Bambi Mod on 2009
#31
:((
sorry guys no bambi jumping with the new f150... to say it easily ford use a new central smart box, allowing even basic model trucks to have tpms, as well all of ur systems on u dashboard... i wish it was as easy as the old kit.. bend a ear and ground it out.. didnt get much either... too bad. maybe the new aftermark computer will be able to tune more than ur engine and tranny... keeping my fingers crossed!
#32
It can be done, but no where as easy as the 97-08 MY trucks.
The fog lamp relay is now a non serviceable item in the SJB ( Smart Junction Box ), and the functions are now controlled by the SJB ( same for the headlamps, etc ).
The easiest route I have found is to remove the pins from the SJB connector, for the fog lamp circuit, and the trigger from the switch. These are in 3 different connectors on the SJB.
Easy part is to use an Add-a-fuse to get the power from the Fog lamp fuse slot, to power the relay.
One thing the owners manual does not make note of, are the fuses mini or low profile mini fuses ( thought I read they were low profile mini fuses )?
The one thing that gets me, if the fog lamp fuse is hot at all times, which could be a problem. Might want to add a relay to control this to be hot in run position, or with the parking lamps ( or take the gamble on using another hot in run position to power the fog lamps ).
This is version 1.0 that I have come up with for the 2009 + MY trucks.
The fog lamp relay is now a non serviceable item in the SJB ( Smart Junction Box ), and the functions are now controlled by the SJB ( same for the headlamps, etc ).
The easiest route I have found is to remove the pins from the SJB connector, for the fog lamp circuit, and the trigger from the switch. These are in 3 different connectors on the SJB.
Easy part is to use an Add-a-fuse to get the power from the Fog lamp fuse slot, to power the relay.
One thing the owners manual does not make note of, are the fuses mini or low profile mini fuses ( thought I read they were low profile mini fuses )?
The one thing that gets me, if the fog lamp fuse is hot at all times, which could be a problem. Might want to add a relay to control this to be hot in run position, or with the parking lamps ( or take the gamble on using another hot in run position to power the fog lamps ).
This is version 1.0 that I have come up with for the 2009 + MY trucks.
Last edited by SSCULLY; 12-10-2009 at 12:55 PM. Reason: Uploaded the wrong diagram, now corrected
#33
I like they way SSCULLY did it, here is what I thought:
I see alot of the replies question why do you want this etc. Hey it's your truck and to be honest I may do it someday.
Oh well here it goes, I referrenced the 2009 F150 wiring diagrams to come up with this solution. The 2004-2008 wiring diagrams are totally different.
For the 09's Ford has installed a solid state controller / fuse panel called the SJB, Smart Junction Box:
FORD believes the SJB increases reliability and lowers manufacturing costs.
the SJB / fuse panel is located behind the right hand (passenger side) kick panel
the bad news: several controls (relays) are now solid state, so altering them is not a real option. This includes the fog light "relay" the wiring diagram sez "not serviceable", so if it quits some day it sounds expensive, so a work around is in order.
So how I would keep the factory fog lights on with the High Beams?
I would make the fog lights operate off the running lights
C1023 is the connector to the drivers side running light
pin #2 (18 gauge wire, the center of 3 pins) of C1023 is the +12v going to the light
I would tap the wire from pin #2 to control a new fog light relay / rated for >20 amp & >12VDC, the extra load of the relay coil should be OK, the circuit for the running lights is fed from F22 (15amp).
Fuse F21 (15 amp) feeds the fog lights, the owners manual page 316 tells us the fuse panel (SJB) is located under the right-hand side of the instrument panel.
I would remove F21, tap into the "hot side" and install a 15 amp inline fuse then run the power to the relay contacts. Pick up the power coming out of the relay contacts and go to the connectors to the fog lights, C152 & C162.
(Or better yet, so you don't need to find a way to the engine compartment from the cab, remove F21 and tap off the battery with a 15amp fuse to feed the circuit)
@ C152 & C162 I would remove & insulate pin B (18 gauge wire, the +, not the ground) and install the new wiring from the new relay. Or better yet you could buy the 2 connectors from Ford, Pin A is ground and Pin B would be the +12v from your relay.
