Thoughts on New F-150
#1
Thoughts on New F-150
Okay, so I can tell my self I told me so. I bought a 2010 Screw XLT last year in July and it now has 10K miles on it. I now wish that I'd gotten the Lariat or Platinum, especially for the leather seating (two small children who like to spill things). They are giving these things away by me now. You can get a new Lariat with everything I could want or need for around $28-30K (MSRP $39-42K) plus TT&L. What do you all think my F-150 is worth on a trade? It still looks and smells brand new. I own it outright, so equity isn't an issue.
#3
I was hoping the hit wouldn't be too bad. But, with the new truck deals, obviously the used sales are going to get hurt. I looked it up on KBB as if it was a 2009. There is no way those numbers can be right. It shows the trade in value to be $22K, which isn't much less than I paid. But, I did get a good fleet deal on it back in July.
#4
I just traded an 04 Lariat SCrew in on a 2010 Platinum and they have me 14K for the trade. That is 2-4K over KBB trade in.. and the truck was not in perfect shape either. Small things like Broken Sunroof.. rear-end whine/slip and needed a new throttle body.. minor scratches is all.. I was pleasantly surprised... I had the same offer from Chevy and Toyota for the trade as well... everyone around here is looking for used trucks.
#6
#7
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#8
those are rough numbers to give you a starting point. that dosent account for applied savings, or market adjustments, vehicles are worth more or less depending on the strength of the market. i would say that they would probably go higher, but thats just a base line, to give an idea of what can be exspected.
what i have seen more often than not, when presenting numbers, they will show part of the amout avaliable for discount in your trade, to keep the dealers purchase price of your trade low, allowing them to maxamize profit on the resale.
for example
msrp 40,0000 or msrp 40,000
4,000 rebates 4,000 rebates
5,000 discount 2,000 discount
actual sale price= 31,000 sale price 34,000
trade in value acv= 15,000 percived trade value 18,000
you pay 16,000 you pay 16,000
Just an example not actual numbers, and does not reflect current rebates or any specific vehicles....
what i have seen more often than not, when presenting numbers, they will show part of the amout avaliable for discount in your trade, to keep the dealers purchase price of your trade low, allowing them to maxamize profit on the resale.
for example
msrp 40,0000 or msrp 40,000
4,000 rebates 4,000 rebates
5,000 discount 2,000 discount
actual sale price= 31,000 sale price 34,000
trade in value acv= 15,000 percived trade value 18,000
you pay 16,000 you pay 16,000
Just an example not actual numbers, and does not reflect current rebates or any specific vehicles....
#9
Yes, since 2010's have yet to hit the auction in any great quantity and no one is really trading them in either (hence, no values on kbb.com), this is probably closer to reality:
A new car mgr will pull an invoice on a current 2010 XLT Screw sitting on their lot at the moment, with very nearly the same equipment as your truck. They then, theoretically, say, "what is the absolute lowest we can sell this truck for, given the current rebates?". Well anyone in the biz will tell you that's Triple Net. Invoice, minus holdback, minus FDAF. Then subtract rebates available for his situation (military, college grad, AQHA, FMCC cash, XLT cash, etc etc) and his zip code (regions around the country are different). This is your absolute, bottom-dollar market price for a 2010 Screw (for his zip code and personal situation).
Now they take that number, and figure in mileage he's driven and the condition the truck is in. For that, they can go off the black book, pretty standard stuff. 10k miles in 8 months is fairly avg as far as what ppl drive a year (~15k a yr) but you will still take a hit.
My guess, and I would not take this to the bank b/c I have not seen your truck nor driven it, is that once you figure out a triple net price for a matching existing 2010 XLT Screw, the dealer will probably take another $2-4k off that and voila'.... There is the wholesale bid on your truck!
I welcome anyone in the biz to either back me up on that or completely disagree with me. I have no problem having a constructive argument/agreement with anyone!
:cheers:
A new car mgr will pull an invoice on a current 2010 XLT Screw sitting on their lot at the moment, with very nearly the same equipment as your truck. They then, theoretically, say, "what is the absolute lowest we can sell this truck for, given the current rebates?". Well anyone in the biz will tell you that's Triple Net. Invoice, minus holdback, minus FDAF. Then subtract rebates available for his situation (military, college grad, AQHA, FMCC cash, XLT cash, etc etc) and his zip code (regions around the country are different). This is your absolute, bottom-dollar market price for a 2010 Screw (for his zip code and personal situation).
Now they take that number, and figure in mileage he's driven and the condition the truck is in. For that, they can go off the black book, pretty standard stuff. 10k miles in 8 months is fairly avg as far as what ppl drive a year (~15k a yr) but you will still take a hit.
My guess, and I would not take this to the bank b/c I have not seen your truck nor driven it, is that once you figure out a triple net price for a matching existing 2010 XLT Screw, the dealer will probably take another $2-4k off that and voila'.... There is the wholesale bid on your truck!
I welcome anyone in the biz to either back me up on that or completely disagree with me. I have no problem having a constructive argument/agreement with anyone!
:cheers:
#10
Thanks for the feedback. I'm sceptical about just getting the leather interior. Also, there are other goodies that I would like, now that I've seen them and have a little money to deal with. If I could get $22K, I'd be happy. I only paid $24K. The problem is that they are still selling them for $24K new. And, I know the whole lowball thing on the trade. I may just try to sell it myself, although that is a huge hassle unless people pay cash.
