Just bought 2010 f-150 tonight, HELP!
#16
Actually, I just bought a 2010 Fx4 the other night. Rebates are up to 5000 this month if you finance through FMC. I dont think there is any such thing a customer loyalty anymore. Also included was a free bedliner. I also mentioned to them that I can get an xplan pin and they just gave me the xplan price without me getting my pin. So...because of my xplan and it being Ford truck Month...and I graduated college almost 2 years ago = $500 more. I took off about 11000 from MSRP.
#17
I see two problems. 1) the maintenance plan is very pricey. Tell them you do not want it, otherwise your wife will not sign. Just pay as you go.
2) the trade in/sales price. Most people don't think much about trade in value...they try to get as much as they can, but often miss. Here's how the process goes. The salesman takes the car to his used car manager, who then appraises the car. 90% of the time they use the "black Book" which is only available to dealers and is a weekly average of what vehicles are bringing at auto auctions. This is reasonable, because if they went to buy your car at auction, this is the most they would bid. Avg. Black book usually runs about the same as the kelley blue book fair trade in value (kbb). Now the used car manager is bidding on your car just like the auction. If your trade is in great shape, clean, no mechanical issues, never painted,etc, you can easily get them to "bump the trade" $500-1000. Sometimes, the salesman has authority to "hold on the trade", which means he gets an offer of $4000 from his used car manager, but tells you $3000, it's pretty rare, but it happens. They way to keep everyone straight is to know what your car is worth. I always take my car to carmax for an appraisal first, they will buy your car from you. NEVER tell the dealer you did this, because they'll work harder for your deal if they think you need to trade it in with them.
If your trade was fairly valued, then I would say you got a fair deal, not great, but fair. Invoice on the truck is about $35,600, and there may be an additional $600 in gas charges and marketing costs, so say around $36,200. Take the $4500 in rebates off, and you're at $31,700. At $32999, they gave you $1900 off and made $1200. It's fair, and I would say it is probably about average nowadays for the number 1 selling truck in America. Dealers are buying less inventory, and are therefore holding more on what they have. If you want to buy a truck at invoice, you better go to a struggling dealer, and be ready to fight for it for about three hours. You also better go to edmunds and know the invoice, kbb and know your trade in value. Or you could allow their business to discount the vehicle, make a little profit, and you get a GREAT new truck. I'd be happy if I were you.
2) the trade in/sales price. Most people don't think much about trade in value...they try to get as much as they can, but often miss. Here's how the process goes. The salesman takes the car to his used car manager, who then appraises the car. 90% of the time they use the "black Book" which is only available to dealers and is a weekly average of what vehicles are bringing at auto auctions. This is reasonable, because if they went to buy your car at auction, this is the most they would bid. Avg. Black book usually runs about the same as the kelley blue book fair trade in value (kbb). Now the used car manager is bidding on your car just like the auction. If your trade is in great shape, clean, no mechanical issues, never painted,etc, you can easily get them to "bump the trade" $500-1000. Sometimes, the salesman has authority to "hold on the trade", which means he gets an offer of $4000 from his used car manager, but tells you $3000, it's pretty rare, but it happens. They way to keep everyone straight is to know what your car is worth. I always take my car to carmax for an appraisal first, they will buy your car from you. NEVER tell the dealer you did this, because they'll work harder for your deal if they think you need to trade it in with them.
If your trade was fairly valued, then I would say you got a fair deal, not great, but fair. Invoice on the truck is about $35,600, and there may be an additional $600 in gas charges and marketing costs, so say around $36,200. Take the $4500 in rebates off, and you're at $31,700. At $32999, they gave you $1900 off and made $1200. It's fair, and I would say it is probably about average nowadays for the number 1 selling truck in America. Dealers are buying less inventory, and are therefore holding more on what they have. If you want to buy a truck at invoice, you better go to a struggling dealer, and be ready to fight for it for about three hours. You also better go to edmunds and know the invoice, kbb and know your trade in value. Or you could allow their business to discount the vehicle, make a little profit, and you get a GREAT new truck. I'd be happy if I were you.
#18
The only issue I see is the cost of the warranty. I paid $1,200 for the exact same warranty. They started at $3K and I kept refusing it until they came down to the $1,200. I figured what the heck. My '06 gave me a few issues where this would have come in handy. To me it was cheap insurance.
#19
All in all, I don't think you made out too poorly... The maintanance plan sounds pricey as noted previously... Is it just maintanance or extended warranty too? If both, it's still pricey but not THAT bad. Did they give you any extras? Any dealer add-ons? I'd still go back and try to re-negotiate. Maybe you can get a better deal. If you can't, don't sweat it. You got a decent deal. After all, you did end up with a Lariat F-150... How bad of a deal is that?
