The fuse was located in the junction box at the front of the trailer frame. Its a Puma 25'' Travel Trailer. I never thought the problem could be from the TT as the manual slide worked fine. But after talking to my dad he told me he had the same thing happen to him last year on his 5th wheel and it was a fuse.

So i started to look at the trailer and found a burned fuse. I change it and now i get the brake output on the blank screen in the dash. Im guessing the manual and brake pedal are on different circuits. It never showed up before the fuse change. Now, i still dont hear a a buzzing noise while applying the foot brake but i hear it with the manual. I havent have time to test it yet. But im hoping that being able to see the brake output in the dash means everything is fine.

Good luck finding your problem Roy!

 

PT- Thanks for reply - I will open up my junction box tomorrow.. We have been having bad weather here all week so for ,,,

How hard do you puch in your trailer connector. I may not be doing it right. I have just placing it in the hole and then pushing it in so I can close the lid into a stop catch. Maybe you have to really push it in the stab the contacts real good...

I need to get down at EYE LEVEL with the connector and see if there is something I am missing... You know how it is when you get old - Its easy to get down but you need help getting back up... I guess you read where I heard the BUZZ sound on the 5th wheel after I really pushed hard on the trailer connector... I didnt know what the cost of new connectors was and doesnt look like they are all that expensive. ETRAILER selling the assemby for around $30 bucks... Now that I have seen it work I'm sure I will figure out what is wrong... Thanks for all the help...

 

I did get down at EYE LEVEL and looked at the TRUCK SIDE 7-PIN CONNECTOR. This is a two LID TYPE CONNECTOR that has the 7-PIN and the 4-PIN connectors there.

I was thinking there might be a different LATCH then before but all is the same as my OLD 2004 7-PIN CONNECTOR. ALL YOU CAN DO is INSERT the BODYD of the 7-PIN PLUG - WIGGLE IT A COUPLE OF TIME and then close the LID which has a CATCH on it to hold the PLUG IN PLACE.

I definatley like the OLD 7-PIN CONNECTOR BETTER as it really holds the 7-PIN plug in place wereasa the 2010 model lets it wobble around alot. The other day I had it connected and the LID locked in place and was wiggling it around and created a TRAILLER DISCONNECT message on the infomation PANEL...

You sure dont have any voltage present on the TRAILER SIDE CONNECTOR with the TRUCK TURNED OFF. I was thinking I should at least see the - and + 12VDC PINS having voltage on them but nothing anywhere... I guess you have to start up the truck or something...

That woould be interesting to see what other reader might have on your 2010 F150. The lid has a PIN OUT on it and shows which PIN the - and + 12VDC should be. I dont read anything there with the TRUCK NOT RUNNING. Didnt have my keys on me so didnt start up to see if I had voltage there or not... Maybe this comes from the TRAILER HOOKUP ???? I think ETRAILER.com has a good DIAGRAM showing the 7-PIN wiring schematic...
ETRAILER SAYs
PIN 1 WHITE - CONNECTS TO GROUND
PIN 2 BLUE - CONNECTS TO ELECTRIC BRAKES
PIN 3 GREEN or BROWN - CONNECTS TO TAIL/RUNNING LIGHTS
PIN 4 BLACK or ORANGE - CONNECTS to 12V POWER
PIN 5 RED or YELLOW - CONNECTS TO LEFT/STOP
PIN 6 BROWN or GREEN - CONNECTS to RIGHT/STOP
PIN 7 VARIES - EXTRA (Must be the CENTER PIN)

Waiting for the sun to come out some more before i go lay under my trailer and look at my 7-PIN JUNCTION BOX at the CONNECTION and a POSSIBLE IN-LINE FUSE on a CABLE like PT has on his trailer.

 

Sorry to jack your thread, but i have found the trailer brake controller that fits in the 2010 f150. It says for trucks built after 11/01/2010. Mine 2010 says 09/2009 on the door. My question is what is different about a 2010 buile then vs. the other dates?

 

Not JACKING the thread - I'm trying to keep it alive so that someone will read what I am up against and help me out haha... Hmm Ill have to look up my born-on date...

Mine is doing wierd things and so far I havent put my finger on the cause. If I take it back to FORD they will just run their BLACK BOX on it and it will say "ALL OK"...

I guess alot of folks dont use the TRAILER CONNECTIONS - at least ones that read this forum haha... Im almost at the ROPEs end here... It will work on my other TRAILER after I wiggle the heck out of the connector but wont work on my POPUP trailer which is the one I need to have it for...

The wierd things is it works just fine using the MANUAL SWITCH with your finger but doesnt do anythinig when you use the FOOT PEDAL... Sometimes I get a reading in an open information page when I use the foot pedal but goes away if something is using the information panel and I have to go look for the BRAKE info again.

One guy on here thinks he fixed his that was dooing the same thing mine was doing by replaceing a FUSE in the TRAILER. I cant imagine what a FUSE in the trailer has to do with anything.. Especially if mine works REAL GOOD when i use the MANUAL SWITCH.