Then to return to OEM functionality, reinstall F21 and plug in the original C152 & C162.
Results should be the fog lights would be on whenever the running lights are on.
Oh well here it goes, I referrenced the 2009 F150 wiring diagrams to come up with this solution. The 2004-2008 wiring diagrams are totally different.
For the 09's Ford has installed a solid state controller / fuse panel called the SJB, Smart Junction Box:
FORD believes the SJB increases reliability and lowers manufacturing costs.
the SJB / fuse panel is located behind the right hand (passenger side) kick panel
the bad news: several controls (relays) are now solid state, so altering them is not a real option. This includes the fog light "relay" the wiring diagram sez "not serviceable", so if it quits some day it sounds expensive, so a work around is in order.
So how I would keep the factory fog lights on with the High Beams?
I would make the fog lights operate off the running lights
C1023 is the connector to the drivers side running light
pin #2 (18 gauge wire, the center of 3 pins) of C1023 is the +12v going to the light
I would tap the wire from pin #2 to control a new fog light relay / rated for >20 amp & >12VDC, the extra load of the relay coil should be OK, the circuit for the running lights is fed from F22 (15amp).
Fuse F21 (15 amp) feeds the fog lights, the owners manual page 316 tells us the fuse panel (SJB) is located under the right-hand side of the instrument panel.
I would remove F21, tap into the "hot side" and install a 15 amp inline fuse then run the power to the relay contacts. Pick up the power coming out of the relay contacts and go to the connectors to the fog lights, C152 & C162.
(Or better yet, so you don't need to find a way to the engine compartment from the cab, remove F21 and tap off the battery with a 15amp fuse to feed the circuit)
@ C152 & C162 I would remove & insulate pin B (18 gauge wire, the +, not the ground) and install the new wiring from the new relay. Or better yet you could buy the 2 connectors from Ford, Pin A is ground and Pin B would be the +12v from your relay.
Then to return to OEM functionality, reinstall F21 and plug in the original C152 & C162.
Results should be the fog lights would be on whenever the running lights are on.
Last edited by joendoodle; 02-10-2010 at 09:14 PM.
#34
I've been reading this post. I wired my KC light relay into the fog lights so that when I pull the **** in the cab, the fog lights come on and cause the relay to turn on the KC lights. I didn't want to run a switch for the KC lights to the cab.
So, I was coming home tonight and wanted to turn on the high beams and KC lights at the same time, but guess what.....the fog lights went out and turned off my KC lights when I turned on the high beams...
So, I will now have to run the KC relay switch in to the cab to have the high beams and the kC lights. Sure wish the fog lights was independant from the high beam shut off. Like to have high beams, KC and fog lights all at the same time.
If anyone figures out how to have the fog lights independant, let me know. Not really inclined to start cutting wires on the fog lights... I will have to think about it.
If I read the posts correctly, if you ground the fog light relay, it stays on while high beams are activated. What happens when the fog light switch is off? It cuts power and thus shuts off the fog lights with this modification, right? If it does, than I can have the fog lights and KC lights independent of the high beam shut off and still be able to shut the fog lights and KC lights when I don't need them.
So, I was coming home tonight and wanted to turn on the high beams and KC lights at the same time, but guess what.....the fog lights went out and turned off my KC lights when I turned on the high beams...
So, I will now have to run the KC relay switch in to the cab to have the high beams and the kC lights. Sure wish the fog lights was independant from the high beam shut off. Like to have high beams, KC and fog lights all at the same time.
If anyone figures out how to have the fog lights independant, let me know. Not really inclined to start cutting wires on the fog lights... I will have to think about it.
If I read the posts correctly, if you ground the fog light relay, it stays on while high beams are activated. What happens when the fog light switch is off? It cuts power and thus shuts off the fog lights with this modification, right? If it does, than I can have the fog lights and KC lights independent of the high beam shut off and still be able to shut the fog lights and KC lights when I don't need them.
