HOW TO: Passenger Window Lock Bypass
#1
HOW TO: Passenger Window Lock Bypass
HOW TO: Passenger Window Lock Bypass - 2004-2008 Ford F-150 SuperCrew
NOTE: This how-to was done on a 2005 Ford F-150 Supercrew, but the principle applies to many years and may even work on the 2009+ models.
The passenger window lock can be a great thing or a total annoyance. Just about every window lock from Ford disables the window controls for the rear and passenger windows. This may be fine if your wife or girlfriend doesn't mind having absolutely no control over their window. But for many, we'd like to lock the back window for the kids, but give ourselves control up front.
This how to is actually very easy and requires one 12 gauge wire splice. On a scale from 1 to 10 (hardest being 10) this is about a 2. Before you begin, make sure you grab the necessary tools:
You will also need the following items to make sure the project goes smoothly:
1 - Yellow 12 gauge quick splice connector
1 - Yellow 12 gauge crimp connector
1 - Yellow/blue crimp terminator
1 - 1 ft length 12 gauge wire
2 - Small cable ties
All of these things you can get at Napa auto for about $8 (although you'll have plenty extra). So, let's begin.
STEP 1: Loosen the Passenger Door Switch Panel
Using your thin scraper or other tool, gently pry the passenger door switch cover up.
You will need to do this to gain access to the window switch connector so that you can test for connectivity later on.
STEP 2: Remove the switches and pull the connectors loose out of the door
Gently pull the connectors and harness out of the door a little. This photo shows the connector for a Supercrew.
Locate the YELLOW/GREEN (yellow with green stripe) wire on the window connector. If it does not have this wire, use your multimeter and test for 12VDC with the window lock off, and 0VDC with the window lock on.
MORE...
NOTE: This how-to was done on a 2005 Ford F-150 Supercrew, but the principle applies to many years and may even work on the 2009+ models.
The passenger window lock can be a great thing or a total annoyance. Just about every window lock from Ford disables the window controls for the rear and passenger windows. This may be fine if your wife or girlfriend doesn't mind having absolutely no control over their window. But for many, we'd like to lock the back window for the kids, but give ourselves control up front.
This how to is actually very easy and requires one 12 gauge wire splice. On a scale from 1 to 10 (hardest being 10) this is about a 2. Before you begin, make sure you grab the necessary tools:
- Scraper or flat metal/plastic tool
- Small flat head screwdriver
- 10mm ratchet wrench
- Wire stripper with the stripper towards the nose
- Wire crimper with the crimper towards the nose
- Wire cutters
- Needle nose pliers
- Multimeter
You will also need the following items to make sure the project goes smoothly:
1 - Yellow 12 gauge quick splice connector
1 - Yellow 12 gauge crimp connector
1 - Yellow/blue crimp terminator
1 - 1 ft length 12 gauge wire
2 - Small cable ties
All of these things you can get at Napa auto for about $8 (although you'll have plenty extra). So, let's begin.
STEP 1: Loosen the Passenger Door Switch Panel
Using your thin scraper or other tool, gently pry the passenger door switch cover up.
You will need to do this to gain access to the window switch connector so that you can test for connectivity later on.
STEP 2: Remove the switches and pull the connectors loose out of the door
Gently pull the connectors and harness out of the door a little. This photo shows the connector for a Supercrew.
Locate the YELLOW/GREEN (yellow with green stripe) wire on the window connector. If it does not have this wire, use your multimeter and test for 12VDC with the window lock off, and 0VDC with the window lock on.
MORE...
Last edited by RoushF150; 06-25-2009 at 10:14 PM.
#2
STEP 3: Remove the Door Sill Plate
Remove the passenger side door sill plate. Use a scraper and screw drivers to gently pry the panel out of the door area. Set the door rubber seal aside as much as you can.
This is done so that you can get the A pillar cover off of the fuse box.
STEP 4: Loosen up the panel covering the fuse box
Use a small screwdriver or trim removal tool to take the snap fastener out of the top of the panel.
Gently pry the panel loose (there are snap connectors next to the rubber door seal).
STEP 5: Remove Fuse Box cover
Remove the fuse box cover (door) and set is aside.
Remove the trim panel covering the fuse box as well.
STEP 6: Loosen the Fuse Box bolt
Using a 10mm socket wrench, loosen up the fuse box bolt.