Im about ready to tear out all my trailer wiring and put it all in one place a piece at a time. It is all mixed in wtih the POPUP CONVERTER wiring and I dont dont really know what goes where. All of my lights were working OK from the new TRUCK CONNECTOR - Only the BRAKE CONTROLLER part was having troubles. Of course it all worked just fine on this trailer with my OLD PRODIGY BRAKE CONTROLLER before I traded trucks...

I hate my RATS NEST wiring under the trailer anyway. Ive already cleaned a bunch of it up when I changed out my trailer CONVERTER - Time to separate COVERTER WIRING from BASIC TRAILER WIRING and get all under trailer wiring in PLASTIC PVC and Junction BOXES. Currently it just runs where it needs to go in all directions. This is an OFF ROAD trailer so I can imagine draging it through the woods with all these drooping wires running every which way under the trailer.

I still CANNOT IMAGINE any reason that the two systems need to be mixed with the TRAILER PULL SWICTH the only thing I can think of that will need TRAILER PROVIDED 12VDC in case the trailer gets DISCONNECTED and has to throw on the BRAKES to stop a run away trailer... I see some trailers just has a LARGE DRY CELL BATTERY for this reason. Even ETRAILER.com shows one in their TRAILER CONNECTOR VIDEO...

Maybe some trailers gets trickled charged from the TRUCK BATTERY through the TRAILER CONNECTION ??? All I know is I disconnect my trailer BATTERIES and all inside the TRAILER GOES DEAD except the basic trailer wiring items (LIGHTs and BRAKEs)

I still need to do more digging I guess...

 

Well the person selling these is an ebay seller. hes selling them for 130 bucks each for just the module. most with the tow package have all the harnesses already pre wired. fuses should be in the glove box. and i found a nice pictures display of installations with a write up. He told me that if the module is only for a truck after such date it wont be able to communicate with your truck. I also just went to ford today to get one and they wanted 348 dollars for it!!! There was also 4 different ones to pick from. So you have to make sure your build date and module dates corrispond apparantly. Thats just what i was told. So take it for what its worth. They may have slipped you the wrong module.

 

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...allations.html

 

Thanks Big Smokey - I will check into this... I'm not getting anywhere with what i am doing now hehe...

When its all over it will be something simple Im sure...

I'm feeling pretty good at the moment - I did find a SCHEMATIC of my trailer on internet awhile ago so I am confirming how close I am to the 2008 drawing. At least I can see what it is suppose to look like....

I bought the trailer new so if anything is wrong I have only me to blame...

Once i fugure who is at blame (me or Ford) i will take my truck in for them to look at it...

 

Hey Roy. Have you look at your fuse? I know you don't seem to believe it might be the problem. But my manual slide was working perfectly. It was locking the wheels a 4v. I'm guessing the manual and the brake are on different circuits for safety reasons. I wouldn't think it could be it, but my dad had the same problem and mine is fix as well now too.

Good luck

Cheers!

 

Hey PTEMOMO - I did look and havent found a FUSE yet... BUT things are looking up... Did a bunch of surfing the web and came up with several STARCRAFT TRAILER SCHEMATICS for both the appliances and standard trailer hookups. They ALL show my BARGMAN 7-way trailer side connector being used. The interesting thing is they ALL show a connection to the TRAILER BATTERY for PIN1 (WHITE WIRE) and PIN4 (BLACK WIRE) directly from the TRAILER BATTERY.

This will back up your find of the FUSE BLOWN in your junction box. These two PINS is where the trailer connects to the TRUCK to tell it the trailer is connected i bet and that turns it all on for the BRAKE PEDAL side. When in MANUAL MODE I bet the 12VDC comes from the TRUCK SIDE and thats why that only works with the truck not being connected to the trailer.

TODAY is a bright sunny day outside and I have my POPUP all setup since yesterday waiting for me to do some more tests. I bet in my BATTERY MODS I have done in recent time has removed that one tie through the trailer connector to the truck as the PRODIGY UNIT on my OLD TRUCK didnt need it. Me got OUTSMARTED haha...

The SCHEMATIC shows the BATTERY CONNECTION on the SECOND INSIDE TRAILER JUNCTION BOX in my POPUP along with the EMERGENCY PULL SWITCH also connected at that point and that is definately beyond my BATTERY DISCONNECT SWITCH arrangement i have installed.

I am real confident today I will have ELECTRIC BRAKES working in my popup. The test I did a couple of days ago when I hooked up to the 5th wheel also confirms this out as well. It doesnt even have a BATTERY installed and after cleaning up the ctrailer connections at the trailer plug it worked just fine. That thru me for another loop working without even a battery installed but I finally realized the 5th wheel was hooked up to SHORE POWER and the ON-BOARD CONVERTER was providing the BATTERY SIGNAL back to the truck.

Been a fun experience to say the least... TIME FOR AUTOCAD DRAWINGS to show all my electrical changes for sure when all of this is done...

Im still not happy with the way the new truck DUAL TRAILER 7-PIN/4-PIN CONNECTION BOX doesnt give you a real tight fit when plugged in. The LID closing on the end of the trailer connector is the only way that holds it in place just like my old trailer connection setup but this one is somewhat loose compared to the old one. Ill work on beefing that up after I see BRAKES working...

