I agree. The issue is the guy I got the motor from is saying the motor is fine due to a perfect compression test. The dealer did a leakdown and a compression to get those results. He is still argueing with me about getting me a new motor or anything. I am thinking I may have to sue him to get money back. I am trying to figure out if the motor can be repaired or just needs to be replaced.

 

I'm surprised that such a small difference in the leak down on 2 cylinders would cause it to run so poorly. I could understand if the compression was bad. Typically if it will run and idol smoothly but doesn't have any power I would be first looking at timing / fuel delivery / air delivery issues / ignition issues.

Does it idol smoothly?
Does it rev smoothly in park but no power in drive?

 

Exactly what I was thinking!! The 145 is only 25% loss in the worse cylinder. The 175 is only 8% loss. It idles poorly and revs slowly. It has no power at all in drive. The weird thing is the motor I replaced it with ran the same way. Everyone is saying it is just because both motors where bad but I am not so sure. I asked the dealer about wiring or fuel and they quickly ruled it out as the computer tested everything and showed it good. They spent 9 hours on diagnostics at the dealer and this is all they came up with. I know something is wrong and I have about $4000 into fixing this problem. The truck still doesnt run correctly and is not drivable!

 

Man I would pickup a PCM from autozone if possible and try it so if it doesn't fix the issue you can return it. Also have you changed the fuel filter? Even with a dirty filter that's not flowing volume you will still get good fuel pressure but I would have expected the dealer to pick up on this during the diagnostics. Are the COPS from the 09 or your 05? The fact that it had the same issue with the old motor is the key I think. I would start working thorugh everything that wasn't changed in the swap that has anything to do with fuel / air / ignition / timing.

It doesn't make since that the computer doesn't latch a misfire code. When mine so much as hickups in the first 1000 rpms I get a code. My gut says somethings not right with the PCM. It's almost like it's not monitoring at all. You should purposely try to set a code by pulling one of the COP connectors and you should get a circuit failure code after you run it for a little bit. If it won't latch a code when you force one to happen then somethings wrong with the PCM. Try a reflash if the dealer didn't already, then replace it if that doesn't work.

 

We think the same. We took apart the PCM and found nothing burned but I got a new one from a junkyard and had the dealer flash it. On the old ecu I tested what you are saying with the cam position sensor and it caught it each time on both sides. Stupid thing is I have not changed the fuel filter. I will call the dealer and ask them how much they want to do it. They assured me that they tested pressure but I know they didn't test flow volume. Maybe that's it but I would think it would run the injectors furthest from the feed lean and that would trip a code.

 

They should have checked the pressure at idle and when on the throttle, if the filter is clogged it will be low under throttle. Could also be the fuel pump or driver module but both should have shown pressure issues under throttle.

So you had already tried the PCM and that didn't fix it or you just got it and haven't tried it? It's just realy strange because almost everything is monitored and with no codes for even a misfire it doesn't make any sense.

Did you have the harmonic balancer off during the swap? I'm just wondering if it might have jumped timing on the crank. When there is no oil pressure on the tensioners it's pretty easy to jump timing on the lower sprocket while installing the balancer. I know from first hand experience if someone was cranking the motor over manually at some point just to make sure it wasn't frozen up before they sold it to you it could have easily jumped a tooth on the crank. As long as it jumped on both chains you muight not get a timing code. I know if only one side jumps it will code for sure. This could also possibly explain the leak down issues.

 

this article may help you on the differences in crank gears and timing gears

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...formation.aspx

 

I'd also check the exhaust/cats for clogs. Good luck.

 

Cats are fine you can see light through them.

 

Well I am still stumped. We changed the fuel filter which was actually fine. No change. I unpluged the injectors and cops on the 1st 3 cylinders on the passenger side and it didnt make a difference. The truck will not go about 3500 rpms. I am not sure where to go with this. I was thinking flywheel or cam phasers maybe different but the flywheel is listed as the same part number on an 09 and 06. I know there is a revision of the phasers but they use the newer one it seems. I really dont know what to check next. it is throwing a code for the cut off cat. I also picks up the codes when I unplug injectors or cops so I know it sees them. Any ideas what to check next? Is there any way to log the motor?