Have a issue with speed
#46
i love how you ask a question & people are completely off topic... he asked simply how fast this truck can go not what happens to the engine if it isnt broken in properly.. o & just to clear up what i said in an earlier post im not trying to race the truck i just like to mess with the ricers on occasion. if the grandpas don't like it then so be it.
#47
i love how you ask a question & people are completely off topic... he asked simply how fast this truck can go not what happens to the engine if it isnt broken in properly.. o & just to clear up what i said in an earlier post im not trying to race the truck i just like to mess with the ricers on occasion. if the grandpas don't like it then so be it.
As to the topic at hand. I am not overly bothered by the speed limiter as I don't see myself needing high speed in my F150 (my 2007 X51 power kit equipped 997S Porsche covers my need for speed) but than again I don't like being restricted by some bean counter, attorney or bureaucrat. As previously mentioned my guess is the limiter is there to limit speed due to tire speed ratings; lower speed rated tires cost less.
#48
To each his or her own, I for one don't need to do over 90 in mine.
I challenge the comment about break in..
The motor is broken in after the first 20 minutes of operation or so, the rings and bearings are seated and you are done. Race motors are built, run for 20 minutes, then tuned on a dyno, run at 7 to 10 grand and then their next step is the track. A modern truck motor is precision built (not like the old days - sorry guys but back in the day most stock motors were sloppy crap) and does not require an extended brak in period. Wear is a different story, the engine will wear faster at high RPM, greater stress on parts when they move faster, the pistons are moving so fast in the cylinder that rods, bolts bearings and even the crank get stressed. What that limit is I don't know but apparently Ford decided what was optimal for the life of the motor they built or maybe it was for safety/legal reasons, who knows. I say if you want to go faster and maybe do so damage its your call and your dime.
I challenge the comment about break in..
The motor is broken in after the first 20 minutes of operation or so, the rings and bearings are seated and you are done. Race motors are built, run for 20 minutes, then tuned on a dyno, run at 7 to 10 grand and then their next step is the track. A modern truck motor is precision built (not like the old days - sorry guys but back in the day most stock motors were sloppy crap) and does not require an extended brak in period. Wear is a different story, the engine will wear faster at high RPM, greater stress on parts when they move faster, the pistons are moving so fast in the cylinder that rods, bolts bearings and even the crank get stressed. What that limit is I don't know but apparently Ford decided what was optimal for the life of the motor they built or maybe it was for safety/legal reasons, who knows. I say if you want to go faster and maybe do so damage its your call and your dime.
Yes, race motors might be dynoed after a short period of time. But race motors are also hand built to exacting specifications with polished main bearings and balanced pistons, connecting rods and cranks. A production motor, although built to newer, higher computer dimensions and tolerances still needs a minimal break-in period. These new virgin parts are in effect polishing themselves during break-in.
I love to put the hammer down as much as the next person, responsibly of course. But something else no one has seemed to address yet is braking and or stopping power. Although our trucks are equipped with excellent brakes, it’s hard to stop 3 ½ + tons of vehicle on a dime. I think Ford has made a responsible decision with the limiter. If you really feel you need the extra mph, get the programmer. It’s all about personal choice right?
Bob
#49
my guess is the limiter is there to limit speed due to tire speed ratings; lower speed rated tires cost less.
#50
With all due respect please define what you mean by "temper". When I hear the word temper when used in the context of things made of metal alloys I think of applying very high temperatures to toughen the metal. There is no way you could ever get a transmission or differential hot enough to temper it or any part in it under normal or even abnormal driving conditions. Whereas I agree that rings break-in relatively early I see little need to worry about valve break-in as they are cut and then lapped to the same angles as the valve seat they will seal in at the factory and the valve stem is many times harder than the relatively soft valve guide it will travel in. As for not towing, the factory does not want you to generate too much heat in the transmission and differential which can damage the gears. More load equals more heat generated. As for not going over 60-65, my F150 is looping along at a sedate 1,500 rpm at 60. I don't see how keeping up with other traffic on the freeway is going to cause any problems.
#51
I used the term "temper" to reference the process of heating and cooling the rear end and trans... I only used the term because a few previous posters had already coined the term to mean this process... Next time read the entire thread.... I know you are not truly tempering the steel, but you are heating and cooling it down (if you are breaking the items in properly). This is probably why the previous posters began to call it "tempering".
What is accomplished by heating and cooling the transmission and rear end and is therefore a requisite to proper break-in? What do heat cycles do to complete break-in of the transmission and rear end? Please supply substantiation and not anecdotal evidence.
I did read the entire thread, did you?
#52
I guess my definition of "tempering" was too narrow for many on this forum. I was using the term in its relationship to the hardening of metal alloys by heating it to very high temperatures, well beyond those found in the daily operation of our vehicles.
What is accomplished by heating and cooling the transmission and rear end and is therefore a requisite to proper break-in? What do heat cycles do to complete break-in of the transmission and rear end? Please supply substantiation and not anecdotal evidence.
I did read the entire thread, did you?
What is accomplished by heating and cooling the transmission and rear end and is therefore a requisite to proper break-in? What do heat cycles do to complete break-in of the transmission and rear end? Please supply substantiation and not anecdotal evidence.
I did read the entire thread, did you?
#53
Here you go http://www.ringpinion.com/FAQ.aspx#37
#54
You will have to scroll down just a little bit to see the video.
http://gizmodo.com/gadgets/fourstrok...?autoplay=true
#55
OK Pugie, since you insist on arguing this point(and I really do hate pissing contests) Here is a link for you. It is a repost on this site, but it shows what takes place inside a cylinder. Keep in mind, you have a fuel air mixture in there, that is compressed several atmospheres.(that equals more intense heat, like a bellows in a foundry). Plus you have water circulating through the engine keeping it cool. Does that help in any way for you to understand why it can be referred to as tempering?
You will have to scroll down just a little bit to see the video.
http://gizmodo.com/gadgets/fourstrok...?autoplay=true
You will have to scroll down just a little bit to see the video.
http://gizmodo.com/gadgets/fourstrok...?autoplay=true
Last edited by Pugnacious; 06-06-2010 at 05:42 PM.
#56
OK Pugie, since you insist on arguing this point(and I really do hate pissing contests) Here is a link for you. It is a repost on this site, but it shows what takes place inside a cylinder. Keep in mind, you have a fuel air mixture in there, that is compressed several atmospheres.(that equals more intense heat, like a bellows in a foundry). Plus you have water circulating through the engine keeping it cool. Does that help in any way for you to understand why it can be referred to as tempering?
You will have to scroll down just a little bit to see the video.
http://gizmodo.com/gadgets/fourstrok...?autoplay=true
You will have to scroll down just a little bit to see the video.
http://gizmodo.com/gadgets/fourstrok...?autoplay=true
Bob
#60