#36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vecte
There is actually a valid reason to have the fogs on, along with the hi-beams. The only areas I use my hi-beams in, the roads are frequent crossings for deer. The way the fog lights are designed, they help illuminate the ditches/side of the road better, which can help prevent a bad accident.
I live in a area with lots of Deer, on any given evening if I shine a light behind my house in the field I can see anywhere from 10-20 deer easy. I see deer constantly on the roads around here in the fall and winter.
I however do not understand how the fog lights help you with deer. Yes they shine wide to the sides, however they do not shine very far in front at all. The issue is at only 35 MPH you are traveling 51 feet in only one second. My fogs don't shine any further than that. Now at 55 MPH you travel 80 feet in one second, so you have about a half a second to react.
I don't see how the fog light help other than giving you a false sense of security. No one has that kind of reflexes. Yes the light will let you see the deer, however you won't have time to do anything about it and will still hit it if it jumps in the road..
Originally Posted by Vecte
There is actually a valid reason to have the fogs on, along with the hi-beams. The only areas I use my hi-beams in, the roads are frequent crossings for deer. The way the fog lights are designed, they help illuminate the ditches/side of the road better, which can help prevent a bad accident.
I live in a area with lots of Deer, on any given evening if I shine a light behind my house in the field I can see anywhere from 10-20 deer easy. I see deer constantly on the roads around here in the fall and winter.
I however do not understand how the fog lights help you with deer. Yes they shine wide to the sides, however they do not shine very far in front at all. The issue is at only 35 MPH you are traveling 51 feet in only one second. My fogs don't shine any further than that. Now at 55 MPH you travel 80 feet in one second, so you have about a half a second to react.
I don't see how the fog light help other than giving you a false sense of security. No one has that kind of reflexes. Yes the light will let you see the deer, however you won't have time to do anything about it and will still hit it if it jumps in the road..
#39
OK, heres my take. I use my "driving" lights when I am driving to work at 4 am mostly for the visibility although it be minimal, but also I run them so the jerks that flash their hi-beams at me might be able to figure out if I have my "driving" lights on, I do NOT have my hi-beams on. These headlights must be pretty bright as I have at least one vehicle a day that gives me the hi-beam flash as they think I have mine on, which I don't. THAT annoys me much more than anyone running with their "driving" lights on, especially when they blind me with their hi-beams! Just my .02
Last edited by D8Chumley; 09-12-2010 at 02:36 PM.
#40
I just want all the lights to work when I want them too. I don't need any sort of reason why. If I want to run my fog lights at the deer lease...it's just the way I want it. I don't really care if it's not the best for spotting bambi. Maybe it just looks cool to have all lights on at once to illuminate all depths of field
#41
OK, heres my take. I use my "driving" lights when I am driving to work at 4 am mostly for the visibility although it be minimal, but also I run them so the jerks that flash their hi-beams at me might be able to figure out if I have my "driving" lights on, I do NOT have my hi-beams on. These headlights must be pretty bright as I have at least one vehicle a day that gives me the hi-beam flash as they think I have mine on, which I don't. THAT annoys me much more than anyone running with their "driving" lights on, especially when they blind me with their hi-beams! Just my .02
Have you leveled your truck? Did you adjust your headlights afterward? Did you put HD lights in?
I have not got flashed once it the 16K miles I put on my truck. Mine is completely stock in both areas though...
#42
#43
I've been reading this post. I wired my KC light relay into the fog lights so that when I pull the **** in the cab, the fog lights come on and cause the relay to turn on the KC lights. I didn't want to run a switch for the KC lights to the cab.
So, I was coming home tonight and wanted to turn on the high beams and KC lights at the same time, but guess what.....the fog lights went out and turned off my KC lights when I turned on the high beams...
So, I will now have to run the KC relay switch in to the cab to have the high beams and the kC lights. Sure wish the fog lights was independant from the high beam shut off. Like to have high beams, KC and fog lights all at the same time.
If anyone figures out how to have the fog lights independant, let me know. Not really inclined to start cutting wires on the fog lights... I will have to think about it.
