While on the road July 3rd, my 2004 Supercrew (5.4L) began to shudder / misfire on acceleration. The check engine light came on and went off several times until finally it started flashing. I had it towed (AAA) home to be on the safe side. My scanner gave me the following:
Codes:
P0022 - Cam Position Actuator A - Bnk 2 Timing Over-Retard
P0171 - System To Lean Bank 1
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0305 - Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0307 - Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected
P0308 - Cylinder 8 Misfire Detected
P0316 - Misfire Detected 1st 1000 Revs
P2198 - Stuck Rich 2/1

Pending Codes:
P0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected

------------------------------------------------------

I did the following the next day:
(1) started it up - ran rough at idle while parked, smoothed out a little at >1200 rpm but still seemed like it was missing a cylinder. I let it run about 5-6 minutes. Only 1 "pending" code was picked up (P2198 - O2S Stuck Rich 2/1)

(2) Then I cleared the codes and took it for a 1/4 mile test drive. It ran rough as I expected (pinged a little) and had very little power. Once again no MIL codes but got the following "pending" codes:
P0022 - Cam Position Actuator A - Bnk 2 Timing Over-Retard
P2198 - O2S Stuck Rich 2/1

(3) Replaced the bank 2 Cam Position Sensor - still ran rough at idle
Replaced bank 1 CPS with old bank 2 CPS - still ran rough at idle.

(4) Let it run about 5 minutes idling and revving up to 1500 rpm. Again no MIL but got the following "pending" codes this time:
P0022 - Cam Position Actuator A - Bnk 2 Timing Over-Retard
P0171 System To Lean Bank 1
P2198 O2S Stuck Rich 2/1

------------------------------------------------------

Next - I replaced all spark plugs and cleaned the MAF sensor. I also pulled all the fuel injectors and checked for leakage while attached to the fuel rail - none were stuck open or leaking at all. There was no noticeale change after all this. I listened to all the fuel injectors while idling and all sounded normal when compared to my '08 Screw. Then I got curious and began disconnecting COPs one at a time. There was a noticeable change to engine RPM an rhythm when each bank 1 (passenger side) COP was disconnected. There was NO change when any bank 2 COP was disconnected. I then disconnected 5, 6, and 7 at the same time and the engine continued to run the same (not even the slightest change in rhythm or rpm)!

Is it possible that the bank 2 COPs are not getting a signal to fire? If so - what would cause that. The only pending code I received was P2198 (Stuck Rich Bank 2 Sensor 1). No misfire codes at all but I'm not sure if they are defeated until engine warm-up.

Any help would be appreciated. I still haven't looked at the bank 2 VCT solenoid but I am wondering if I should.

penguinshockey

 

my truck did almost the same thing when my cats went bad. did it start stinking real bad some time before it did that? the only code i did not get you did was the cam sensor one

 

I was also thinking the same thing but wanted to rule out whatever else I could first.

Did you or the dealer diagnose it and did both cats on the affected side require replacement?

 

Checked the bank 2 (drivers side) exhaust backpressure. Less than 1 psi at idle and at 2000 rpm. The OTC backpressure gauge I have says that >1.25 psi at idle or >4.5 psi at 2500 rpm indicates a plugged cat. It doesn't appear to be a clogged cat by that standard however I am wondering of that is too low a pressure.

I think I'm going to replace all four coils on bank 2 and see what happens. I have read a number of forum posts where multiple coil failures have occurred.

I'd be happy to entertain any other ideas . . . . .

 

Seems like your getting WAYYY too heavy into diagnosis here. You may have already found your problem. If you've disconnected coils and had no change in RPM then it's clear those cylinders aren't delivering power. The question is why? Is it no signal or bad coils?

Remove the coil from the plug and attach an old spark plug to it. Run a wire from the ground strap on the plug to a good ground (a test lead with alligator clips works great here). Start the engine and look for a spark across the gap. Do this for each plug. If there's spark then it's getting the signal, the coil could still be weak however, but at least this test will narrow things down.

 

How many miles are on it, what weight oil is in it, and what brand oil filter is on it?

 

Tbird69 -
You call it way to heavy into diagnosis . . . I call it OBSESSION !!! I didn't think about using the old spark plugs to check the coils. Excellent idea.
Ford mechanic suggested that I check the exhaust backpressure as it sounded like a clogged cat to him. A clogged cat would make it seem like bank two wasn't firing - so disconnecting coils really wouldn't affect anything. He told me to check the backpressure and to replace the cat if clogged - then diagnose what caused it (misfire, leaking injector, etc.).


Quintin -
67,000 miles / 5W20 / Motorcraft Filter (changed @ 4000-5000 mi intervals)

 

Okay. Put a vacuum gauge on it at idle and tell me what it's reading. Should be around 18-22 in/hg, with the needle holding steady.

 

I understand completely. All I was saying is that it's easy to end up chasing things that could be the problem but actually aren't. Meanwhile checking the basic stuff gets overlooked in the process.

 

17 in/hg steady at idle. I measured it at the vacuum line that goes to the IWE solenoid.

 

That's low for that engine at idle. You need to fix your P0022 before anything else, IMO. I'd remove the VCT solenoid (pry the seal off around it, and there's a single torx bolt that holds it in place, it's a T20 or 25 IIRC, and it's captive to the solenoid so it shouldn't fall out into the engine...stand by with a magnet anyways just in case) and make sure there's no trash or debris in the solenoid.

If it looks okay, I think you're gonna be looking at a cam phaser, but I'd weigh the cost of parts/labor with regards to replacing the VCT solenoid over the phaser. You may want to try a VCT solenoid given how easy it is to replace over the cam phaser, and if that gets it, great. If not, well, then you'll have to dig in and get that phaser replaced.

 

I'll pull the VCT solenoid today. Is there any way to check it's operation other than putting it into the other side?

As I understand it, the phaser is supposed to go back to full advance on engine shutdown and then held in place by a pin until engine oil temp is above 50 degrees or something like that upon engine start. Since it never get below 50 degrees at night this time of year, I guess a bad VCT could drive the phaser to full retard as soon as the engine is started??

 

I pulled the VCT solenoid. It didn't look too bad internally (no sludge or debris) however there was a piece of the upper screen broken and I can see it where it is but I can't dislodge it. I'm not sure how if there is any way to test operation with it removed so I guess replacement may be my only option. It seems that Ford is the only place that has one.

Is there anyway to check if the cam phaser is stuck from the VCT opening in the valve cover.

 

my borther just had almost the same problems,his problems turned out to be 4L short on oil and 3 bad boots on 3 coils

 

4L short on oil. That only leaves a couple of quarts left!