not, hit me and i will give it to you again. I check back later tonight, and again tomorrow.

GOOD LUCK!

-Sal
 
  #69  
Old 03-27-2006 | 12:27 AM
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Josiah,

Like i said over on FTW.... Connect those vac hose lines and im pretty sure your popping sounds and vibration will go away. Your hubs are locked in 4x4 because those vac lines are not connect. This is causing your vibration, as your front driveshaft isnt key/rebalanced. I had a vibration with my truck (When in 4x4) untell i have my driveshaft taken care of.
 
  #70  
Old 03-27-2006 | 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Sal FX4
Josiah, First things first..Your Truck is gonna look K I C K A S S !

Man, I am sorry, I always show up late when you have questions. Did you get the Brake line issue fixed? If your Truck is an 04, then the brakes lines are not an issue, IF your truck is 05 After Dec 04 Build, then you need longer brake lines since you cannot 'pull' the lines down like the 04s. The Part number for the brakes lines are from 4 Wheel Parts, Rancho but they are made by Russell.

Brake Line P/Ns:
RAN RS170104
RAN RS170105

About the loud POP you heard, I heard the same thing when I first did mine, I thought it was one of the front coil springs but still do not know to this day. I hear it every now and again. Anyways, I did not balance my front driveshaft only because Rancho did not say to do so in their instructions. I *think* you will be ok if you dont. If there is a driveshaft place in town, go and have it done. I know Pro comp doesnt call for it either, BUT if you start to get a vibe at high speeds, ' Get R Done'. I DID however install the Fabtech Drive Shaft spacer for the rear because I did get a vibe at highway speeds, that cleared it right up. You should have one in your kit, make sure you install it. BTW, the install for the rear should be a breeze.

I am sorry you are so frustrated with your install, once you get over all these problems you will be glad you did it yourself. People will complement you (believe me, especially after you are done with yours) and ask you 'Who Lifted It' and you can proudly tell them you did. Also, should any problems ever arise, you have a better understanding of how things work in the front

If you need anything else, call me, I left my cell in one of the emails i sent to you. if not, hit me and i will give it to you again. I check back later tonight, and again tomorrow.

GOOD LUCK!

-Sal
Sal, bout time you showed up I am very close to getting done (I unbolted the rear driveshaft at the rear differential and I can't get it off still), maybe it's because I tightened the u-bolts on one side of the rear axle already but I can't see that causing the rear driveshaft to be stuck on there. I did get the brakeline issue temporarily fixed, I bent the steel brakelines (not sure if that was a good idea) but I did it in curves so as not to "crimp" the lines. Back to the driveshaft, I'm installing the driveshaft spacer, the reason I unbolted the rear joints of the driveshaft, I banged the hell out of it to no avail. About the pride thing, I totally agree. I think people underestimate the difficulty (at least I did) but I plan to have a license plate frame that reads, "Real men don't visit Les Schwabb, they lift it themselves." Obviously that doesn't have a good ring to it but I want to find a saying that makes me feel proud to have it lifted, and hopefully invoke conversation if someone reads it. Take care Sal, be sure to check up on the pics.

Thanks a lot bushtree, you're a smart cookie. I replied on FTW, don't forget to check.
 
  #71  
Old 03-27-2006 | 11:40 AM
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From: New Port Richey, FL

Any luck with Discount Tire?? You really should wake up earlier.
 
  #72  
Old 03-27-2006 | 12:16 PM
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From: INDY BABY!
Josiah,

Buddy, I wish you the best of luck today with Discount Tire. Unfortunately (or fortunately for me, unfortunately for you) we didn't have the same outcome on our installs this weekend. I know everyone has said, it will be worth it in the end, but having just done it, they are right you will have an ear to ear grin like a little kid. I hope your rear install went better. I would also call ProComp and give them a piece of my mind on the whole brake line issue. Rancho, already had this figured out and included the brake lines.

Good Luck!

OH, there are ways to overnight anything, for your information regarding your tires. We do it ALL THE TIME.
 
  #73  
Old 03-27-2006 | 12:38 PM
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To Remove the rear driveshaft, make sure the rear wheels are off the gorund and the rear e-brake is NOT engaged. Put the Tanny in Neutral and tap the driveshaft or you can use a flat head and wedge it between the drive shaft and the rear diff.

Like bushtree said, if the vaccum lines are disconnected you ARE in 4 wheel drive, don't drive like that too much on pavement.

 
  #74  
Old 03-27-2006 | 12:57 PM
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From: In a van down by the river
Originally Posted by RockPick
Holy whips and chains batman! That is HUGE now!

Looks killer Josiah! Now, if you can get that paint in better shape, you'll be a contender for Truck of the Month at f150online.com!
Truck of the Month huh? Dang you Josiah for doing this lift on the same weekend I finish my LS430 HID retrofit! Gosh darn-it, you guys need to check out my Awesome HID retrofit thread and give some gosh darn feedback and learn about HID!

Josiah, the lift looks good so far, good luck with straightening out the tire problem, that really bites.

Duke
 
  #75  
Old 03-27-2006 | 01:02 PM
Josiah's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Sal FX4
To Remove the rear driveshaft, make sure the rear wheels are off the gorund and the rear e-brake is NOT engaged. Put the Tanny in Neutral and tap the driveshaft or you can use a flat head and wedge it between the drive shaft and the rear diff.

Like bushtree said, if the vaccum lines are disconnected you ARE in 4 wheel drive, don't drive like that too much on pavement.

Sal, thanks again. I did not have it in Neutral (although I did when I needed to turn the driveshaft to access the bolts on other side), I made sure the e-brake was off and the tires are off the ground. Right now the only thing remaining on the lift is the driveshaft spacer, 2 u-bolts and those vacuum hoses for the front hubs, I was told last night I can stretch those by removing excess wrap somewhere, I'll keep you informed as that would make things much easier. The back was cake, but the god d$@* bolts are locked on there somewhere just north of 150ft lbs/tq (torque wrench clicked and maxed out). The entire install went this way because all I have is hand tools, with the exception of a drill and cutting wheel.

Thanks Thrill, hopefully they will do the overnight shipping. I have yet to call them but will do so soon and will definitely post about it. My ride to college is coming soon so I can't stay on too late.

Tardman, you make my day
 


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