*** Soft Brake Pedal Resolved ***
#301
Another satisfied customer!
...backed the bolt out about a 1/4 turn and took it for a test ride. I noticed some difference, but need to go another 1/4 turn, I think. I'm going to wait until I put new drilled/slotted rotors & ceramic pads all around on Friday before I make another adjustment. I might not need too... Also, I noticed that when I'm breaking now, everything seems much tighter. I hate that sloppy stuttering/loose breaking and steering feeling. FYI, my break pedal still goes to the floor if I gently push on it while in park....
Thanks rms8, you've taken some ridiculous criticisms for posting this fix, and you've handled it well...
Thanks rms8, you've taken some ridiculous criticisms for posting this fix, and you've handled it well...
Last edited by fatboy0103@cox.; 07-14-2010 at 12:49 PM. Reason: typos
#302
I don't think mine needs this ...
... as double pumping the pedal in rapid succession like I used to do on the Subaru to get a hard pedal does nothing on this '07 except cause the truck to jerk violantly twice in rapid succession with the two brake applications.
But .... I have been meaning to try turning the rod end 1/4 turn on the end of the rod from booster to MC on my '01 Mercury GM for several years now (but which I never think of until we are actually in it and going someplace) .... which has always stopped really well (even pulling 1.12 G on the VC-3000) .... but a quick double pump on it will harden the pedal just a hair, though ain't no way she's stopping faster .... it'll just let me get those brakes applied a millisecond quicker.
... as double pumping the pedal in rapid succession like I used to do on the Subaru to get a hard pedal does nothing on this '07 except cause the truck to jerk violantly twice in rapid succession with the two brake applications.
But .... I have been meaning to try turning the rod end 1/4 turn on the end of the rod from booster to MC on my '01 Mercury GM for several years now (but which I never think of until we are actually in it and going someplace) .... which has always stopped really well (even pulling 1.12 G on the VC-3000) .... but a quick double pump on it will harden the pedal just a hair, though ain't no way she's stopping faster .... it'll just let me get those brakes applied a millisecond quicker.
#303
...backed the bolt out about a 1/4 turn and took it for a test ride. I noticed some difference, but need to go another 1/4 turn, I think. I'm going to wait until I put new drilled/slotted rotors & ceramic pads all around on Friday before I make another adjustment. I might not need too... Also, I noticed that when I'm breaking now, everything seems much tighter. I hate that sloppy stuttering/loose breaking and steering feeling. FYI, my break pedal still goes to the floor if I gently push on it while in park....
Thanks rms8, you've taken some ridiculous criticisms for posting this fix, and you've handled it well...
Thanks rms8, you've taken some ridiculous criticisms for posting this fix, and you've handled it well...
#304
Another Happy Ford Owner
This is a 20 minute (if that) adjustment that can fix years of disappointment in a crappy pedal.
1: shut truck off, pop hood
2: pump brake pedal until it gets firm to release vacuum
3: remove two 13mm nuts holding master cylinder to booster, swing master cylinder out of the way to make some room
4: from under hood, you'll see the black nut inside booster
5: while holding threads behind black nut with needle nose pliers, turn black nut with 7mm socket a teeeeeny-weeeeny bit. I turned mine MORE than a 1/4, but LESS THAN 1/2 a turn.
6: put everything back together, make sure brakes are not dragging and enjoy your "new" brake pedal, the way it should've left the factory!
1: shut truck off, pop hood
2: pump brake pedal until it gets firm to release vacuum
3: remove two 13mm nuts holding master cylinder to booster, swing master cylinder out of the way to make some room
4: from under hood, you'll see the black nut inside booster
5: while holding threads behind black nut with needle nose pliers, turn black nut with 7mm socket a teeeeeny-weeeeny bit. I turned mine MORE than a 1/4, but LESS THAN 1/2 a turn.
6: put everything back together, make sure brakes are not dragging and enjoy your "new" brake pedal, the way it should've left the factory!
Thanks again for the great post. Tomorrow I attempt to re-charge the A/C in in a 99 Expedition.
#305
I have had this problem since I bought the truck brand new off the lot in 2004. I had to turn mine a full turn (after starting at half a turn). I have towed a boat 40 miles with no stopping problems and no heat build up on the front brakes.
Thanks again for the great post. Tomorrow I attempt to re-charge the A/C in in a 99 Expedition.