If I read the posts correctly, if you ground the fog light relay, it stays on while high beams are activated. What happens when the fog light switch is off? It cuts power and thus shuts off the fog lights with this modification, right? If it does, than I can have the fog lights and KC lights independent of the high beam shut off and still be able to shut the fog lights and KC lights when I don't need them.
So, I was coming home tonight and wanted to turn on the high beams and KC lights at the same time, but guess what.....the fog lights went out and turned off my KC lights when I turned on the high beams...
So, I will now have to run the KC relay switch in to the cab to have the high beams and the kC lights. Sure wish the fog lights was independant from the high beam shut off. Like to have high beams, KC and fog lights all at the same time.
If anyone figures out how to have the fog lights independant, let me know. Not really inclined to start cutting wires on the fog lights... I will have to think about it.
If I read the posts correctly, if you ground the fog light relay, it stays on while high beams are activated. What happens when the fog light switch is off? It cuts power and thus shuts off the fog lights with this modification, right? If it does, than I can have the fog lights and KC lights independent of the high beam shut off and still be able to shut the fog lights and KC lights when I don't need them.
since this thread has turned into opinions upon opinions, i'll share mine. KY state law says that i can have 3 lights operational in addition to however many lights the vehicle came with from the factory. in my case 7 lights if i wanted. i'll gladly run all 7. it keeps me more safe from the boogie man.
#44
its not necessarily being able to see the deer running out into the road and having mongoose like reflexes to stop. its the fact that you can see the deer that are on the side of the road whether it be their bodies or the reflection from their eyes. point being - deer are stupid enough to run towards the light and noise. being able to see them when they're standing there like a cow looks at an oncoming train gives you enough time to slow down and let them assess the situation and decide whether to run out in front of your now slowed vehicle or to go the direction they're supposed to. away.
since this thread has turned into opinions upon opinions, i'll share mine. KY state law says that i can have 3 lights operational in addition to however many lights the vehicle came with from the factory. in my case 7 lights if i wanted. i'll gladly run all 7. it keeps me more safe from the boogie man.
since this thread has turned into opinions upon opinions, i'll share mine. KY state law says that i can have 3 lights operational in addition to however many lights the vehicle came with from the factory. in my case 7 lights if i wanted. i'll gladly run all 7. it keeps me more safe from the boogie man.
I really don't understand your logic if you are talking about the Stock Fog lights which was the original intent of this thread. They just don't shine far enough to do anything. No you won't even have time to remove your foot from the gas pedal after seeing a deer. If you can recognize it as a deer and do something useful in a half a second you are super human. I am not saying stop either just do something and a half a second will get you nowhere.
Now on the flip side the installation of off road lights on an individual switch could be useful if they are focused so they shine a few hundred feet down the road. Then you have a chance to do something. In this case I just ask that you exercise caution in turning them off at the first sign of an oncoming car.
#45
I really don't understand your logic if you are talking about the Stock Fog lights which was the original intent of this thread. They just don't shine far enough to do anything. No you won't even have time to remove your foot from the gas pedal after seeing a deer. If you can recognize it as a deer and do something useful in a half a second you are super human. I am not saying stop either just do something and a half a second will get you nowhere.
Now on the flip side the installation of off road lights on an individual switch could be useful if they are focused so they shine a few hundred feet down the road. Then you have a chance to do something. In this case I just ask that you exercise caution in turning them off at the first sign of an oncoming car.
Now on the flip side the installation of off road lights on an individual switch could be useful if they are focused so they shine a few hundred feet down the road. Then you have a chance to do something. In this case I just ask that you exercise caution in turning them off at the first sign of an oncoming car.
I also drive only very rural roads, and have hit my share of deer. And you are right - our factory fogs do nothing to help that situation.
This is why I have started rigging up a pair of driving lights for my truck. They will be wired to fire only with the high-beams thus giving me the extra light when I am by myself on the road. When I encounter another vehicle, simply flipping my lights back to low beam will kill the driving lights.