Putting new Brakes on the F150?
#1
Putting new Brakes on the F150?
Well I Just bought the Powerslot rotors and the Hawk pads. They are going on the truck next Saturday. I was wondering for anyone out there is there anything specific that I would need to do for the install. That is anything different from a normal brake job. Most important what should I do for breaking them in is there anything specific? Also I was wondering what does everyone think about my truck having red calipers?
Thanks,
Brandon
Thanks,
Brandon
#2
#3
This is what Tirerack.com has to say about break in for the Hawks and the Powerslots:
HAWK:
After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.
NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at The Tire Rack for racing application information.
POWER SLOT:
Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.
HAWK:
After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.
NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at The Tire Rack for racing application information.
POWER SLOT:
Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.
#4
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#6
Does your front hubs have a big nut holding everything together, something like a 35 or 36mm? If so, you will HAVE to replace them. They are single use only.
Update: I researched a past thread of mine. The part number for the nut is 6L3Z-3C294-AA. The cheapest I found it was at brakeco.com for $15.98 each. The nut is a 36mm torqued to 295 lb/ft.
You can find a torque wrench at harbor freight for about $80 that will go up to 300 lb/ft. It is a 3/4 wrench, sp you will need an adapter to fit the 1/2" socket.
This is for a 2004 2wd truck. Numbers and specs might be different for different years.
Update: I researched a past thread of mine. The part number for the nut is 6L3Z-3C294-AA. The cheapest I found it was at brakeco.com for $15.98 each. The nut is a 36mm torqued to 295 lb/ft.
You can find a torque wrench at harbor freight for about $80 that will go up to 300 lb/ft. It is a 3/4 wrench, sp you will need an adapter to fit the 1/2" socket.
This is for a 2004 2wd truck. Numbers and specs might be different for different years.
Last edited by Redneck911; 06-13-2007 at 06:56 PM.
#7
Originally Posted by Redneck911
Does your front hubs have a big nut holding everything together, something like a 35 or 36mm? If so, you will HAVE to replace them. They are single use only.
Update: I researched a past thread of mine. The part number for the nut is 6L3Z-3C294-AA. The cheapest I found it was at brakeco.com for $15.98 each. The nut is a 36mm torqued to 295 lb/ft.
You can find a torque wrench at harbor freight for about $80 that will go up to 300 lb/ft. It is a 3/4 wrench, sp you will need an adapter to fit the 1/2" socket.
This is for a 2004 2wd truck. Numbers and specs might be different for different years.
Update: I researched a past thread of mine. The part number for the nut is 6L3Z-3C294-AA. The cheapest I found it was at brakeco.com for $15.98 each. The nut is a 36mm torqued to 295 lb/ft.
You can find a torque wrench at harbor freight for about $80 that will go up to 300 lb/ft. It is a 3/4 wrench, sp you will need an adapter to fit the 1/2" socket.
This is for a 2004 2wd truck. Numbers and specs might be different for different years.
I did my brakes a few months ago. My torque wrench only goes up to 250 lb/ft. So i torqued it to 250, then I hit it with my impact that goes up to 450 lb/ft (of course, you never realize full rated power). Seems to have done the job!
But yeah, if you buy those spindle nuts from the dealer, they are like $55 EACH!!! When I called my local dealer, they guy told me they were $12 each. So I went there to get them, and he said "oops, I gave you the price for the 4WD." But since he said it was his mistake, he gave them to me for $12 each.
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#8
Originally Posted by YellowFX4-WV
As far as special tools I would suggest WD-40 and a 5 pound sledge hammer for the removal of the rear rotors. At least thats what I needed. As far as removal of the caliper and pads...that was as simple as pie.
#9
Originally Posted by Redneck911
Does your front hubs have a big nut holding everything together, something like a 35 or 36mm? If so, you will HAVE to replace them. They are single use only.
Update: I researched a past thread of mine. The part number for the nut is 6L3Z-3C294-AA. The cheapest I found it was at brakeco.com for $15.98 each. The nut is a 36mm torqued to 295 lb/ft.
You can find a torque wrench at harbor freight for about $80 that will go up to 300 lb/ft. It is a 3/4 wrench, sp you will need an adapter to fit the 1/2" socket.
This is for a 2004 2wd truck. Numbers and specs might be different for different years.
Update: I researched a past thread of mine. The part number for the nut is 6L3Z-3C294-AA. The cheapest I found it was at brakeco.com for $15.98 each. The nut is a 36mm torqued to 295 lb/ft.
You can find a torque wrench at harbor freight for about $80 that will go up to 300 lb/ft. It is a 3/4 wrench, sp you will need an adapter to fit the 1/2" socket.
This is for a 2004 2wd truck. Numbers and specs might be different for different years.
Very easy to change
#10
Originally Posted by canyonslicker
The 4 wheel drive trucks rotor is independent from the hub. Almost like the rear rotor.
Very easy to change
Very easy to change
BTW... where are you guys buying these Powerslot/Hawk setups and approximately how much do they cost?
#11
Originally Posted by baja150
Correct... pretty much no tools necessary to remove the rotors on a 4X4.
BTW... where are you guys buying these Powerslot/Hawk setups and approximately how much do they cost?
BTW... where are you guys buying these Powerslot/Hawk setups and approximately how much do they cost?
#12
Well the new brakes are on. It was very easy and they look and stop great. I went with the power slot rotors and hawk pads. Also i painted the Calipers black. Also I took my bug sheild off and put a new grill on the truck. Please let me know what everyone thinks about the changes. Theres more pics in my gallery.
Last edited by slvrf150fx4; 06-23-2007 at 10:24 PM.
#14