Hey guys,

I've read all the spark plug threads I can find, and want to make sure I use the "best" plugs I can to help avoid future issues.

Here's my story: I bought it new in 2004. Later, I learned of the famous 'spark plugs break upon removal' issue. I had 37K miles on it at the time, and went ahead and changed my plugs then.

I blew out the spark plug holes with compressed air, soaked each one with PB blaster for about half an hour, and carefully went for it. I lucked out and got all eight out without any breaking.

They all came out very, very tight and creaking and groaning the whole way out. I would do a half a turn, spary some PB down there, and reverse direction, turning them back and then reversing them again and bring them out a little further each time.

I was sweating bullets, because at that time the Lisle tool wasn't yet out, and back then the standard for broken plugs was head removal.

Anyways, I now have 124K and have developed a miss under load. P0305 is stored (#5 misfire). I plan on changing all the plugs and the #5 Coil.

I used anti-seize on the heat shields, (but not the electrode bridge) and also a small, thin dab on the threads when I did them at 37K miles.

Do you think they should come out easier this time?

And what is the proper motorcraft plug to use? SP515? I can't remeber what the motorcraft part number was I used before, it's been a few years.

Any suggestions to ensure this goes smooth? I guess having the Lisle tool handy is the best thing I can think of.

Thanks for any advice on this.

 

SP515 is the current recommendation.

Have a Lisle tool available, and use the crack loose/soak method. The current soak recommendation is carb cleaner.

Something else that helps is to get an intake cleaning (BG or Motorvac) done, or at least run Techron through a couple tanks of gas beforehand to loosen and burn off the carbon.

 

glc, thanks. Is the SP515 still a two-piece plug?

I like the idea of going with1 piece plugs, but I am not a fan of Champion plugs.

 

Also, one more question. Reading through all the plug threads here, it seems there are 3 differnt way the two-piec plugs can break.

Does the Lisle tool handle all three ways?

 

Don't fear the Champs - done correctly they work just fine.

Don't wait so long between changes!

Use NEW boots.

The Lisle will handle all thre currently seen brekage modes.

MGD

 

Yeah, I'm gonna start changing them at 50K.

So in your opion, using the Champs is just fine? I've always been big on using OEM parts. But I like that they make a one piece design for this application.

I wish I had the new heads. Oh well...

 

would a swivel extension be needed? I'm tempted to just pull them with a normal 9/16 socket instead of a spark plug socket.

 

Yes, swivel required. I think. I did mine a few years ago. I think the plug socket I bought was a swivel type. I'd have to go look at it. Maybe not required, don't remember.

If this was a normal engine with normal spark plugs, I would say sure, go for it with a regular 9/16's deep socket.

But with this insane head design, the odds are really stacked against you, trying to remove these things without breaking them off. A spark-plug socket will have that rubber insert inside that supports the porcelain part of the spark-plug.

 

The SP515's are fine as long as you properly apply antiseize and change them every 60k.

 

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...lugs-done.html

[youtube]iIQevez-DG0[/youtube]

It doesn't look the guy in the vid used a swivel. I'll test fit every plug to make sure it fits correctly.

 

That's reassuring to hear.

So you think mine will come out easy this time? They have almost 90K. I used whatever the current motorcraft plug was in 2005, can't remember the PN.

And, I used anti-seize.

 

youre not supposed to apply anti-seize fyi. i mean you made it this far just fine so no biggy, but the coating on the new 515s is anti-seize. i just did the plugs on my 5.4 and asked the same questions as you, and everyone including my dealer said noooooo anti-seize. and yeah 515 is 1 piece but dealer still recomends every 60k. not to burst your bubble, but my dealer did fuel treatment, intake treatment, and soaked them overnight and 3 still broke. so just be preparred ya know

 

Sir.

The barrel/ground shield on the SP515 is still the exact same size as the previous versions. This had been confirmed via direct measurement.

The SP515 is still a 2-piece plug - albeit one that appears to be slightly more 'sound' in the crimp area.

Hi-temp Nckel ( NOT copper) anti-sieze is still specified - IN THE TSB, which has NOT be superseded or retracted - to be applied to the ground shield to minimize seizure @ the next change, no more than 60K hence. You are correct, though - no A/S on the threads is specified.

The root cause and physics of this issue have not gone away, sadly.

Seems the end-users are getting at least (or more) adept at removal without breakage than some of the dealers. Seems the savvy dealers are using an impact on a warm engine with great results - and no protracted soak - in & out in 2 hours or less. Yer dealer appears a bit behind the times....

MGD

 

Did you even watch the video???

How is it he can hold the impact gun at a 45º angle to the head if he wasn't using a swivel?

 

Sorry, you have been given incorrect information.