So i will be adding a subwoofer to my 2009 F150 SuperCrew.
I will be making my own Box out 3/4" MDF
Parts that will be used:
Kicker shallow 10" subwoofer CVT (10CVT10-2)
Amplifier will be a kicker ZX400.1 (Class D 2ohm)
Stinger 8 gauge amp installation kit
Home built sealed enclosure

Still unsure what Type of line out adapter i will be using
Any thoughts on that would be excellent

Kicker reccomends: KICKER 09 ZISL

PART ONE: Subwoofer Enclosure build
So i built the box out of 3/4" MDF, I took some measurements and looked at the subwoofer size i was considering purchasing and went to town with some wood and alot of power tools.
Note the speaker says it requires .8 Cu Ft, which would have been a decent size box (almost unstealthy!!! downright Large). The box i built is give or take .65 Cu ft-(which by the way is more than enough room for a shallow mount Kenwood subwoofer or Pioneer premier). Let me know what you think, i will be sealing it with some Silicone Caulk and carpeting it with the closest matching carpet i could find.

I will post some pictures when i have removed some of the dash and wiring for the amplifier, (Any help or links would be greatly appreciated, especially in the wiring diagram of the stereo department)

V/R John T

 

I built the box so it didnt take up the whole back seat (or under the seat) and i was still able to utilize the flat load rear floor.
Its about half the length of the rear seat, approximately 26" wide.
It will be a downfire (heard i can get more deep bass from a downfire) hance the spacers for the bottom.

I am looking for a place to put the amp right now, most likely i am waiting for the amp to come in and i will begin trying to fit it anywhere out of sight.

V/R John T

 

I have done a bit of research and have decided to go with the MTX RE-Q Bass restoration Module. Supposed to add the bass at higher volumes the stock stereo removes, and it has a bass boost switch!
Looking to purchase one now, will take pictures when i have it installed.

V/R John T

 

Looks nice. You might be able to mount your amp and other electronics behind the seatback depending on how deep they are, at the bottom of the seatback is some space. You would just have to make sure that when you raise your seat the seatback would not hit the amps.

 

The stock head unit does not affect the bass at volume. It's the sub amp that does that. Remove the amp and you won't need re-q. I have to have my bass setting on the head unit at -2 and my amp at it's lowest setting or it gets too much. You def shouldn't need bass boost. Unless you like uncontrolled bad bass.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...-upgraded.html

 

Can you post the full dimensions of the box?

 

-I will have to get the measurement of the box as soon as i get a chance-
-About the RE-Q i bought it for a few reasons

1: I needed some sort of a line out converter.

B: All i have read about the stock ford stereo setup was once its turned up the bass becomes tamed down by either the stereo or the sony amp. Well i dont have the sony amp and well reason A plus a good discount i had on the thing got it to me for about $40 (no secrets revealed so dont ask) which is about double the price of a line out converter.

3: I do want a "little" (Or a lot) bit of a thump, and with only a 400 watt amp and a 10" SUB i think i should be right at that level where someone may ask me how many 12s' i have in there.

4. Just cuz it sounds cooler to say "I have a bass processor hooked up"

V/R John T

 

So the measurements for the box:
Top:13 3/4" x 24"
Bottom: 12" x 24"
Front: 5" x 24" Slight angle cut on top to fit angled board.
Back: 4" x 24" Angle cut to fit both top and bottom
Sides: Cut to fit (I traced side shape needed to fit)
Spacers: Used 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" and angled cut from full size in front to 3/4" in rear

Took alot of measurements and cut twice a few times.
Did the math (as good as i know how) and it came to just under .65 CU FT which is not as big as i need but it should work well enough to get the thump i need.
I will be using a silicone caulk to seal and i have purchased a terminal that will screw into the side of the box so air wont escape through a hole where the speaker wires would be ran through.
And i will be using alot more screws than whats shown in the picture (Pre drilled of course to avoid splitting this fragile wood).

V/R John T

 

Got the RE-Q in and will be adding it tonight...If i can figure out how to crack the dash open and wire this bad boy together.

V/R John T

 

This web site has a video on removing the console and dash.

http://www.coastaletech.com/F150installation.htm

 

Got the dash all apart and am stuck on a small wiring color issue.... But i should have it sorted shortly.

(Not sure which are speaker wires and what color each belongs too.)

 

Curious question?
I have the XLT 2009 SCREW, what is the harness for behind the coin holder directly below the vent to the left of the stereo??

 

trailer brake controller i believe

 

I may have my puzzle solved, just by using my Google-ing skills.

LF
+ white
- white brown

RF
+ white violet
- white orange

LR
+ white green
- brown yellow

RR
+ brown white
- brown blue

I think this is right by looking at my picture of the wire harness.

SWEET $H!T !!!!

 

What's up guys.

Quick heads up or work around. I just recently had a box built for my 2010 F-150 to install 2 Kicker 10's with only a 300w amp and it slams!

Instead of getting in behind the head unit and possibly damaging anything. You can access the wiring harness under the door floor panel on the driver side, and the passenger side to tap into the speaker wires there. Makes for a much easier install.
The plastic panels just pop off with no problem. Follow John's color code and you will be good to go.