2004 F150 FX4 Screw 220 000km spark plug replacement.

I know the plugs subject has been beaten to death over and over again...

But I have a specific question related to the prep procedures...

Here is what I was thinking of doing. Remove all the COPS , blow out the hole with compressed air, spray some carb cleaner in the hole , blow that out...

The shoot a 2-3, 4 drops of PB Blaster in each hole, re-install cops and leave it for 2-3 days , then respray PB Blaster... and do it for a week or 2... basically attempting to slowly break everything free before the overnight soak the day before I do the plugs...

So my question is PB Blaster non-conductive? Will 3-4 drops of it in the spakplug hole cause any problems ... start a fire? or have any effect... positive or negative...

or am I just waisting my time...

Thanks in advance.
SC

 

Ur wasting your time just get you a lisle tool and dive in.

 

First, PB Blaster has had mixed results. You should use carb cleaner as recommended by Ford. Secondly, it needs to be used shortly before you start removing so it has not had time to dry and resolidify. Thirdly, don't start the job without having a Lisle tool handy and lastly, the guys using an impact or air rachet seem to be batting close to 100% results.

 

Thanks for the replies!

I got the Lisle Tool, OTC 9/16 spark plug socket and plugs. So carb cleaner it is.

I have an impact and air ratchet... but I wonder what ft/lbs to set it at... or if it is a good idea... maybe i'll try #1 or #5 and see what happens... could it hurt the threads more than doing it by hand?

 

I think the guys just barely break them lose by hand and then run them out with the air. So far, not heard of anyone causing damage. At my dealer, they use impacts.

 

Here is one thread on the subject.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...y-writeup.html

 

Put some Techron in the gas and go drive the hell out of it.

 

Ford has changed their mind about what to use as the chemical to weep down and soften the deposits so many times I have lost track. Kroil, PB, carb cleaner... you name it.

As far as I am concerned the TSB is garbage, it is complete crap, and I'd like them to fix the problem rather than keep making excuses and procedures.

Now that being said, I got to talk to a lot of techs at different dealerships/shops when I worked in parts. The best procedure I heard for getting the plugs out was to prep one side getting the COP's ready to pull out by removing the hold down hardware, etc. Have a 3/8 impact gun ready, hop in the truck, take it out and get it good and warm, get it in your bay, and get the plugs out on that bank before it cools using the impact wrench.

 

There is no reason to soak them.. Dont waste your time.. Just take an air to the holes and blow them out, then use an impact and you will be done.. Very easy with an impact and it works like a charm. I used my 1/2in impact at 60psi and then the lowest setting on the impact. An electric impact would be ideal since not as much torque as air.. This is what i did and went 8 for 8 with no broken plugs!!

Let warm up for a few minutes.. Once warm then remove COP's and blow out holes... Then remove PCM... Then just take the impact and some extensions and swivels and have at it... Then put antisiez on the new plugs if motorcrafts (Shields only) and install... Then some Dielectric grease on the end of the COP's and your done..

***Once you hit the trigger on the impact DO NOT STOP until they are out***

 

After cleaning out the plug wells.....We still break them loose an 1/8th turn and soak them with techron for a half hour.....on a warmed up motor.....then hit them with an impact.....zip they're out.....we also give the customer a bottle of techron to run in their fuel system before the plug change....

 

You soak with Techron? Haven't heard that one before!

 

Well heck, it can't hurt!

 

In April of this year I decided it was time to change the plugs (2006 Mark LT 4x2, 5.4, 35,000 miles) with the Motorcraft SP 515’s. Although I knew about the carbon build-up/plug removal issue, I decided not to change the plugs until there was a replacement plug that I was comfortable with…meaning I knew it was a good quality plug in terms of component design and construction. Although I did following the most recent TSB, I also relied on my experience back in the 1970’s when aluminum heads & intake manifolds were just entering the street scene and never-seize did not exist. Here are the exceptions to the TSB that I did…
1. I ran Lucas fuel injection cleaner, mixed at 3 times their recommendation in 1 full tank of gasoline. Purpose…if I was lucky, it would dissolve or loosen any carbon buildup (although many do a real fuel injection cleaning also- and it is probably a best practice to do if you have more than 45-50,000 miles on the plugs)
2. Although I am a fan of PB Blaster, I used a product called ChemSearch “Yield”. The issue I have with using carb cleaner is the lack of lubrication…..in the old days of removing steel plugs from aluminum heads, we use to mix up acetone & ATF…or of we needed more lubrication, kerosene & ATF, “Yield” provides this lubrication- much better IMHO than even PB Blaster.
3. Yes, I put anti-seize on the plug threads (I know the TSB says not to)
4. Of course…a lot of patience, I really doubt if I ever put more than 20-25 lbs of force during removal (purposefully)
The end result, only one plug even “squeaked” coming out (but it basically unscrewed like a regular plug- literally). Plug #4 was initially a little stubborn, but after the second try, then waiting about 30 minutes, it came out with very little effort…just kept wiggling the plugs (tightening/loosening) by 1/8th or even less of a turn- and they all came out without a single one breaking or any issue really.
Actual working time: 2 hours…..including washing my hands, total time was 5 hours.
FYI- Why I choose Motorcraft.
In the 1970’s I ran (like many) Champion’s in just about everything (even had the gold palladiums), but stopped in the early 1980’s when they changed their copper-core design and the resulting quality problems that IMHO still exist today. Since then I have run Splitfire (non-platinum) in my old world (1960’s) cars, Bosch in my late 1990’s vehicles (both because the cylinder head design really prefers these types of plugs), but I really had hesitation because of the construction/component quality of the non-Motorcraft plugs and really questioned the durability in this application about the Motorcraft SP508 or SP 509’s which are single platinum. Given the types of loads and burn/flame promulgation rates in the chambers, I really had doubts about the style of the plug with single platinum having the ability to “survive” as long as they engineers said. What do ya know…the SP 515’s are double platinum.

 

It breaks down carbon deposites.....doesn't it?

 

What is your impact set at? I guess an impact driver and impact wrench have helped me avoid breaking screws and bolts ... I might give her a try on #1 and #5 at the front to see what happens...

My only fear are the threads...