I started to install my add a leaf (long style) so I had to bend the clips to fit the new leaf

Was wondering if the clip on the 2004+ f150 come of or do you just have to bend them back. And if so how did you guys bend them back in place

If you removed the OEM clips could someone explain to me how to do that?
(I did recieve new clips but if i can't take of the onld one i can't use them)


Thanks in advance

 

The tech that installed my aal cut the clips off at the top of the stack with a grinder. So basicly the clips run up the sides of the leaf pack but do not return over the top.

 

I just got off the phone with a guy from www.generalspringkc.com and he told me that you could use the stock clips if you wanted. I just ordered a set of AAL and they should be hear beginning of next week

 

You'll bend the old ones out with a pipe wrench and to get them back up you'll have to heat them up (the bottom section of clip, not entire clip) with a torch and then hit them up with a hammer. Do this after the ubolts are on otherwise the springs will move around on you. To remove the old clips you'll have to either cut the rivet off with a grinder or a cutting torch, knock the clip off and there will still be a little part of the rivet left so grind that down flush with the spring and repaint to avoid rusting because it will be bare metal there. Note: You'll only need to bend one side of the clip out, not both. If you're still not sure, feel free to call me 888-829-0619 - Joe

 

When I installed my Skyjacker AAL, I didn't even touch those clips. Left them be, and I've never had a problem. I've even checked them and they haven't moved, and even if they do it won't be far due to the dual pin system. Instructions never said anything about using the clips.

 

Completely different add a leafs...yours is the short fat one that goes between the factory overload and spring stack while his is the long add a leaf which will be the new second leaf. Skyjacker designs theirs this way because it's much easier to install but won't be near the ride quality and endurance as a longer add a leaf. Can't tell you how many times I've had to replace those short fat ones because they tend to break. The longer ones would be what you'd get if you actually took your truck into a spring shop and had them build.

 

hmfic,

They have the pro comp kits. That kit has a 2.5" light duty long leaf for lift and NO hardware...

This leaf is much weaker in comparison to skyjacker kit.

The same money for the skyjacker, like you and I have, is 3" and is shorter. It is made from thicker U.S. forged steel and is a heaver duty leaf. Plus it comes with new heavy duty u bolts and pin hardware. This skyjacker kit will provide increased payload and strength over the pro comp leaf. Although the pro comp may provide a softer ride it will fall short on spring flex and travel while under off road conditions.

 

It will offer more payload but will not flex near as well as a full sized add a leaf. The flatter, longer the springs the more flex you're going to get. The short fat leaf will prevent flex due to the gauge and arch. Not sure where you heard this from but it's wrong. How could a thicker gauge possibly give you better flex when it's designed for strength? The longer leaf will always win in a battle of flex, it's just a little more work to put them in. Look at Donahoe's super duty springs. They have 12 leaves for a 4" arch. I can get a Super Duty up 4" with an add a leaf but it's not gonna flex even close to the 12 leaf. Superlift and Donahoe are both the same way. Many leaves with thin gauges.

 

Ahh, Thanks.
As far as the ride goes with the SJ AAL goes, I don't think the ride is stiff or harsh at all. It was rough from the factory and it still is, didn't notice much of a change.

 

Do you homework on skyjacker add a leafs...

The secret to the strength and flexibility of Skyjacker Add-A-Leaf Springs is their shot-peening treatment—a process that compresses the steel surface with heavy steel shot. The leaf stays strong yet flexible, which is ideal for smooth driving and rear-end strength.
This shotpeening compresses the surface of the steel thereby increasing the tensile strength of the leaf. Without this shotpeening procedure, the maximum wheel travel and ride quality could not be achieved without sacrificing the life of the leaf.
The Skyjacker Heavy-Duty Add-A-Leafs units are shorter and are designed for extra payload capacity but still stay flexible do to this process.

 

lol...you're one of those guys.

The shot peening process only strengthens the spring so it doesn't wear out. It doesn't cause any greater flex it just prevents the spring from wearing down and sagging. This is simple, the longer, thinner leaves will flex more than the short, fat leaves. Yours may keep the arch longer but that's the extent of it. I own a spring shop and if I installed short, fat leaves and tried to sell the shot peening thing I would be out of business in a very short time. Wish I could, it would make my job a lot easier than having to remove all of the leaves to make it right for maximum strength plus flex. BTW...shot peening one spring really isn't gonna do a whole lot. The other mfgs springs are heat treated which has the same result without a bunch of dimples in your spring...Too funny

 

 

Please explain this comment.



I was simply giving you an answer to your question.... that info came directly from Skyjacker.

 

Sorry, I didn't mean for that to be insulting.

I own a spring shop and all day between add a leafs, lift kits, tires, wheels I always get so many different people saying so many different things. It's my job to know about leaf springs, coil springs and especially add a leafs and sometimes peeps come in with having heard "this or that" that it gets old when I install around 5-6 add a leafs a day. Our steel is heat treated to prevent from wearing while some other places shot peen. It's a preference, I was just telling you and others the longer, thinner leaves will always flex better than shorter, fatter leaves. Reread my previous post and it did sound bad. I apologize for that, just don't like it when someone tells me something about springs I've heard a hundred times before when I know what does what because it's my job to.

 

Anyways back to the original subject the clamps

KansasJoe : you said to just bend over one side of the clamp. I tried it yesterday and it don't think it will work cause the width of the clamp will not hold another spring (or maybe that’s just on my truck) I'm having a hell of a time putting the springs back in place. Got one side done it looks nice.

Would it be a good idea to put more then just the OEM clamps on the spring or will that have a negative effect?