#20
#21
#23
Here's my view of extended warranties, which I think is what you bought and not a "service" plan. It all depends on how much you're going to drive. Extended warranties are good if you put a lot of miles on a vehicle. Ford's "bumper - bumper" warranty is only 3 years or 36K miles. Most people put more than 12K miles a year on their vehicles. Therefore your factory warranty runs out before the 3 year limit. Lets say your air conditioner or some other major component (outside the drive train) craps out at 40K miles. It could cost you a bundle to get it fixed. It would be covered (probably with a deductible) by the extended warranty. At 75K miles you probably have a 5 or 6 year time limit, so you basically have doubled the "bumper - bumper" portion of the warranty. Ford's power train warranty is 5 years or 60K miles. If we say your extended warranty is 6 years or 75K you've added a year and 15K miles to your basic warranty. Major power train failures occur later as the mileage adds up.
Now if you don't put many miles on a vehicle or you don't keep vehicles for more than a few years, an extended warranty isn't a good idea. The sticker shock on extended warranties is tremendous. If you're having second thoughts check out the cancellation clauses. Each state is different, and your lender may require a cancellation clause on them.
Personally I have gone both ways. I have had vehicles with EW's that never had a problem and I didn't need the EW, and I've had vehicles where I was glad I had the EW, because it saved me a bunch of money when something broke.
As far as oil changes I got 2 years of free oil changes redeemable every 3,000 miles.
Now if you don't put many miles on a vehicle or you don't keep vehicles for more than a few years, an extended warranty isn't a good idea. The sticker shock on extended warranties is tremendous. If you're having second thoughts check out the cancellation clauses. Each state is different, and your lender may require a cancellation clause on them.
Personally I have gone both ways. I have had vehicles with EW's that never had a problem and I didn't need the EW, and I've had vehicles where I was glad I had the EW, because it saved me a bunch of money when something broke.
As far as oil changes I got 2 years of free oil changes redeemable every 3,000 miles.
#24
I think you paid all the money for the service contract and got just an okay deal on the truck but unless you can show fraud you have no legal grounds to nix the deal.
Just because you went into a dealership with no intention of buying a truck and then allowed them the "pressure" you into buying a new truck you did agree to the deal and signed the contract. The dealer allowed you to take the truck with your assurance that your wife would be in to sign the contract. You do have them over the barrel there, if your wife's name is on the contract and she doesn't sign it they do not have a cash-able contract.
I say shame on you for not manning up to the deal you agreed to when you drove the truck off the lot and for not doing your homework before stepping foot on the dealers lot and then coming here looking for assurance you didn't get screwed or a way to weasel out of the deal.
Just because you went into a dealership with no intention of buying a truck and then allowed them the "pressure" you into buying a new truck you did agree to the deal and signed the contract. The dealer allowed you to take the truck with your assurance that your wife would be in to sign the contract. You do have them over the barrel there, if your wife's name is on the contract and she doesn't sign it they do not have a cash-able contract.
I say shame on you for not manning up to the deal you agreed to when you drove the truck off the lot and for not doing your homework before stepping foot on the dealers lot and then coming here looking for assurance you didn't get screwed or a way to weasel out of the deal.
#25
Well I bought a 2010 F-150 Lariat SCrew.Looking at Ford's website I think its just a base Lariat. I had no intention of buying, and got pressured into the deal. Now I cant sleep.
MSRP was listed at 39K, dealer gave me $32,999 after rebates and before tt&l. Did I get ripped off? Did I do ok? It's driving me crazy and I can't sleep.
It was a joint purchase but they let me off the lot with it without my wife being there to sign anything. If I got ripped off,could she just not sign to void the deal?
Total ended up being
32,999 (MSRP - Rebates)
+1K from trade upside down
+2.8K for 75k maintenance service (should I have even gotten this?)
+TT&L
MSRP was listed at 39K, dealer gave me $32,999 after rebates and before tt&l. Did I get ripped off? Did I do ok? It's driving me crazy and I can't sleep.
It was a joint purchase but they let me off the lot with it without my wife being there to sign anything. If I got ripped off,could she just not sign to void the deal?
Total ended up being
32,999 (MSRP - Rebates)
+1K from trade upside down
+2.8K for 75k maintenance service (should I have even gotten this?)
+TT&L
#26
The only issue I see is the cost of the warranty. I paid $1,200 for the exact same warranty. They started at $3K and I kept refusing it until they came down to the $1,200. I figured what the heck. My '06 gave me a few issues where this would have come in handy. To me it was cheap insurance.
My buddy sells extended warranties and maintenance packages and they always negotiate. You have the upper hand without your wife's signature.
They will probably give it to you for $1200 if you really want it.
#27
Well I bought a 2010 F-150 Lariat SCrew.Looking at Ford's website I think its just a base Lariat. I had no intention of buying, and got pressured into the deal. Now I cant sleep.
MSRP was listed at 39K, dealer gave me $32,999 after rebates and before tt&l. Did I get ripped off? Did I do ok? It's driving me crazy and I can't sleep.
It was a joint purchase but they let me off the lot with it without my wife being there to sign anything. If I got ripped off,could she just not sign to void the deal?
