I have a 2009 F-150 XLT and am wanting to put a sub in my truck. I have been searching around and can't find anyone who has found where the factory wiring harness is in the truck. Where exactly did you find yours??? Or, did you have to have Ford install one for you???? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

 

heres you guys go:

clearance the sub has to the ground:

box doesnt protrude out:

top of the box:

bottom of box:

and the sub(i stand corrected, its a W1, and still puts out a good amount of bass, these sub are under rated in terms of power they can take, i have 600 watts going to it):

 

There was a company making a spacer to raise the back seat up in the 04-08 Crew Cabs, is there any reason you couldn't do that on the 2009?

http://www.lmiwelding.com/kits_supercab.htm

 

Thats exactly what i dont want to do. The seat is resting on the sub box and taking all the weight of the person sitting on it. There is 5.5inch's on room between the botton of the rear seat and the floor without someone sitting on it. That means you lose 1.5" because of wood thickness then you have the Sub surround and roughly 1cm of Excursion so roughly another 1" thats 2.5" off the 5.5". plus another -1" if someone sits on the seat. Thats also without airspace gap between sub and seat/floor. So your left with a max of 3" For a sub frame or 2" if you account for the seat drop of an inch. Thats why my box is designed like it is so that the box follows the contours of the seat and the sub is angled to fit it into a smaller box.

 

when someone is sitting on the seat i can slide the box out....all the weight of the seat is NOT resting on the box

but to each their own...your gonna drop over 700 on your sub and amp and box...im not saying anyone is wrong but your going for a very high end sub with a non-high end sound system

 

Well lets put it this way. My wife weights 120lbs and she sat on the seat and it dropped by an inch. That leaves 4.5" thats about the mounting depth of a 10W1v2 and thats without the thickness of the wood taken into account plus the airpsace needed between surfaces. I put an old Rockford fostage 10" sub under the seat with a mounting depth of about 5" without it in a box and the seat hit the speaker foam. That was without someone sitting on the seat. I tryed putting the custom made 08 F150 box into the truck when i was at the shop also and that also hit the seat without having a speaker in it. There's very limited room under the seat and thats the reason the factory sub is so small. That also been design to account for the slack in the seat when someone sits on it.

 

Jeez, you '09 guys have it easy when it comes to building a sub box because of that flat floor. Us '04-'08 guys need a masters in carpentry to make one fit.

 

Nice detailed design of the box. Keep posting pics as you get this job completed.

 

(Updated)

 

Nice.... im stickin around for this one

 

I'm sorry. Why don't you want the seat sitting on the box. I have a box in my crewcab with the subs facing the floor and I have no problems with the box and people sitting on it. I have had three full sized men in the back. Oh, and they still hit pretty hard(two tens).

 

For one it's not a good way to design it and i dont like to bodge stuff when i do it. Why have the seat resting on the box putting stress on the plastic latch when i can design and make a box that will fit perfect and let me get a good Subwoofer into it also. I could have got a 08 box in there for far less effort and time but it looks crap and the seat will never sit at the correct angle. If you want the seat resting on the box then thats upto you but i would rather it look good and function well.

 

Barritia, are you making it so that this box and sub are easily removable in the event that you want to utilize the flat load floor feature that the supercrew offers?

I really love the idea that you're putting together here and depending on how it turns out, I may ask you for your advice on exactly what is needed and how to go about doing it, but I want to make sure I can quickly disconnect it and remove it if needed.

 

just so you guys know, he isnt using a cheap sub...that sub online runs $350, im guessing the dealer wants at least $400 for it

 

Other brands do make shallow subs almost the same dimensions as the JL audio one is for about $170-200. The one i have is $569. Beware though that you can get this sub for as cheap as $350 but you will not get the 2 year warrenty plus there's a lot of copys going about. I seen one with my own eyes and am amazed at how much they look like the real thing. But they def aint the qaulity of the real thing. Also you dont need to go as silly as i have on the amp. You can get a 200-300w true RMS amp that will drive a cheaper sub more than well. Im on the extreme limits of what this sub can handle but it's better for the amp not to be running 100% all the time. It really only needs 350w RMS.
The good thing about going with a qulity brand like JL Audio is you get what it says on the box. If it says 500w it will be putting out 500w. I see so many amps in the shop that had the same power rateing as the JL Amp at less than half the size. It's tempting to go for a amp at 1/5th the cost because it displays the same power output so dont get sucked in. I nearly did when i see a Kenwood amp with 600w slapped on the front. Looked at the fuse and it was a 20amp lol. So it was lucky to be putting out 250watts let alone 600w.