PTEMOMO - I just re-read some posts and I missed one from JIMMYB saying look in my GLOVEBOX and install a FUSE and a RELAY in SLOT 21 and 9. Did you do this on your 2010 F150... There wasnt any instruction but did notice in the USER MANUAL they both have something to do with TRAILER TOW BATTERY CHARGE... I definately have +12VDC now feeding PIN 4 BLACK WIRE of the trailer connector. I see the information VIEW now for the TRAILER CONNECTED and operates the GRAPHIC VOLTAGE BAR when I push on the BRAKE PEDAL. I am measuring the VOLTAGE on the BLUE WIRE and the WHITE WIRE and only get +1.2VDC when pushing the BRAKE PANEL. I read a full +10 VDC when using the MANUAL SLIDER which still stops my trailer wheels. The BRAKE PEDAL still doesnt do anything for me.

Just curious about what you did with the FUSE and RELAY that was in the GLOVEBOX. No one said anything to me about those two items at the dealer.

Is your's installed - my SLOTs 21 and 9 are empty...

 

PTEMOMO - I did go ahead and plugin the FUSE and RELAY I found in the GLOVEBOX but it didnt help my TRAILER ELECTRIC BRAKEs not working when pushing the BRAKE PEDAL. I still only measure +1.2VDC on the BLACK WIRE + and the WHITE WIRE -. The MANUAL SLIDER SWITCH still sends on +10VDC on these two wires.

I did learn something else - The TRAILER DISCONNECT information only goes out after I connect the BLUE and WIRE wires from the TRAILER CONNECTOR plug to the ELECTRIC BREAKS... Must detect DC current to turn OFF the TRAILER DISCONNECT and allow you to see the TRAILER BRAKE INFO in the INFORMATION WINDOW. I was thinking connecting the 12VDC from the TRAILER BATTERY to the BLACK CABLE + and the WHITE CABLE - GND was what turned it off... Not the case....

This means my MOCKUP connections on my TAIL GATE has to be connected to a ELECTRIC BRAKE to be able to see the info in the INFORMATION WINDOW when I press the FOOT PEDAL... I guess I had it CONFUSED before playing with it as I was seeing BRAKE INFO screen before but NOT THIS MORNING untill I connected the TRAILER ELECTRIC BREAKS up to my DEMO connections. I might add a 12VDC LAMP to the BLUE WIRE and WHITE WIRE and see if the truck will think that is my ELECTRIC BRAKES... Surely I gots a 12VDC BULB around here somewhere... That would be good to have a 12VDC lamp there anyway. I could see that lite up from the seat of the truck when I push the BRAKE PEDAL. (Good IDEA Roy Ken)

 

PTEMOMO - Learned something else a few minutes ago - I reconnected to the OTHER TRAILER (5TH) and it SHOWS TRAILER CONNECTED when I hook the BLUE and WHITE wires to its connector... I also just hooked up a GREEN WIRE which is suppose to be the TRAILER RUNNING LIGHTs to check I am going the right way around the CONNECTOR. The 5th WHEEL RUNNING LIGHTS came on...

Now when I APPRLY BRAKE PEDAL it DISPLAYS the same as my other POPUP trailer but MY VOLTMETER only indicate 1.2VDC. I can hear the ELECTRIC BRAKE TONE or BUZZ telling me it is getting voltage and working I think...

Now I need to read up on SPECS of ELECTIC BRAKES I guess and see what their normal OPERATING VOLTAGE is suppose to be... Maybe my POPUP trailer uses a model that requires more voltage ??? The POPUP sure works good at 10VDC feeding them but doesnt work with 1.2VDC feeding them like the 5th WHEEL TRAILER does ???

 

MRPOSITRACTION - Sorry but I guess I HIGHJACKED your THREAD - Sorry bout that Chief-

It appears I have beat my OEM FORD BRAKE CONTROLLER PROBLEM to death as well with no real resolution except I think the CONTROLLER is BAD... I hope I can convince FORD the same... I learned alot about RV ELECTRIC BRAKES if no other good comes out of this...

This will close out my additional 20-30 posts geeeschhh....

