so i went and got a new tire the other day and the guys at the shop said i need to replace my ball joints. i think i read on here that to replace the lower ball joints on my truck i need to replace the whole lower arm is that true? it is a 04 2x4 with 4.6l also where is a good place to order ball joints from?

 

The lower ball joints can be pressed out of the arm. If you have to replace the uppers however, you will have to replace the whole arm. I would recommend the Moog uppers though, they come with a replaceable ball joint.

Rockauto.com is a good place to get them. Good luck!

 

Definately agree with thebigc. I just did mine about a month ago and I hae to tell you that if you get all the way into the job then it's a lot easier to just replace the upper while you are at it. I think I spent around 250+100 in tools to get the job done and it was pretty easy. There is some good picture documents on the site that made the process super easy for me. Definately used rockauto and saved a couple of bucks. I rented the ball joint press from autozone and the only problem was not having (2) 2inch sleeves so when I pressed in the bottom I had to use a 1 1/2inch and it kind of pinched the rubber but didn't cause a rip or any problems. Make sure to freeze the ball joints when you are pressing them in since it makes it a lot easier.

 

also did my upper and lower ball joints about a month ago....not to bad to do...first side took me about 2 1/2 hours...second side took just over a hour...you dont need 2 two in sleeves if you rent a ball joint press from autozone or where ever...when you press that lower ball joint in place...take the rubber boot off your new ball joint and put the bottom of the c-clamp right on the ball joint with the 2 inch collar on top to create the space for the ball joint to slide in...it took me a few minutes to figure that out when i was doing my ball joints....at first i was thinking i needed 2 of those 2 inch collars also..

 

so my lowers can be pressed out but uppers need the whole arm replaced. that was very smart ford. is there any way i can check my ball joints to see if they are just saying i need to do it and let me pay them 90 a hour.

 

To check:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1098014

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/70...ll-joints.html

http://www.f150forum.com/f76/how-che...s-video-67310/




For the average 2004, they are probably due. As are the tierod ends and possibly swaybar links.

I'd classify this as prudent preventative maintenance.

Preventing a wheel letting go, or steering loss @ speed is always a good idea

BTW - my vote is for Moog components as well. Or Spicer, if you can't find Moog for whatever reason.

 

Just did mine last weekend. Not hard to do. I already had a ball joint press, just rented a 4wd set. Relaced lower ball joints, upper control arms, tie rod ends and IWE's. I almost ordered 2 hubs but fortunatly bearings were ok. Might as well replace all that you can while you're in there! Not that expensive, went with Moog from Rockauto. Get some good grease and an alignment afterwards and you are good to go!

 

mkinttrim about how much did every thing set you back?

 

Don't have the exact numbers with me right now. I got the lower ball joints on ebay as they were a cpl bucks cheaper than Rock Auto, think they were $18 a side. The upper control arms and tie rod ends were from rockauto and the IWE's were from Tasca. Think the IWE's were about $82 a side, Upper control arms were $71 and $73, tie rod ends were about $35 a side.

 

How did you get the tie rod ends off? I tried for a long time and just could not get mine to budge? What's an IWE?

Smart thinking averagejoe. I'm helping a friend do his on an 2010 in the next couple of weeks so I will definately be taking that knowledge with me. What kills me is the fact that I looked at the problem for about and hour and couldn't figure out a solution so just said shove it and pushed on the rubber.

 

IWE = https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...then-some.html

Tierod ends - mine came right off. A little penetrant and some good wrenchin'





MGD

 

If you are talking about taking them off the tie rod I used penetrant oil and let it set for a day. One end came right off the other I had to heat up with a torch. There is a nut that keeps it from moving and a squared off place on the tie rod itself that you can put a wrench on. The end that connects to the spindle can be taken off by beating the spindle at the connection point with a 2lb sledge. One or two hits usually does it.
IWE is on 4wd vehicles that are known to go bad on some vehicles. Mine were ok but started to hear a ratcheting sound on the drivers side. They were off vacumn.

 

i did tie rod ends also when i did my ball joints....i couldnt get them to budge....my last attempt...i used a small torch to heat em up real good and some penetrating oil....they spun right off...