Are they closed end lug nuts?

have you checked to see if they are bottoming out before they snug down against the wheel? They may be contacting the wheel and keeping it from wobbling enough to feel it.

 

A couple of thoughts. If the studs are rusted, you might try cleaning them up. A rusty stud is going to reach torque faster because of the resistance of the threads. A little anti-seize on the threads wouldn't hurt anything either. Also make sure your lug nuts have the correct taper for those aftermarket wheels.

 

That is an excellent point. There are a few different lugnut types and they are not interchangeable. There are angled, rounded and flat. If you use the wrong one with the rim seat, those lugnuts will never stay tight...

 

As per the owners manual, NEVER use any lube on the lugs. They are not properly torqued if a lube of any kind is used.

 

My owners manual does not make any such statement. It does state this: "When a wheel is installed, always remove any corrosion, dirt or foreign materials present on the mounting surfaces of the wheel or the surface of the wheel hub, brake drum or brake disc that contacts the wheel. Ensure that any fasteners that attach the rotor to the hub are secured so they do not interfere with the mounting surfaces of the wheel. Installing wheels without correct metal-to-metal contact at the wheel mounting surfaces can cause the wheel nuts to loosen and the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion, resulting in loss of control.

With regard to grease it indicates the following: "Note: Inspect the wheel pilot hole prior to installation. If there is visible corrosion in wheel pilot hole, remove loose particles by wiping with clean rag and apply grease. Apply grease only to the wheel pilot hole surface by smearing a “dime” (1 square cm) sized glob of grease around the wheel pilot surface (1) with end of finger. DO NOT apply grease to lugnut/stud holes or wheel-to-brake surfaces."

The above is not referencing the lugs, but the hole in the wheel where the stud comes through. I've been using anti-seize on lug nuts for years. It is not really a lubricant and the worse thing a lubricant can do to any bolt and nut is reduce the friction needed to reach the proper torque spec as opposed to dry threads. If the threads are spotless that might not be the case, but unless you run a die over the stud and a tap through the lug nut, they are never going to be as clean as new parts. You'll thank me if you ever have to change a tire out on the road in the middle of nowhere with nothing but your tire tool.

 

NEVER EVER USE JUST AN IMPACT TO TIGHTEN YOUR LUGS!! not only do you run the risk of under torquing but also over torquing, you could stretch the studs causing them to sheer off while your driving, ALWAYS USE A TORQUE WRENCH!!

 

Then why would you think to they say not use anything on the lugnut/stud holes. They also state to clean anything off it.

As for needing lube on lugs/lugnuts, I haven't needed them in the 40 years I have been dealing with them, doubt I ever will. If yours are rusting up, then you are doing something wrong. The only place I have ever used a lub was on the center hole, to keep the axle from corroding to the wheel.

 

You've never seen rust on a wheel stud or a lug nut? You must lead a very sheltered life.

 

I had warped rotors on an old F150 from over tightening the lugs.

I use a weak impact gun to get my wheels on and then follow up with a torque wrench. I've had no problems and I off road on beat up hunting trails a lot.

 

Kingfish is right Windsor. What it's referring to is the CENTER hole in the wheel, not the lug nut holes. Those wheels are "hub centric", meaning the center hole is what centers the wheel on the hub, not the lug nuts. NO oil or grease on the studs, lug nuts or holes.

 

Are the wheels hub centric? I can't imagine them not being if they made them to fit the Ford 6 lug pattern, but I also can't imagine them not staying tight with even 140 lbs of torque, much less the 150 they call for. That's a pretty tight wheel. If for some reason they weren't milled right to fit nice and tight on the rear axle flange, I can see that the lugs might not keep 'em tight on the drive wheels. I wouldn't go beyond the 150, something wrong if they are dry (no lube) and they still come loose at that torque.

 

Where in this thread do I advocate oil or grease on threads? I will continue to use anti-seize. I've yet to hear any evidence it's a bad idea, just that "you're not supposed to do it". Another internet myth. I use it because of its corrosion inhibiting properties, not that it might provide lubrication for the threads.

My take on not putting grease on the holes in the wheels is to keep the taper on the lug nuts and the wheel dry. That's your contact area. Lubricant on that surface might yield a lot less friction and could result in distorted torque value that may be stressing the wheel stud.

 

I'd like to congratulate most of you on what I can only call world class thread degeneration. We've got schlock science with just whacking on lug nuts "till they're tight" - which has been proven time and again to be dangerous. Heck, I'm a Mechanical Engineer if you want to debate that one. Over or under torquing of lug nuts will cause problems. Unevenly torquing lug nuts will cause problems - plain and simple.

Getting back to the OP, if your lug nuts came loose and you drove the truck for any period of time, you have most likely damaged the wheels, the lug nuts and / or the studs. Once you damage the seating surface on the wheel or lug nut, it will never tighten correctly again. That means it will keep coming loose. I'm betting that's what happened. It's pretty easy to see if the wheels have been damaged. If they have, you're going to have to replace them. And, I'd recommend replacing at least the studs too for peace of mind too.

 

Thats the funny thing. I did have one of the rear wheels come loose off the truck about 5 days after I installed them. There is lugnut seat damage. But now that tire stays mostly tight. The other rear, however I can get about an 1/8 turn every other day or so.

 

I have not read all the posts to see if this has been discussed, but don't some wheels require tapered lug nuts(like factory wheels) while some aftermarket wheels reqire the non taper? Could this be your problem?

Maybe bevelled is the correct term.