 

Has anyone figured out why there seems to be different part numbers for these controllers? I get that the 09 - 10 are different, but are the 10 - 11 the same?
The links for these two part numbers are below, but I found BL3Z 2C006-AA and AL3Z-19H332-AA which are drastically different numbers, and both listings claim they are for a 2010 f150.


Tasca is selling http://cgi.ebay.ca/Ford-F-150-Traile...item35b0711bde

There is another listing for http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=234499493791

I have read that there are 4 different controller available for 2010? What gives?

 

One post on here said the early 2010's that were made in 2009 have a different BRAKE CONTROLLER part number... Have to watch the BORN-ON date I guess...

 

Well, I got an email response from the folks at Tasca, they said......

Your build date is 3/22/10 which means that you will need OEM part number AL3Z19H332AA, the new number the BL3Z 2C006-AA is for post 9/10/10 trucks.

Maybe this might shed a little light for others looking to order....

 

they could shipped me your old one......... :>) that would work on my truck

 

um.... what? I don't have anything but a pocket...... That was a response when I asked them about which controller I needed, and questioned the validity of the part number differences. I gave them my VIN, and they looked it up.

 

I just looked at the BUILD DATE on my 2010 and it is 09/10 so I guess I am suppose to have the BL3Z 2C006-AA BRAKE CONTROLLER. Where would i find this number - Sure dont want to pull the controller out of the DASH - That looks complicated...

You would think the AL3Z BRAKE CONTROLLER would be for the 2010 model and the BL3Z would be for the the 2011 model. Did i miss something here...

 

Well, the way I read the message from Tasca is that the bl3z is POST 9/10. If your build date IS 9/10, then you are not POST. I read that is is more like from 11/10 forward. Although it might be, I doubt the number is on the part. It is usually on the box the part comes in for most parts.

 

Thanks - AT least all of this agrees now with earlier posts haha... I will stay with the AL3Z-19H332-AA number for my 2010 F150 FX4 truck built on 0910 when I finally see the FORD PEOPLE...

 

I finally went to FORD and they told me I had to be MOVING 5-10MPH to activate the BRAKE CONTROLLER while pushing the BRAKE PEDAL. I reassembled my POPUP BRAKE CABLE 7-pin connector today and remoted a cable from the BLUE and WHITE wires to a METER inside the truck cab. Did my MANUAL SLIDER SWITCH VOLTAGE SETUP by moving 20-25MPH which ended up being 3.5VDC this time. Then i did the same road test at about 20-25MPH with only using the BRAKE PEDAL. I immediately seen 2.5VDC on the TEST METER and truck started to stop. AT around 10MPH the BRAKE CONTROLLER DC VOLTAGE went away as FORD SAID it would. I continued on to the stop using the BRAKE PEDAL but was not seeing anything on my TEST VOLTMETER. FORD SAID the unit wasnt designed to continue to hold the ELECTRIC BRAKES when at the STOP POSITION. If you want to HOLD the position then USE THE MANUAL SLIDE SWITCH while you are stopped.

Im ready to move on to another project now as I have seen DC CONTROL VOLTAGE on my TEST METER coming from the BRAKE CONTROLLER MODULE higher than 1.2VDC when pushing on the BRAKE PEDAL.

 

Please humor a confused newby. I've had the truck 10 days.

I was about to order a trailer brake controller for my 2011 F-150 XLT 5.0 L.

Fordparts.com gave me a part number of BL3Z-2C006 but the local dealer says I need to order BL3Z-19H332-AA (for a lot more money), which he says has "all the stuff you need to install it." When pressed as to the additional items, he said it has the fuse and relay and maybe other things.

I asked him if the fuse and relay were the same ones as provided in a bag in the glove compartment along with the pigtail to install an aftermarket trailer brake controller. He didn't know.

If I buy the 2C006 unit and use the fuse and relay Ford provides with the new truck, is that all the hardware I need? (I understand I still have to go in and program the truck to recognize the addition of the controller.)

 

They should be the same fuses that are provided. Im not an expert, but they look to be the same sizes as the ones provided with the full kits. you just need the indash unit i believe. ive been checking this thread out also, but you have to check the dates. Some units are for trucks with build dates after (blank date) or before (date). So just check your door panel and see what your build date is . Its mostly the 2010 models that seem to be tricky.