Power Tailgate Lock?
#61
Thought I would chime in here .. Heres the deal I have had a POP N LOCK on order from Etrailer.com since March 16th it keeps getting delayed . Now of course I am fed up with this so I found out much to my surprise that the manufacturer is right here in Ontario CRAP so I pick up the phone and call them, the guys tells me YEP!! we are out of stock where did you order it from "Etrailer.com" He tells me never heard of the they are most likely selling you a cheap Chinese copy... Go to Van and Truck World in your area see if they have any if not the Model 8250 should fit. Of course this place has none nowhere in any of their Canadian locations. And for me should fit isnt good enough!!!
Long story short I ordered the LK370 Pace Edwards version from said Van and Truck World in my area . On its way should have it by Monday
Long story short I ordered the LK370 Pace Edwards version from said Van and Truck World in my area . On its way should have it by Monday
#63
Search for "12V Universal 2 Wire Power Car Door Lock Actuator 7Ca" on eBay. It's about $4. I can't believe you guys are paying $120 for the Dynolock. From what I can see of the pics they have for other vehicles (pic not available for '09+ F150) it looks like its almost the exact same thing I bought but it has a metal plate attached. What's the big difference?
You wire the actuator to your door locks (located in the driver's door sill) and your tailgate will lock / unlock with your key fob. Install wasn't hard but did take some time since I hadn't done it before. It's worked every time for me since I installed it and I keep testing it just for the sake of doing so.
And for the record, I can still use my key with my newly installed actuator. There is a slight pressure when turning the key but nothing so major I'd ever worry my key would break off or anything, just enough pressure to remind me the latching mechanism is pushing / pulling the actuator arm. But at least if the arm broke or my wiring died I can still use the key.
Here are some incomplete, in-progress pics I had taken:
You wire the actuator to your door locks (located in the driver's door sill) and your tailgate will lock / unlock with your key fob. Install wasn't hard but did take some time since I hadn't done it before. It's worked every time for me since I installed it and I keep testing it just for the sake of doing so.
And for the record, I can still use my key with my newly installed actuator. There is a slight pressure when turning the key but nothing so major I'd ever worry my key would break off or anything, just enough pressure to remind me the latching mechanism is pushing / pulling the actuator arm. But at least if the arm broke or my wiring died I can still use the key.
Here are some incomplete, in-progress pics I had taken:
Last edited by sharper4; 06-16-2011 at 02:16 PM.
#65
Another tailgate lock installed! Used the universal actuator found on amazon.
My wiring scheme on my 2009 Lariat SCAB was Gray/Brown Stripe and LT. Blue/Lime Green Stripe. You must use the wires in the harness under the kick plate right next to the front seat. You can find both there. I did not use the splicer but instead peeled back a 1/4" of insulation on each wire and soldered the actuator leads to each. Then wrapped in electrical tape. I ran the wires thru the rubber grommet found in the rear area of the harness and back to the tailgate following an existing wiring loom that snakes its way over the gas tank and into the tailgate (I have the B/U camera). I wrapped the entire length in black split tubing. In order to follow the wiring loom all the way back, i had to drop the spare tire. Good thing that i did because if i ever had to change a flat at night it would have been a PITA to figure it out. I recommend everyone try and lower their spare just so they know how it works!!!
My wiring scheme on my 2009 Lariat SCAB was Gray/Brown Stripe and LT. Blue/Lime Green Stripe. You must use the wires in the harness under the kick plate right next to the front seat. You can find both there. I did not use the splicer but instead peeled back a 1/4" of insulation on each wire and soldered the actuator leads to each. Then wrapped in electrical tape. I ran the wires thru the rubber grommet found in the rear area of the harness and back to the tailgate following an existing wiring loom that snakes its way over the gas tank and into the tailgate (I have the B/U camera). I wrapped the entire length in black split tubing. In order to follow the wiring loom all the way back, i had to drop the spare tire. Good thing that i did because if i ever had to change a flat at night it would have been a PITA to figure it out. I recommend everyone try and lower their spare just so they know how it works!!!
Last edited by goliath; 06-18-2011 at 07:05 PM.
#66
#67
It will work - just make sure you get the right part. If you're going with the eBay route, then I don't know. Wiring is simple - the easiest way if you don't know your lock/unlock wiring colors, simple remove the door panel and look.
