Dome Lights and Door ajar
#1
Dome Lights and Door ajar
Been having this problem for a while and decided to replace the switches on the door. I noticed that while replacing them that no power was going to them. At least on the drivers side, but I hadn't checked the passenger when I was at it. Don't know how much power goes to them, but I checked with my tester light.
Both switches were replaced and of course it says the door is still ajar. I tried switching around the relays to see if that solved my problem, and it didn't. Checked all the fuses and nothing bad.
Can anyone help me? Is the relay for this in the fuse box? What other possible cause am I overlooking?
Both switches were replaced and of course it says the door is still ajar. I tried switching around the relays to see if that solved my problem, and it didn't. Checked all the fuses and nothing bad.
Can anyone help me? Is the relay for this in the fuse box? What other possible cause am I overlooking?
#2
You don't say what year your truck is or whether you are having any other problem than just the dome lights and door ajar. Those both should go through the BSM (Body security module) which if your truck is a '04-up (new body) would be behind the rear seat on the left side. You're probably not going to see anything even if you took it out because it's all electronics. I( would encourage you to do a search because there are quite a few who have had similar problems because of a wire junction in the left rocker panel channel that has corroded. You might want to search for that 1st and check that it is not corroded.
Your power door locks are fused with a 30A square fuse in the row next to the bottom in the right kick panel fuse box. (# 107) The power windows are on a 30A circuit breaker (# 401) in the row right above that. I don't believe they are probably your problem though. If your truck is '07 or later, the fuse box is different.
Your power door locks are fused with a 30A square fuse in the row next to the bottom in the right kick panel fuse box. (# 107) The power windows are on a 30A circuit breaker (# 401) in the row right above that. I don't believe they are probably your problem though. If your truck is '07 or later, the fuse box is different.
#3
Thanks, it's a 2004 F150 XLT. At least I think it's an XLT, cause it has 2 doors but 2 mini doors as well. It has manual windows.
BSM sounds like a good place to start looking cause I wasn't getting power to the door ajar switches. Just so I know, is it under the seat or behind the plastic against the wall?
BSM sounds like a good place to start looking cause I wasn't getting power to the door ajar switches. Just so I know, is it under the seat or behind the plastic against the wall?
#4
Ok I have some updates. I tried to look for this BSM and I can't find it. I removed the plastic cover from the back wall and I see nothing. Probably makes sense since I have no power windows or power locks either. Also, I checked the door sticker and it says 09/05, which I guess means it isn't an 04, but an 05 or 06? It's probably not an XLT either then.
All I know is that it's an F150 and it has a problem with the dome lights. There must be a relay somewhere for this.
All I know is that it's an F150 and it has a problem with the dome lights. There must be a relay somewhere for this.
#5
Did a bit more digging and found this under the drivers side chair. The chair isn't electric so I thought it must be something else. Could this be the BSM? None of the connections inside look bad either. Just pulled it out to show. Also checked the wires that run along side and didn't see anything burnt.
Also pulled all the relays in the fuse box to see if any of them effected the dome light, and they do not. The light will go out though after a while, but opening the doors won't turn them back on. Not unless I turn the key on.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Also pulled all the relays in the fuse box to see if any of them effected the dome light, and they do not. The light will go out though after a while, but opening the doors won't turn them back on. Not unless I turn the key on.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Last edited by dlolos; 08-20-2012 at 06:37 PM.
#6
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Decided to do one last look around, cause I woke up to a dead battery again. Decided to check under the dash and saw this. Lots of custom wiring for what I guess is for the hitch. Though I checked the connections and found nothing lose or shorting. There is a relay that I have no idea what it's for. Maybe someone here might?
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Then there's the side which has more stuff and a relay, though that relay looks like it's part of the hitch mechanism.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Then there's the side which has more stuff and a relay, though that relay looks like it's part of the hitch mechanism.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
#9
SOLVED... sorta
Out of desperation I started messing with spots on the dash, and found the interior light switch would allow the interior lights to go off if I pushed it in. Wasn't that at all, as I started pushing in the entire dash until I worked my way to the Instrument Cluster. Took it off and and started messing with it, with the lights flickering on and off like crazy.
So something is wrong with the Instrument Cluster. What I did for now was that I used contact lubricant and dielectric grease on the connections, which were top left and right. Put it all back together and banged the dash a few times and the lights still work perfectly. Nothing I do seems to cause the problem anymore.
Though it may seem fixed for now, I have a feeling it's bad solder joints. I just didn't know the dome lights and everything revolved around the Instrument Cluster. For now, everything seems to work just fine. I could have fixed it, or I just agitated it. Who knows.
Did anyone else run into this problem, and was it solder joints or a dirty connection? The best part was that I did have the dealer look at it a few months ago, and they told me "Needs driver and passenger side door pins ". Charged me $140 for the report. They didn't even tell me the part #'s for those, which I found on my own to be 13713 for LH and 14018 for RH. I'm still fighting them through my credit card company, and I just found out their mechanics suck *****. Some diagnostic, they just freaking guessed.
So something is wrong with the Instrument Cluster. What I did for now was that I used contact lubricant and dielectric grease on the connections, which were top left and right. Put it all back together and banged the dash a few times and the lights still work perfectly. Nothing I do seems to cause the problem anymore.
Though it may seem fixed for now, I have a feeling it's bad solder joints. I just didn't know the dome lights and everything revolved around the Instrument Cluster. For now, everything seems to work just fine. I could have fixed it, or I just agitated it. Who knows.
Did anyone else run into this problem, and was it solder joints or a dirty connection? The best part was that I did have the dealer look at it a few months ago, and they told me "Needs driver and passenger side door pins ". Charged me $140 for the report. They didn't even tell me the part #'s for those, which I found on my own to be 13713 for LH and 14018 for RH. I'm still fighting them through my credit card company, and I just found out their mechanics suck *****. Some diagnostic, they just freaking guessed.
Last edited by dlolos; 08-21-2012 at 08:30 PM.
#10
The model of the truck, as I said, is on the front fender badges under F-150. If yours is a XL with a 4.6, it should say "XL Triton". If it were a STX (possible), I believe there will be STX decals on the bed sides.
#11
Looks more like an aftermarket alarm system. If it is an alarm system they use relays in the ignition system (cut into the wire) and there may be another relay also. I think you probably found the source of the problem in the connections. I wouldn't use dialectric grease though because that is a non- or neutral conductor. I have had experience with the "gremlins" problem and finally did cure it but mine is an XLT so it has more electronics, and yes, there is a TON that goes through the printed circuit board on the back of the cluster. ( it is a whole lot more than just a printed circuit board)
Do you have remotes for the alartm system (if that's what it is)?
Took a look again at the pictures and it looks, from the 2 flat blade plugs, like the system is probably disabled. (left in place but disconnected)
Do you have remotes for the alartm system (if that's what it is)?
Took a look again at the pictures and it looks, from the 2 flat blade plugs, like the system is probably disabled. (left in place but disconnected)
Last edited by code58; 08-22-2012 at 04:03 AM.
#12
Do you have remotes for the alartm system (if that's what it is)?
Took a look again at the pictures and it looks, from the 2 flat blade plugs, like the system is probably disabled. (left in place but disconnected)
Took a look again at the pictures and it looks, from the 2 flat blade plugs, like the system is probably disabled. (left in place but disconnected)