For several days now I have been working to isolate the source of some intermittent grinding/slight vibration that happens during stopping, accelerating, and low speed cruising (0-45mph) and the slight vibrations (feel like they originate in the front end..) in the 50-65mph range. This has been going on for sometime but with the new tires going on Thursday I'm looking to either replace whatever the problems is before getting an alignment...

I replaced the IWE solenoid some time back.. I have checked the IWE's by jacking up the front of the truck, starting it and the wheels were able to spin freely. With the truck off the wheels are engaged and turn the CV shafts when rolled. 4WD appears to work just fine, it engages every time in 4hi and 4lo; the only thing I noticed here is the noticeable 'clunk' no longer happens when it engages..

The wheel bearings are the only other thing I can imagine at the moment, all other components of the front end have been replaced (ball joints, tie rods, tie rod ends, bushings, etc..). I had a bad wheel bearing while the lift was being installed which is what led me to believe this could be the issue again. Assuming it could be the front wheel bearings, is it correct there are 2 per side?

I'm really looking to pick your knowledgeable brains here since I have already rebuilt the front end this year except for the CV shafts, IWE's, and the wheel bearings to see what ideas y'all might have.. i have been doing a lot of searching on both subjects but my issue seems to fall in the middle (some symptoms of IWE's and some of wheel bearings..), and most of the posts on wheel bearings pertain to 2wd's. I kinda am figuring with the amount of whee/tire I'm turning the wheel bearings are probably shot, and same with the IWE's...

 

Is one side more prevalent than the other ?? Possible tire noise (I saw you were replacing them anyway). The wheel bearings are replaced as a complete hub assy. not individual bearings. I know that wasn't a whole lot of help. but good luck and keep us posted what you find

 

on the grinding, I'll give you one scenario. After first start up and then driving its really 'rough' and 'grindy'. I thought this could be it taking a while to build vacuum, so I waited tried starting it and waiting a minute or two then driving off, still the same. It seems more prevalent on the right side in this case. Other times it seems all over the front end (i.e. the roughness when stopping, kinda feels like a lot of metal on metal friction is the best way I could describe it).. Its actually quiet hard to explain all these feelings, noises, vibrations online

so even on the 4wd's the bearings are sold only in a complete hub assembly? I only ask cause on rockauto.com I can buy just the bearings ($50), or i can also buy the complete hub ($170). The latter is just more expensive to do both sides!

 

I would put the truck on a lift or jack stands and in 4wd listen to the front bearings with a stethoscope or long screwdriver to the ear and listen for grinding or anything abnormal. Again if it was mine I wouldn't attempt to press in new bearings, if I had a bad one I would get a new hub assy. and call it a day, you get new ABS sensors seals and the works in one unit, but, that's just me.

 

I'm new to the whole 'bearing' process so I'm learning as I go what goes into it. I like the way you think though, I saw the whole hub assembly for 170 or so and thought why the hell not

 

It's the best way to go IMHO if bearings is what you need.

 

I feel like its the wheel bearings, but I also feel like it could be the IWE's losing vaccum pressure while driving and rubbing... Either way its expensive, even more expensive to just fix it all

 

I decided to check the check valves in the vacuum system after some searching around here.. They held but bled down; so for ten bucks I think I'll see if these are part of the issue before dropping 300 bucks on hubs..

 

If it is wheel bearings, Driving down the road, turn right or left the more you turn the wheel the noise would get more louder.

 

The newer Ford bearing set-up is very poor in my opinion. They are easily penetrated by water, moisture, dirt, etc. I've replaced three hub/bearings on my Stang GT and already replaced three on my 44K mile 2wd STX. The first rotor replacement on my STX was due to a dry bearing at 20K miles and Ford picked-up the tab under warranty. The newer Ford bearing was dry at 42K miles. It has been a very dry year so I do not think it was due to excess rain.

Jack up the front end and spin the tires/wheels. A bad bearing will be easily heard. You may hear a little pad/rotor noise but that is normal. A growl or grinding noise is what you are looking for.

I replaced my brakes/rotors a few months ago. It can be done in less than three hours on both sides. That includes cleaning inside of the wheels and taking a few brakes to cool off (or warm up).

I replaced my rotors with two year warranty Wearever rotors from Advance Auto Parts online. You might check their site. They have had a lot of online discounts in the past few months. I saved $80.00 by ordering/paying online and picking them up at the store.

 

That is the thing, to my knowledge there is no noise associated with my issues, just the grinding sensation, slight vibrations, and roughness while stopping/accelerating.. the roughness and slight vibration get worse while turning?

I have done what blue07STX suggested many times, i will try it again tonight since I probably was not paying attention to the wheel bearings any time I have been in or around that area.

 

In my lack of understanding this whole 'vacuum 4wd' system..it is correct that when the truck is off, vacuum is released and the hubs are engaged, correct? I only ask because when i took a peek at it during lunch and pulled the vacuum lines off the IWE solenoid, it let off a hiss like it was just then letting off the vacuum even though it had been sitting all morning? was it releasing whats in the reservoir? I'm starting to doubt this is really any issue related to the IWE's...

 

Ok here ill try to explain a little bit lol.

As you already know to check the vacuum pressure and the check valves which is good. Now if you replace the check valves and the noise goes away than you obviously found your problem. But if you have not than you are in the same boat i was. I could not figure out what the heck was going on and which side was making the noise. SOO i ordered a HUB ACTUATOR instead of the whole hub assembly. Why did i do this? Because what happens is that grinding noise you are hearing is the half shaft that goes into the hub is grinding on the actuator because the actuator is what actually is being sucked in or out of the hub. So even if you replace the check valves your Hub Actuators could still be bad because of all the grinding that it did before. MOST LIKELY it wont be your whole hub assembly and its just your Hub Actuator. So if you find the check valves are good and no more grinding than great but if you wanna be safe order a hub actuator because that part could still be bad.

I wish i had pictures man because i did this same thing and it solved my grinding noise and i didnt actually have to buy a whole new hub. Dont be fooled by the sound though. I though mine was coming from the left side but it was actually the right. But the good thing about replacing a hub actuator is that is can be put on either side im 90% sure because both sides are the same and it literally just slides into the boot looking thing. Its easy to replace.


Perfect example of what im talking about. I dont think i needed to type all of this once i found this post but if you need more help just PM me.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/4397487-post110.html

Heres a link to the Hub Actuators at Tascaparts.com

 

Now if its your wheel bearings than its also a simple fix as the hub and wheel bearings are all one assembly.

 

I tried to go to oreilly's and autozone but neither had the correct size check valve to my dismay... Mhockey, I actually have read many of the posts where you were working to fix yours, that is what got me wanting to try the cheap possibility of bad check valves!