I'm gonna lay back a drink a couple of brewski's tonight around the fire pit if all of this works - You've been real helpful - thanks to your Dad as well haha... Here I am yaping about it working - The FAT LADY hasnt sang a word yet haha...

 

Me finally confirmed that my TRAILER WIRING going to TRUCK agrees with SCHEMATIC I just got. COLOR CODE wires agree too...

Came inside for a BREAK - Now I can put the cable back together and connect up my +12VDC fused lead from the BATTERY to the TRAILER BLACK WIRE and see what happens...

SINCE I have a BATTERY DISCONNECT SWITCH arrangement for my three GP 24 BATTERIES I will bypass the switch for this connection. I already have my center BATTERY being the one that CRANKS up the POPUP ELECTRIC MOTOR for raising the top so will use that for the TRAILER CONNECTOR too...

I burned out a 3157 BULB in POPUP testing with my small external battery - rats... It is a yard battery for yard trimmer and puts out 16V I think. Didnt think it would blow out anything haha... Another trip to WalMart I guess...

You can sure get confused looking at the trailer connectors - You dont know which side is being represented and gets you lead astray sometimes... You also cant use a VOM meter unless you disconnect the other end too... I wanted to inspect everything anyway..

FOR PTEMOMO: I did find two FUSES with pigtail leads in the harness when i was taking out my TRAILER CONNECTOR CABLE. Both were wired to my + side of the BATTERY BANK switch. One goes to the CONVETER which I have abandoned since I am running #4 GAUGE WIRE NOW and the other 30A FUSES disappears into the wiring harness which I bet ties into the BLACK lead of the TRAILER WIRING. This is on the POPUP side of the BATTERY DISCONNECT SWITCH so I want to see where this goes. Looks like I may my choice of the two fused wires to use and tie to the BLACK wire in the first TRAILER CONNECTOR junction box... My two wires from the EMERGENCY DISCONNECT SWITCH also disappears into the wiring harnes. I want to pull that back as well and connect up in the first junction box. I tried pulling the steel cable out of the disconnect switch box to see how that works but it wouldnt move so I left it alone haha...

 

Could you have a ground issue on the trailer brake circuit? A bad ground can cause a real nightmare.

 

JimmyB - I am thinking about that as well... Today is another bright sunny day so will hit it again in a alittle bit. I have a couple of abandoned wires issues that I did when upgrading to #4 GAUGE wire for the new BATTERY BANK. Got my POPUP setup again in the CAMP BACKYARD so can crawl around under it and inside checking stuff out. Me retired so NO HURRY getting it fixed... Just blows my mind that it works so great in MANUAL SLIDER MODE but not with BRAKE PEDAL... Im still makeing some headway - At least when its all over i will know where all the wiring goes haha...

 

JimmyB - Nice phot of your truck. Mine is GRAY in color - Mine didnt come with side steps so I moved the STEPS over from my 2004 F150 and was totally surprised all of the mounting holes lined up perfect. That saved a couple of hundred haha...

How much does your trailer weight - looks like a good setup with the 2011 F150... I guess all tows OK

 

ME GIVE UP.....
I removed my TRAILER 7-PIN CABLE ASSY and simulated normal hookup on my truck tail gate with WHITE wire being GND, BLACK wire being +12VDC with the -12VDC on the WHITE WIRE, and voltmeter reading the BLUE WIRE with negative lead on the WHITE wre.

MANUAL SLIDER SWITCH shows +10 VDC and can be adjusted up and down...
BRAKE PEDAL originally showed nothing as I had the voltage adjusted down to 3 VOLTS DC.
When I adjust the VOLTAGE UP as high as it will go then I read +1.2VDC on the BLUE WIRE.

I also ran a WHITE and BLUE wire back to the TRAILER ELECTRIC BRAKES. They work just fine using the MANUAL SLIDER SWITCH and still nothing at all using the BRAKE PEDAL. EVEN when I run the VOLTAGE up to MAXIMUM, still no electric brakes with the +1.2 VDC I am reading feeding the ELECTRIC BRAKES.

I have measured all the grounds I can find and this is not a PROBLEM. Everything i do keeps pointing to a BAD BRAKE MODULE.

THE BRAKE DISPLAY shows up in the INFORMATION DISPLAY on a CLEAR window but goes away when something else needs displayed. Then I have to step through it again to see the BRAKE INFO. It is INDICATING FULL SCALE BAR with either Manual SLider or Pushing on the BRAKE.....

Using the DC METER on the WHITE and BLUE WIRE feeding the ELECTRIC BRAKE I can measure the +1.2VDC and if I use the MANUAL slide switch at the same time I am pushing down on the BRAKE the voltage JUMPS UP to Almost 10VDC...

All of these tests are with the TRUCK MOTOR running...

When I take it to FORD I hope their TESTSET reads the actual VLOTAGE on the WHITE and BLUE wires. The DASH DISPLAY READINGs indicates all is OK...

Dont you just love these suppose to be simple problems haha...

In the meantime I have all but totally disassembled the trailer wiring tracing all of this out.. fun fun fun...