Thanks again for the great post. Tomorrow I attempt to re-charge the A/C in in a 99 Expedition.
Very pleased that you have joined the ever growing list of owners who have finally cured that double-pump pedal issue !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#306
Whew!! Finally got done reading this entire thread!
First off, thank you to rms8 and all who have contributed to this thread, and to Bluejay (I think) for making this a sticky. I can't state enough how much this site rocks . Only reason I read this is because I had to do a little brake work to the truck yesterday, not related to the soft pedal issue though I've always had it, but just because it was long over due, just wish I had read this yesterday . Today I am going to do this mod and take care of it, like I said, the truck has always suffered the soft pedal issue like a lot of others on here, it just has never really bothered me that much. I just wanted to address the comments made by Fireman Dave and mkosu04 (who I noticed had abandoned this thread years ago). Though I don't dispute their knowledge and engineering abilities, unless I am wrong, they ARE engineers Not mechanics,(and I am neither of the 2 so I may be speaking out my ars), they are guys trained to design and test certain products to be put out on the consumer market and are by no means perfect, as with the products they design. They come on here and spout their information as if though it is the do all and be all of everything. Mechanics however are the poor unfortunate souls given the task of working on and fixing said products. To me, ability and real world experience account for 2/3rds knowledge of just about anything. Anything that has been created, designed or invented through out history has either been done through trial and error or by accident. Remember the 2 piece spark plug? Well, it was an engineer or engineers that came up with that f'ed up design! Being that I am in the construction trade, I almost, and I stress almost, equate engineers to architects (who I constantly butt heads with), they sit behind their desks and create designs that look real good on paper, and most in my experience don't have any time out in the "field" making their designs work. Some engineers do however have to test their products before getting them out to market. My point is, to those of you that read this entire thread, and you really should before trying this fix (aqua-holic, no offense), I would not take what Dave and mkosu04 has posted to heart. I'm sure they are only really trying to help, but I think they are scaring people more than anything else from actually fixing what is obviously fixable. Again, I don't mean to offend any engineers (or architects) but we all can make mistakes, nobody is perfect. Sorry to highjack the thread and a big thank you, thank you, thank you Will post my results after the "fix"
edit: I did forget to mention that this is of course only my opinion, and not fact!
edit: I did forget to mention that this is of course only my opinion, and not fact!
Last edited by mitch150; 08-09-2010 at 10:05 AM.
#307
I just bought an 08 f150 with 40,000 miles the dealership turned the rotors and installed new pads.Im wondering if i should go the route of bleeding before attempting this.I too know the "double pump" ..I would assume they would bleed the brakes.I do like this fix as it's free and i too know the fun of dealing with the dealership.My truck is on fire!!Oh don't worry sir they all burst into flames it's normal..hahaha
#308
First off, thank you to rms8 and all who have contributed to this thread, and to Bluejay (I think) for making this a sticky. I can't state enough how much this site rocks . Only reason I read this is because I had to do a little brake work to the truck yesterday, not related to the soft pedal issue though I've always had it, but just because it was long over due, just wish I had read this yesterday . Today I am going to do this mod and take care of it, like I said, the truck has always suffered the soft pedal issue like a lot of others on here, it just has never really bothered me that much. I just wanted to address the comments made by Fireman Dave and mkosu04 (who I noticed had abandoned this thread years ago). Though I don't dispute their knowledge and engineering abilities, unless I am wrong, they ARE engineers Not mechanics,(and I am neither of the 2 so I may be speaking out my ars), they are guys trained to design and test certain products to be put out on the consumer market and are by no means perfect, as with the products they design. They come on here and spout their information as if though it is the do all and be all of everything. Mechanics however are the poor unfortunate souls given the task of working on and fixing said products. To me, ability and real world experience account for 2/3rds knowledge of just about anything. Anything that has been created, designed or invented through out history has either been done through trial and error or by accident. Remember the 2 piece spark plug? Well, it was an engineer or engineers that came up with that f'ed up design! Being that I am in the construction trade, I almost, and I stress almost, equate engineers to architects (who I constantly butt heads with), they sit behind their desks and create designs that look real good on paper, and most in my experience don't have any time out in the "field" making their designs work. Some engineers do however have to test their products before getting them out to market. My point is, to those of you that read this entire thread, and you really should before trying this fix (aqua-holic, no offense), I would not take what Dave and mkosu04 has posted to heart. I'm sure they are only really trying to help, but I think they are scaring people more than anything else from actually fixing what is obviously fixable. Again, I don't mean to offend any engineers (or architects) but we all can make mistakes, nobody is perfect. Sorry to highjack the thread and a big thank you, thank you, thank you Will post my results after the "fix"
edit: I did forget to mention that this is of course only my opinion, and not fact!
edit: I did forget to mention that this is of course only my opinion, and not fact!