Gently pry the fuse box away from the a pillar in the direction of the steering wheel.
STEP 7: Locate and disconnect the accessory connector
Locate the connector on the back (towards the right side A pillar) of the fuse box with the orange, red, green, blue, and black connectors. Disconnect this connector and locate the BLUE/BLACK 12 gauge wire.
The wire that's going to be tapped is located in the photo to the far left. It is the BLUE/BLACK (blue with black stripe) wire.
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Remove the passenger side door sill plate. Use a scraper and screw drivers to gently pry the panel out of the door area. Set the door rubber seal aside as much as you can.
This is done so that you can get the A pillar cover off of the fuse box.
STEP 4: Loosen up the panel covering the fuse box
Use a small screwdriver or trim removal tool to take the snap fastener out of the top of the panel.
Gently pry the panel loose (there are snap connectors next to the rubber door seal).
STEP 5: Remove Fuse Box cover
Remove the fuse box cover (door) and set is aside.
Remove the trim panel covering the fuse box as well.
STEP 6: Loosen the Fuse Box bolt
Using a 10mm socket wrench, loosen up the fuse box bolt.
Gently pry the fuse box away from the a pillar in the direction of the steering wheel.
STEP 7: Locate and disconnect the accessory connector
Locate the connector on the back (towards the right side A pillar) of the fuse box with the orange, red, green, blue, and black connectors. Disconnect this connector and locate the BLUE/BLACK 12 gauge wire.
The wire that's going to be tapped is located in the photo to the far left. It is the BLUE/BLACK (blue with black stripe) wire.
MORE...
Last edited by RoushF150; 06-25-2009 at 10:00 PM.
#3
STEP 8: Locate and cut the window lock wire
Locate the wires coming in from the door right behind the fuse box (look way up into the inside of the A pillar). There will be a 14 gauge YELLOW/GREEN wire (yellow with green strip) and the harness will run right next to a 10 gauge black GROUND wire. You can easily locate this harness by referencing the door connector found in the door jamb that connects the wires to the door itself (square black and white box connector).
Cut this wire about 3" from where it goes into the pillar. Using your wire stripper with the stripper in the nose, strip the wire coming out of the A pillar (heading towards the door) approximately 1/4".
Crimp the other side of the wire going to the body wiring harness using the 12 gauge terminator cap using your crimper tool.
STEP 9: Splice into the accessory power wire
Use 6" of 12 gauge wire and a yellow tap quick splice and connect it to the 12 gauge BLUE/BLACK (blue wire with black stripe) wire. Use a pair of pliers to compress the metal tab first, then click the quick splice cover in place.
Check to make sure the cover snaps in place snugly. Do not use the cover to compress the metal tab into the two wires being spliced.
STEP 10: Crimp the splice wire into the door wire
Use a 12 gauge yellow crimp connector to connect the yellow splice wire to the YELLOW/GREEN wire going to the door.
If you haven't done so already, make sure to cap off the other YELLOW/GREEN wire going to the body wiring harness so that you don't get a short.
MORE...
Locate the wires coming in from the door right behind the fuse box (look way up into the inside of the A pillar). There will be a 14 gauge YELLOW/GREEN wire (yellow with green strip) and the harness will run right next to a 10 gauge black GROUND wire. You can easily locate this harness by referencing the door connector found in the door jamb that connects the wires to the door itself (square black and white box connector).
Cut this wire about 3" from where it goes into the pillar. Using your wire stripper with the stripper in the nose, strip the wire coming out of the A pillar (heading towards the door) approximately 1/4".
Crimp the other side of the wire going to the body wiring harness using the 12 gauge terminator cap using your crimper tool.
STEP 9: Splice into the accessory power wire
Use 6" of 12 gauge wire and a yellow tap quick splice and connect it to the 12 gauge BLUE/BLACK (blue wire with black stripe) wire. Use a pair of pliers to compress the metal tab first, then click the quick splice cover in place.
Check to make sure the cover snaps in place snugly. Do not use the cover to compress the metal tab into the two wires being spliced.
STEP 10: Crimp the splice wire into the door wire
Use a 12 gauge yellow crimp connector to connect the yellow splice wire to the YELLOW/GREEN wire going to the door.
If you haven't done so already, make sure to cap off the other YELLOW/GREEN wire going to the body wiring harness so that you don't get a short.
MORE...