Total ended up being
32,999 (MSRP - Rebates)
+1K from trade upside down
+2.8K for 75k maintenance service (should I have even gotten this?)
+TT&L
MSRP was listed at 39K, dealer gave me $32,999 after rebates and before tt&l. Did I get ripped off? Did I do ok? It's driving me crazy and I can't sleep.
It was a joint purchase but they let me off the lot with it without my wife being there to sign anything. If I got ripped off,could she just not sign to void the deal?
Total ended up being
32,999 (MSRP - Rebates)
+1K from trade upside down
+2.8K for 75k maintenance service (should I have even gotten this?)
+TT&L
#28
Well I bought a 2010 F-150 Lariat SCrew.Looking at Ford's website I think its just a base Lariat. I had no intention of buying, and got pressured into the deal. Now I cant sleep.
MSRP was listed at 39K, dealer gave me $32,999 after rebates and before tt&l. Did I get ripped off? Did I do ok? It's driving me crazy and I can't sleep.
It was a joint purchase but they let me off the lot with it without my wife being there to sign anything. If I got ripped off,could she just not sign to void the deal?
Total ended up being
32,999 (MSRP - Rebates)
+1K from trade upside down
+2.8K for 75k maintenance service (should I have even gotten this?)
+TT&L
MSRP was listed at 39K, dealer gave me $32,999 after rebates and before tt&l. Did I get ripped off? Did I do ok? It's driving me crazy and I can't sleep.
It was a joint purchase but they let me off the lot with it without my wife being there to sign anything. If I got ripped off,could she just not sign to void the deal?
Total ended up being
32,999 (MSRP - Rebates)
+1K from trade upside down
+2.8K for 75k maintenance service (should I have even gotten this?)
+TT&L
Last edited by dirtyd09stx; 03-11-2010 at 06:42 PM.
#29
You'll really drive yourself crazy asking what others paid. Markets are somewhat local, what a truck goes for in Washington state is different then what the same truck would sell for in Alabama. Big city/little town, how many hungry dealers in your area, etc, etc. Also,don't believe everything you read on the net, people naturally tend to sweeten the deal they made for some reason. To some people it's worth a week of haggling, walking off the lot, whatever, to save a few bucks. Others go in blind and get killed. I try to find a happy medium.
I will say you seem to have made a really big impulse buy. The deal you made is the deal you made, honor it. Dealers aren't my favorite people, but they did several hours of work, finance, vehicle prep, and let you drive off a zero mile vehicle (I assume) Buyers remorse shouldn't let you walk away scot free.
As far as the warranty/service, I got both on my 2010, a first for me. I negotiated pretty hard on these and got what I consider to be a fair deal. For the next 7 years, 75,000 miles, I'll only have to pay for tires. My oil gets changed every 5000, tires rotated, wiper blades, hoses, whatever. I keep vehicles for many years, so locking in my maintenance costs in todays dollars worked for me. The reason I went with the extended warranty is because I priced a few of the electrical components on this model. I'm pretty old school, I trust my drive train will last, I'm not as confident in the sync, electrical speedo unit, sensors, and all the other bells and whistles not failing in the 4 years after my factory warranty runs out. One failure will pay for the warranty, if nothing breaks I bought 7 years worth of peace of mind. Worth it to me.
Good luck with the whole wife thing.
I will say you seem to have made a really big impulse buy. The deal you made is the deal you made, honor it. Dealers aren't my favorite people, but they did several hours of work, finance, vehicle prep, and let you drive off a zero mile vehicle (I assume) Buyers remorse shouldn't let you walk away scot free.
As far as the warranty/service, I got both on my 2010, a first for me. I negotiated pretty hard on these and got what I consider to be a fair deal. For the next 7 years, 75,000 miles, I'll only have to pay for tires. My oil gets changed every 5000, tires rotated, wiper blades, hoses, whatever. I keep vehicles for many years, so locking in my maintenance costs in todays dollars worked for me. The reason I went with the extended warranty is because I priced a few of the electrical components on this model. I'm pretty old school, I trust my drive train will last, I'm not as confident in the sync, electrical speedo unit, sensors, and all the other bells and whistles not failing in the 4 years after my factory warranty runs out. One failure will pay for the warranty, if nothing breaks I bought 7 years worth of peace of mind. Worth it to me.
Good luck with the whole wife thing.
#30
this thread made me think about when i got my 2009 lariat with everything under the sun, as soon as i signed the papers they kept pushing me for the extended warranty because "i had a lot of extra options and those options could go bad"...i kept telling them NO and they finally got the point...it really p*ssed me off that they kept pushing for the extra warranty, i just paid 38K for a truck and they basically made it sound like i was buying a lemon...it's like if you go to best buy and they want you to buy an extended maintenance warranty...if you pay for a good product you should not have any worries about it needing repair in the future (at least in the near future)...i took my chances when i bought my 07 and now with my 09, the thing runs great and i'm not looking back or looking for the rip off of an "extended" warranty (with 1,000 discrepancies).