I'm again thrilled that this has resolved another pedal issue. It was SOOOOO annoying and the fix so simple.
#309
I just bought an 08 f150 with 40,000 miles the dealership turned the rotors and installed new pads.Im wondering if i should go the route of bleeding before attempting this.I too know the "double pump" ..I would assume they would bleed the brakes.I do like this fix as it's free and i too know the fun of dealing with the dealership.My truck is on fire!!Oh don't worry sir they all burst into flames it's normal..hahaha
Good Luck!
#310
#311
THANKS RMS8, StreetHeater and the others that have contributed to this great thread !!!. I went ahead and did this today. I did 1/4 turn and then I did another 1/4. I think it might need a little more but it does feel better than before. This was very straight forward, the pics and script was right on. Pushing down on the pedal made it that much easier to access the adj. rod. I'm gonna drive it around a few days and see how it feels and then determine if it needs to be adjusted some more.
How would one notice if you've gone too far ?
How would one notice if you've gone too far ?
#313
GLAD to hear it worked for you as well!!!!!
If you adjust it too far, your brakes will already be slightly engaged, depentd on how far out it is adjusted. Depending on that, you may start smelling a burning smell on a fairly long ride, the wheels may get hot, or worst case, they may actually lock up and leave you stranded.
I would say if you can put the truck in neutral on the very slightest of inclines (VERY SLIGHT) and the truck rolls back, then the brakes are not touching the rotor. See if it seems to stop on it's own when rolling to a stop in neutral as well. You may be able to notice it stopping prematurely if the brakes are touching.
#314
Thanks , I'll keep an eye out for that .
GLAD to hear it worked for you as well!!!!!
If you adjust it too far, your brakes will already be slightly engaged, depentd on how far out it is adjusted. Depending on that, you may start smelling a burning smell on a fairly long ride, the wheels may get hot, or worst case, they may actually lock up and leave you stranded.
I would say if you can put the truck in neutral on the very slightest of inclines (VERY SLIGHT) and the truck rolls back, then the brakes are not touching the rotor. See if it seems to stop on it's own when rolling to a stop in neutral as well. You may be able to notice it stopping prematurely if the brakes are touching.
If you adjust it too far, your brakes will already be slightly engaged, depentd on how far out it is adjusted. Depending on that, you may start smelling a burning smell on a fairly long ride, the wheels may get hot, or worst case, they may actually lock up and leave you stranded.
I would say if you can put the truck in neutral on the very slightest of inclines (VERY SLIGHT) and the truck rolls back, then the brakes are not touching the rotor. See if it seems to stop on it's own when rolling to a stop in neutral as well. You may be able to notice it stopping prematurely if the brakes are touching.
#315
So disappointed!!. I have a 2006 Lincoln Navigator that has had the soft brake pedal problem pretty much since I bought it new in March 2007. Like many stories here I have put on three sets of rotors, many new pads and the dealer even replaced the MC after confirming my symptoms earlier this year. When I found this thread last night I was like a kid waiting for XMas morning to try this fix. I am usually on the Expy / Navigator and V8 forums so this thread didn't register until last night when I read something about a brake booster fix - so did a search and here I am.
Anyway... I pulled the MC off this morning and, unfortunately the booster pushrod on my Navigator is a solid rod...no adjusting nut at the end. I pulled and twisted to no avail...no adjustment is available. Buttoned it back up and went for a test drive. Brakes felt a little better / firmer but I'm sure that's just hopeful thinking. We'll see over the course of the next few weeks.
Thanks anyway.
Anyway... I pulled the MC off this morning and, unfortunately the booster pushrod on my Navigator is a solid rod...no adjusting nut at the end. I pulled and twisted to no avail...no adjustment is available. Buttoned it back up and went for a test drive. Brakes felt a little better / firmer but I'm sure that's just hopeful thinking. We'll see over the course of the next few weeks.
Thanks anyway.
Last edited by go_phx; 11-21-2010 at 06:49 PM.