Last edited by RoushF150; 06-25-2009 at 10:25 PM.
#4
STEP 11: Check the connection and cable tie the wire
This is when it's the right time to use an ohmmeter to check that the window connector and the fuse box connector have good connectivity. Place one lead of the ohmetter into the YELLOW/GREEN wire connector for the window switch and the other lead into the BLUE/BLACK wire connector for the fuse box. Ensure 0 ohms.
Zip tie the wire in place. Reconnect all connectors, include the ones on the door. Test the window to ensure you can open and close it using the passenger side window switch with or without the window lock switch enabled on the driver's side door.
When the passenger window switch works with the window lock on, you know the bypass is a success. Reattach all fasteners, covers, and plates.
STEP 12: GRAB A COLD BEER
Grab a beer or a nice cool beverage. Enjoy!
This is when it's the right time to use an ohmmeter to check that the window connector and the fuse box connector have good connectivity. Place one lead of the ohmetter into the YELLOW/GREEN wire connector for the window switch and the other lead into the BLUE/BLACK wire connector for the fuse box. Ensure 0 ohms.
Zip tie the wire in place. Reconnect all connectors, include the ones on the door. Test the window to ensure you can open and close it using the passenger side window switch with or without the window lock switch enabled on the driver's side door.
When the passenger window switch works with the window lock on, you know the bypass is a success. Reattach all fasteners, covers, and plates.
STEP 12: GRAB A COLD BEER
Grab a beer or a nice cool beverage. Enjoy!
#7
Trending Topics
#8
I like this mod! I am going to do this along with another mod. I wired in one of these modules in each of the other doors on my Supercrew. Now it is a one touch to roll down each window.
http://www.ponyperformance.com/specials2.html
Click on "Specials" to find the link.
2004-2008 Ford F150
One Touch Down Window Module kits for 04-08 Ford F150's
Simple 5 wire hookup with only 1 factory wire being cut, installs right at window switch.
Kit uses factory Ford module
http://www.ponyperformance.com/specials2.html
Click on "Specials" to find the link.
2004-2008 Ford F150
One Touch Down Window Module kits for 04-08 Ford F150's
Simple 5 wire hookup with only 1 factory wire being cut, installs right at window switch.
Kit uses factory Ford module
Last edited by XL1200Ltd-Keith; 10-23-2010 at 10:03 PM.
#14
I have some questions about the BLUE/BLACK (blue with black stripe) that you tapped into.
Does it come off of the Lock Switch on the drivers side, or is it just an easy wire to tap into?
Is it constantly hot, or when the switch is in the accessory or on position?
How about the auto delay feature, is it hot after the ignition key is turned off?
When you open a door does it disable ( the auto delay) it?
Is it possible to post the wiring diagram?
Thanks.
Does it come off of the Lock Switch on the drivers side, or is it just an easy wire to tap into?
Is it constantly hot, or when the switch is in the accessory or on position?
How about the auto delay feature, is it hot after the ignition key is turned off?
When you open a door does it disable ( the auto delay) it?
Is it possible to post the wiring diagram?
Thanks.
Last edited by XL1200Ltd-Keith; 06-27-2009 at 06:03 PM.
#15
I have some questions about the BLUE/BLACK (blue with black stripe) that you tapped into.
Does it come off of the Lock Switch on the drivers side, or is it just an easy wire to tap into?
Is it constantly hot, or when the switch is in the accessory or on position?
How about the auto delay feature, is it hot after the ignition key is turned off?
When you open a door does it disable ( the auto delay) it?
Is it possible to post the wiring diagram?
Thanks.
Does it come off of the Lock Switch on the drivers side, or is it just an easy wire to tap into?
Is it constantly hot, or when the switch is in the accessory or on position?
How about the auto delay feature, is it hot after the ignition key is turned off?
When you open a door does it disable ( the auto delay) it?
Is it possible to post the wiring diagram?
Thanks.
The blue/black wire tapped into feeds the power window on the driver's side along with a few other vehicle accessories. This does not feed the lock. It is the accessory line that is delayed like the driver's side window and does not turn on until the ignition key is on the accessory or ON position. It is 12VDC and when you tap into it your passenger side window will behave exactly like the driver's side window (aside from single click down feature).
Note that this wire is tapped at the fuse box end, not the driver's side door end. I will see if I can get the wiring diagram up for you to look at.