When are the 2011 models supposed to come out? I was thinking that the with the new engine availablity, etc., the 2010s will be subject to major sales, unless they sell a ton of them before then. I don't know, this month they have some really good deals around here. I typically buy my trucks right before or when the next year's models come out. This one was a fluke. I was actually looking for a 2009 when this one came in on a truck and they offered to sell it to me for less that the 2009, due to the difference in incentives at the time. Plus, it likely helped that it didn't sit on the lot and accrue floor plan interest.
When are the 2011 models supposed to come out? I was thinking that the with the new engine availablity, etc., the 2010s will be subject to major sales, unless they sell a ton of them before then. I don't know, this month they have some really good deals around here. I typically buy my trucks right before or when the next year's models come out. This one was a fluke. I was actually looking for a 2009 when this one came in on a truck and they offered to sell it to me for less that the 2009, due to the difference in incentives at the time. Plus, it likely helped that it didn't sit on the lot and accrue floor plan interest.
#11
me personally i wouldnt trade. get your moneys worth out of what you currently own. there is no sense in trading up for leather and what not. like someone else said, pay for it to be added to your truck. i am going to buy off amazon some seat mats with the ford logo and put my kids car seats on top of them. you can also pay certain shops that can spray your cloth seats with a layer of protection to protect like leather and your cloth seats will not stain. i have seen this package at some dealerships. some type of cloth protection thing they can do. its really interesting.
#12
I wouldn't trade, but that's just my opinion. With that said, any dealership you trade with is going to keep the truck and sell it on their used lot. It's not like a wholesaler is going to be buying it. If the dealer will only give you wholsale, then the new truck should be bought at wholesale as well. Tell him you will deal retail for retail or wholesale for wholesale. You're not going to let him make money on the new truck, then turn around and make a bunch of money on your trade. Tell him to chose which way he wants to go, then just discuss the difference in value between the two trucks. Rebates are gravy and have nothing to do with the deal, since the dealer gets that money from Ford instead of you. Good luck and I hope you get what you want.
#13
IronMedic, are you referring to amazon.com? Where would I find the seat cover you are referring to? I have had the fabric protectant put on previous vehicles. It works for a while, but not forever. And, based on the experience I had with my '06 F-150's fabric, this new Ford fabric stains very easily. I should have gotten leather in the first place, but there just wasn't much selection when I bought my truck.
#14
these arent exactly seat covers but they go where your kid would sit. i like em!!
http://www.amazon.com/Ford-Blue-Oval...=1QUF3NUKK0KNX
http://www.amazon.com/Ford-Blue-Oval...=1QUF3NUKK0KNX
#15
Yes, since 2010's have yet to hit the auction in any great quantity and no one is really trading them in either (hence, no values on kbb.com), this is probably closer to reality:
A new car mgr will pull an invoice on a current 2010 XLT Screw sitting on their lot at the moment, with very nearly the same equipment as your truck. They then, theoretically, say, "what is the absolute lowest we can sell this truck for, given the current rebates?". Well anyone in the biz will tell you that's Triple Net. Invoice, minus holdback, minus FDAF. Then subtract rebates available for his situation (military, college grad, AQHA, FMCC cash, XLT cash, etc etc) and his zip code (regions around the country are different). This is your absolute, bottom-dollar market price for a 2010 Screw (for his zip code and personal situation).
Now they take that number, and figure in mileage he's driven and the condition the truck is in. For that, they can go off the black book, pretty standard stuff. 10k miles in 8 months is fairly avg as far as what ppl drive a year (~15k a yr) but you will still take a hit.
My guess, and I would not take this to the bank b/c I have not seen your truck nor driven it, is that once you figure out a triple net price for a matching existing 2010 XLT Screw, the dealer will probably take another $2-4k off that and voila'.... There is the wholesale bid on your truck!
I welcome anyone in the biz to either back me up on that or completely disagree with me. I have no problem having a constructive argument/agreement with anyone!
:cheers:
A new car mgr will pull an invoice on a current 2010 XLT Screw sitting on their lot at the moment, with very nearly the same equipment as your truck. They then, theoretically, say, "what is the absolute lowest we can sell this truck for, given the current rebates?". Well anyone in the biz will tell you that's Triple Net. Invoice, minus holdback, minus FDAF. Then subtract rebates available for his situation (military, college grad, AQHA, FMCC cash, XLT cash, etc etc) and his zip code (regions around the country are different). This is your absolute, bottom-dollar market price for a 2010 Screw (for his zip code and personal situation).
Now they take that number, and figure in mileage he's driven and the condition the truck is in. For that, they can go off the black book, pretty standard stuff. 10k miles in 8 months is fairly avg as far as what ppl drive a year (~15k a yr) but you will still take a hit.
My guess, and I would not take this to the bank b/c I have not seen your truck nor driven it, is that once you figure out a triple net price for a matching existing 2010 XLT Screw, the dealer will probably take another $2-4k off that and voila'.... There is the wholesale bid on your truck!
I welcome anyone in the biz to either back me up on that or completely disagree with me. I have no problem having a constructive argument/agreement with anyone!
:cheers:
agreed, with the exception of the milage calculation, thats where it hurts, i always went @.35 which is what edmunds and nada recomended... I have seen other managers go as high as .65-.75 cents, that to me is highway robbery. just a public service, at the dealer always be vigilint and exspect them to try to pull the wool over your eyes. when I was a young sales man i sure as hell did.