wow that looked like a total pita

 

I will post some finished pics later but it all came apart pretty easy and was a *Snap to put back together if you know what i mean. Boy i wish i knew about those panel speaker wires it would have made it a ton easier to do this install.... oh well i still needed some power and remote power.

V/R John T

Pictures to come and if you guys got any questions feel free to ask away.

 

anybody know an easy way to find a lead that can be used for the amp remote trigger (e.g. goes on/off with radio). Sorry, should have mentioned 2010 FX4 SCrew.

 

Well i personally used the remote wire which would be located on the brake controller switch i believe. I pulled out the panel to the left of the radio which housed an A/C vent and a coin holder (I have the XLT). Behind the coin holder was a plug that hooked up to nothing, i tested with a voltimeter and found a good remote wire. Took about 5 Min. to get to that wire.

-V/R John T

 

This is the box completed and carpeted with the 10" kicker CVT installed. Built it all myself cost around $30, maybe less.
Very First time i have ever carpeted anything much less a box with this many angles and weird spots.
This thing hits low and deep (i think downfire is definitely the way to go without a doubt).

 

I just finished building a VERY small box for under the 40 split of '10 Screw. 0.34cu. ft. with 1/2 lb of polyfill. I figure it should react as a ~0.41 cu. ft. give or take a bit. I used a P3SD210 woofer (Rockford Fosgate P3 Punch Shallow Mount Dual 2 Ohm 10"), since it had the lowest mounting depth (3.5") and smallest enclosure specs ( .4 to 1.0, 0.5 being optimal) of anything I looked at. I havn't given it much of a fair trial yet, but am somewhat disappointed so far. Very muddy sounding, and lacking on the low-end, which is characteristic of undersized boxes and shallow woofers, so I'm not surprised by any means. After a break-in and some tuning it might come to life a little, or a bigger box, more like yours is in the near future...




I have a few questions about your install though. For a Line-out converter I ordered a MTX Re-Q5, since it has Front, Rear and Sub pre-outs and some bass tweaking settings built-in that the OEM deck and my specific sub amp lack. That said, I am planning on installing it somewhere in the dash (though it is rather large), using a harness that I'll be building when the components arrive. Maybe you can help me figure this out a little.

By building this harness I'm hoping to avoid ANY cutting of the factory wiring. I ordered both ends of the wide main connector that goes to your receiver. The male and female ends. In my mind I'll be able to plug the factory harness into one end, and the other end into the receiver. I'm curious what wires are NOT speaker line-outs on that connector. Maybe power, sync stuff, steering wheel controls, etc. ? Those I would run straight through, and the speaker lines I would cut, running the receiver half to the MTX and the return speaker wires from my amps back the the harness half.

Hopefully I'm explaining this well enough. The idea is to not cut anything permanent, and to utilize the existing door wiring for the components.

Any help is welcome. Did you run into any troubles or indications that my harness idea will not work?

 

I completely disagree... I tossed my stock amp and I still have bass fall-off. I just have so much power running through two 12s that it's less noticeable. So I have too much bass down at lower volumes, but then the treble catches up at higher volumes (when the bass stops increasing with volume). To fix it, I installed a separate bass ****. Oh, and The Re-Q did not help. Hell, I had it all reinstalled by a professional to make sure it was done the best way possible and even he pitched the Re-Q. I have one if anyone needs it, lol. We just used a PAC line level converter.

Amp ismounted in the storage bin underneath the rear seats on the driver side. I have some pics in my gallery but the box is sitting upside down (firing upward) until I get some Dynamat. Downward firing will give you some serious rattles. I need to snap a pic of the amp location still though.

 

Casedog, how and where did you tap your LOC into the speaker lines? I'm working on figuring out a T connector for behind the receiver.

 

Well it seems you have your system wired wrong then! I had all the outputs tested by my audio dealer with their testing equipment and the only time the bass drops off is when its tested after the Sony amp. If you go before the Sony amp the signal is fine. My bass functions just like it should now I run it from the head unit output and not the amp output. Check it for your self it's simple to test. Connect from stock amp to your new amp and then from head unit to your new amp and you will notice a massive difference. Like I also said I have my bass on head unit at -2 and I'm getting some serious bass.

 

You should round off (or use two 45* angles) at the corner where you step in. Wish I had done that.

 

That's exactly what I ended up doing with mine. Makes it look much cleaner. It's a bit more work but def worth it.

 

Sorry - I didn't read to the bottom to see the finished product. Looks great.

 

No, it's hooked up from the head unit output. It's actually pulling it's signal from the front channel speakers. And don't get me wrong, it's more than enough bass... the bass makes my rear-view mirror dance if I want it to, lol, but the bass doesn't continue to increase at higher volumes. It doesn't decrease or lower the bass it just keeps it from increasing at a certain volume (clipping). Did you switch head units? I dont remember my stock unit saying "-2" but maybe you have the NAV unit.

 

Thats a nice looking box you made
Great job on the carpeting I like how you did it, I hate when people dont do the bottom it looks horrible.
How much was that sub?

Got a pic of it in your truck under the seat?

 

Yep I have the nav unit which as far as I know is the same as the non nav unit premium system. Perhaps the non nav units are wired differently but I can tell you now that I have zero drop off in bass and it increase in ratio with my volume. Not only can i hear this my self but its also been tested. Even the shop where I bought my gear tested the outputs before I splashed out on any type of processors. These guys know their **** as well. They were using some pretty high end testing equipment as they also do high end home theater installs. Not that I need them to tell me this because I had already tested my self. They just wanted to test so that they could have made more money selling me more kit.