#68
Yes, it will work. I just don't know which two wires you would tap into on your year truck, nor do I know where they would be located (but the same general area is assumed, the driver's kickplate or sill). I'll poke around and see if I can't find the wire colors / location for you since you're not the first person to ask me.
#69
Thought I would chime in here .. Heres the deal I have had a POP N LOCK on order from Etrailer.com since March 16th it keeps getting delayed . Now of course I am fed up with this so I found out much to my surprise that the manufacturer is right here in Ontario CRAP so I pick up the phone and call them, the guys tells me YEP!! we are out of stock where did you order it from "Etrailer.com" He tells me never heard of the they are most likely selling you a cheap Chinese copy... Go to Van and Truck World in your area see if they have any if not the Model 8250 should fit. Of course this place has none nowhere in any of their Canadian locations. And for me should fit isnt good enough!!!
Long story short I ordered the LK370 Pace Edwards version from said Van and Truck World in my area . On its way should have it by Monday
Long story short I ordered the LK370 Pace Edwards version from said Van and Truck World in my area . On its way should have it by Monday
#70
Maybe you guys are installing yours differently that is preventing access to the locking mechanism from moving with the actuator in place with the key? I guess I'm confused as to why the POP-N-LOCK is preferred so much more. Is it just the security blanket of knowing that if you paid more it must be better?
#71
Forgive me, but why not just send it back and get one from eBay? It will save you $115 and allows you to still use your key?
Maybe you guys are installing yours differently that is preventing access to the locking mechanism from moving with the actuator in place with the key? I guess I'm confused as to why the POP-N-LOCK is preferred so much more. Is it just the security blanket of knowing that if you paid more it must be better?
Maybe you guys are installing yours differently that is preventing access to the locking mechanism from moving with the actuator in place with the key? I guess I'm confused as to why the POP-N-LOCK is preferred so much more. Is it just the security blanket of knowing that if you paid more it must be better?
#72
On the Pop-n-Lock, the correct version is the PL8250. The PL8255 had some fitting issues and has been discontinued. That's why it is unavailable. I emailed eTrailer.com about the correct part, They called the manufacturer (Pop-n-Lock) and got that information. They said that the 8250 would work, and it does. I put mine in a couple of weeks ago. The only problem I had was finding the right wires. And yes the key will still work.
#73
Well, it's done. I tried to get the working wires on the passenger side and from all the wiring lists, it says to use the gray/yellow & purple/gray. The gray/yellow had 12 volts and the purple/gray wire had nothing even with hitting the lock/unlock.
Still on the passenger side, I used the blue/green and gray/brown. I oriented the actuator so it pointed up inside the tailgate. Bent the mounting strap that came with the actuator into a box so it was 1" wide, drilled and countersunk 2 holes. The tricky part was connecting the plunger wire and the lock mechanism with that block with the 3 screws. You can tighten those through the existing blot holes with a thin screwdriver. I did run the wires/loom in the frame and through the grommet on the passenger side.
I got my actuator off eBay for $3.50 shipped, $9.00 for 2 X 30' of 16AWG auto wire (wire runs are about 20') , $1.50 for bullet connectors, $5.00 for 20' wire loom. Already had the wire taps, tape, and ties. Yeah, it only takes 20 bucks and a little work.
Thanks for all the inspiration.
geo
Still on the passenger side, I used the blue/green and gray/brown. I oriented the actuator so it pointed up inside the tailgate. Bent the mounting strap that came with the actuator into a box so it was 1" wide, drilled and countersunk 2 holes. The tricky part was connecting the plunger wire and the lock mechanism with that block with the 3 screws. You can tighten those through the existing blot holes with a thin screwdriver. I did run the wires/loom in the frame and through the grommet on the passenger side.
I got my actuator off eBay for $3.50 shipped, $9.00 for 2 X 30' of 16AWG auto wire (wire runs are about 20') , $1.50 for bullet connectors, $5.00 for 20' wire loom. Already had the wire taps, tape, and ties. Yeah, it only takes 20 bucks and a little work.
Thanks for all the inspiration.
geo
#75
Here's a link to another forum with a good write up. see post #22.
http://www.f150forum.com/f38/keyless...-73513/index3/
2011 trucks are the same color wires;blue/green for unlock and gray/brown for lock.
geo
http://www.f150forum.com/f38/keyless...-73513/index3/
2011 trucks are the same color wires;blue/green for unlock and gray/brown for lock.
geo