2010 fixed rear window power slider replacement
#1
#2
#3
I replaced my standard window on my 09 with a manual slider.
There is an adheasive, but the bolts hold the window in place, the adheasive is the sealant so no leaks
alot of nuts to remove / reinstall inside the cab.....you need a 9mm wrench.
I wish I had a gearwrench that size would have been alot quicker {I do now, $9 at MENARDS}
(a 1/4" drive socket wrench was too tall too work well) Took me under an hour by myself.
add 15 or 20 minutes for the wiring and should be good
got mine from TASCO, they sell power ones too. I think they get about $350 + shipping for power (not sure if that includes defrost??)
Good luck
There is an adheasive, but the bolts hold the window in place, the adheasive is the sealant so no leaks
alot of nuts to remove / reinstall inside the cab.....you need a 9mm wrench.
I wish I had a gearwrench that size would have been alot quicker {I do now, $9 at MENARDS}
(a 1/4" drive socket wrench was too tall too work well) Took me under an hour by myself.
add 15 or 20 minutes for the wiring and should be good
got mine from TASCO, they sell power ones too. I think they get about $350 + shipping for power (not sure if that includes defrost??)
Good luck
Last edited by joendoodle; 03-09-2010 at 10:23 PM. Reason: price note
#4
#5
Got the window in last night. Took longer to take out the rear seat than to pull the window. Some butt-head shot it out with a BB gun and the truck isn't even 6 months old.
Used the tips found on this forum to remove the seat back. Driver's side was easy, but had trouble finding the slot on the passenger side. After pulling the seat it was obvious that the clip is centered behind the bracket (I thought it was to one side).
After that, it was just a matter of pulling the nylon fasteners with a trim fork, the weather stripping (just pulls off), end of rocker panel, side panels (after removing bolt above seat belt), sound deadener and two fasteners securing the headliner. A gearwrench is recommended for the nuts securing the window under the headliner, but it is not necessary. BTW, a 3/8" gearwrench works on a 9mm nut. Power window mechanism comes with the new window and just bolts in. After that, remove all the nuts, push the window out starting at one end, clean the old sealer off (it sticks to itself, so just dab a glob of it along the sealer) add a bead of urethane to the new window and put it back together.
Safelite wanted over $800 to replace it. The dealer uses a local glass guy that wanted about $560. Cashed in on a few favors and got it for a tad over $200 from the local dealer.
Used the tips found on this forum to remove the seat back. Driver's side was easy, but had trouble finding the slot on the passenger side. After pulling the seat it was obvious that the clip is centered behind the bracket (I thought it was to one side).
After that, it was just a matter of pulling the nylon fasteners with a trim fork, the weather stripping (just pulls off), end of rocker panel, side panels (after removing bolt above seat belt), sound deadener and two fasteners securing the headliner. A gearwrench is recommended for the nuts securing the window under the headliner, but it is not necessary. BTW, a 3/8" gearwrench works on a 9mm nut. Power window mechanism comes with the new window and just bolts in. After that, remove all the nuts, push the window out starting at one end, clean the old sealer off (it sticks to itself, so just dab a glob of it along the sealer) add a bead of urethane to the new window and put it back together.
Safelite wanted over $800 to replace it. The dealer uses a local glass guy that wanted about $560. Cashed in on a few favors and got it for a tad over $200 from the local dealer.
Last edited by Dads426; 03-18-2010 at 10:49 PM.
#6
Splice? old three wire connector to new two wire connector
Got the window in last night. Took longer to take out the rear seat than to pull the window. Some butt-head shot it out with a BB gun and the truck isn't even 6 months old.
Used the tips found on this forum to remove the seat back. Driver's side was easy, but had trouble finding the slot on the passenger side. After pulling the seat it was obvious that the clip is centered behind the bracket (I thought it was to one side).
After that, it was just a matter of pulling the nylon fasteners with a trim fork, the weather stripping (just pulls off), end of rocker panel, side panels (after removing bolt above seat belt), sound deadener and two fasteners securing the headliner. A gearwrench is recommended for the nuts securing the window under the headliner, but it is not necessary. BTW, a 3/8" gearwrench works on a 9mm nut. Power window mechanism comes with the new window and just bolts in. After that, remove all the nuts, push the window out starting at one end, clean the old sealer off (it sticks to itself, so just dab a glob of it along the sealer) add a bead of urethane to the new window and put it back together.
Safelite wanted over $800 to replace it. The dealer uses a local glass guy that wanted about $560. Cashed in on a few favors and got it for a tad over $200 from the local dealer.
Used the tips found on this forum to remove the seat back. Driver's side was easy, but had trouble finding the slot on the passenger side. After pulling the seat it was obvious that the clip is centered behind the bracket (I thought it was to one side).
After that, it was just a matter of pulling the nylon fasteners with a trim fork, the weather stripping (just pulls off), end of rocker panel, side panels (after removing bolt above seat belt), sound deadener and two fasteners securing the headliner. A gearwrench is recommended for the nuts securing the window under the headliner, but it is not necessary. BTW, a 3/8" gearwrench works on a 9mm nut. Power window mechanism comes with the new window and just bolts in. After that, remove all the nuts, push the window out starting at one end, clean the old sealer off (it sticks to itself, so just dab a glob of it along the sealer) add a bead of urethane to the new window and put it back together.
Safelite wanted over $800 to replace it. The dealer uses a local glass guy that wanted about $560. Cashed in on a few favors and got it for a tad over $200 from the local dealer.
#7
Just a guess...
Maybe this replacement is designed to switch motor polarity (open/close) differently than the original??? If so, a splice may not be appropriate.
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#8
Thanks