2009 - 2014 F-150

Who has this kit?

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  #16  
Old 01-02-2011, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Ibrocun
Overall performance, you are right. A longer strut is better than a coil spacer. One reason is that it will be valved for the weight of the larger tire. But the OP performed one test where wheel travel was the deciding factor. In that test, there is not a shock or coilover setup that will smooth the ride without the corresponding wheel travel. I think he was expecting something else, or at least his brother was.

My point in saying that the basic IFS design is the same, was to point out that it would not have mattered if his brother's truck was a Tundra or an F150. I never meant to compare either one to a Raptor. And in the test that he did, it would not matter if it was a spacer or coilover. When you exceed the travel of your suspension and there's still a lot of energy coming down, it's going to hurt. Again, I'm just looking at the example of hitting a railroad crossing at high speed. It's not a comprehensive test.

The superiority of a suspension lift with a full strut replacement to a spacer kit will be seen on the street, rough roads and dirt roads. That's what those systems are made for, not bombing through the whoops at high speed (or jumping railroad tracks). For that you need a Raptor or a $10,000 budget.
In the example, it WOULD make a difference. First you said shocks n coilovers make little/no difference and now your saying just in the example they dont. In the example, or in ANY EXAMPLE, it WILL make a decided difference to have a performance coilover versus a spaced-stock-strut because the spings are rated different (usually higher) so it will handle all that weight coming down better than a stock spring. Thats why they are firmer, to slow down that energy before bottomout. And they are capable of more performance... and the custom valved shock in the coilover will smooth out the rebound after landing. There is a HUGE difference in any example. A coilover IS definitly a step up to get more performance over the same lift utilizing a stock-strut-spacer. Shocks and springs do make a huge change. Will it match the Raptor, we agree it will not. lol

So i WOULD opt for a lift system with new coilovers and rear shocks over the system with strut spacers... the coilovers will win in any test, dirt roads, rogh roads AND jumping. Yes the coilover will perform better. Will itsave your truck, i dont know, but it will fair better than jumping with stock struts/coils.

The strut spacer kit MIGHT perform better than the custom coilover on the highway bc it retains the factory ride.
 

Last edited by casedog; 01-02-2011 at 07:35 PM.
  #17  
Old 01-02-2011, 08:37 PM
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wow. I should have kept the Raptor out of this and asked a simple question. I did not mean to start such a controversy.

I know I can't compare anything to the Raptor. I was just surprised that my Brother In Law's truck didn't do any better than my stock truck. By the way, his truck also has Ikon coil overs, which is why he is so pissed. Maybe it's because it's a Toyota lol.

My simple question is this. Is there anything wrong with the body lift kit? Lot's of people have them, and lots of people have the leveler kit. I was hoping to hear from someone with that particular kit.

I know everybody is going to say that gold plated coil overs are better, but in a perfect world I'd have tons of extra money to spend. I don't. With the difference between this kit and a suspension lift I can buy a 42" flatscreen TV too.

I drive my truck about 20,000 miles per year, 99% on the road. I don't jump it over railroad tracks unless I'm trying to embarass my Brother In Law (fortunately I only see him once a year). I just want something that will look lifted and clear bigger tires. Also, I don't tow or haul heavy stuff. Max 250 lbs. in the back. I am worried about front end wear, so a leveling kit that won't cause problems is a high priority.

So given all that is there anything wrong with this?
 
  #18  
Old 01-02-2011, 10:05 PM
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Your brother in laws truck didn't act any differently because the likely only thing different that could have performed differently would be longer rear shocks. the larger tires should have absorbed a bit more than an OEM size tire, but probably not too noticeable.

if your fine running the Body lift/leveling kit combo, then go for it! The problems from a leveling kit will be seen down the road. for example if the life of a ball joint is say, 50k before it needs to be replaced then with a leveling kit that same part might need to be replaced at say 25-30k depending on wear and tear. In a perfect world with all super smooth roads, nice easy drainage dips, etc, etc... you might not see premature wear from a leveling kit till 35-40k maybe, but as we all know the roads are far from perfect!

Just don't expect a smoother ride from either of those type of lifts (body or leveling kit). Why not just run a leveling kit, specifically the AutoSpring sold on ebay (about 70 bucks) and forgo the body lift? This would allow you to clear larger tires, possibly 35's on stock rims if your truck is a 4x4..

A lot of this has to do with personal perception, and opinion. I don't agree with everything thrown out there in this thread, but everyone has their opinion.
 
  #19  
Old 01-02-2011, 10:25 PM
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[QUOTE=FX4life;4445564]

... The problems from a leveling kit will be seen down the road. for example if the life of a ball joint is say, 50k before it needs to be replaced then with a leveling kit that same part might need to be replaced at say 25-30k depending on wear and tear. In a perfect world with all super smooth roads, nice easy drainage dips, etc, etc... you might not see premature wear from a leveling kit till 35-40k maybe, but as we all know the roads are far from perfect!

Just don't expect a smoother ride from either of those type of lifts (body or leveling kit). Why not just run a leveling kit, specifically the AutoSpring sold on ebay (about 70 bucks) and forgo the body lift? This would allow you to clear larger tires, possibly 35's on stock rims if your truck is a 4x4..

QUOTE]

If this kind of leveling kit is going to cause problems, why recommend it over a two piece, which does not screw up the balljoints?
 
  #20  
Old 01-02-2011, 10:28 PM
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  #21  
Old 01-03-2011, 12:02 AM
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[QUOTE=Ibrocun;4445587]
Originally Posted by FX4life

... The problems from a leveling kit will be seen down the road. for example if the life of a ball joint is say, 50k before it needs to be replaced then with a leveling kit that same part might need to be replaced at say 25-30k depending on wear and tear. In a perfect world with all super smooth roads, nice easy drainage dips, etc, etc... you might not see premature wear from a leveling kit till 35-40k maybe, but as we all know the roads are far from perfect!

Just don't expect a smoother ride from either of those type of lifts (body or leveling kit). Why not just run a leveling kit, specifically the AutoSpring sold on ebay (about 70 bucks) and forgo the body lift? This would allow you to clear larger tires, possibly 35's on stock rims if your truck is a 4x4..

QUOTE]

If this kind of leveling kit is going to cause problems, why recommend it over a two piece, which does not screw up the balljoints?
That video was worthless as to what a two piece was... No clue what your talking about anyway. Any leveling kit on these trucks is going to mess with the angles and components no matter which way you go about it.

We made our recommendation of a suspension lift, but the OP seems against it so a leveling kit is it. He will be fine for a certain amount of time, but with leveling kits premature wear and tear is inevitable because of the way it achieves the lift.

I only mention the autospring because it avoids bodylifts, which I despise, and is cheaper than the leveling kit included in that kit and does the same thing...
 

Last edited by FX4life; 01-03-2011 at 12:05 AM.
  #22  
Old 01-03-2011, 12:11 AM
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I say if you like it go for it, its your truck and you know what it will be used for. Also a body lift won't affect your suspension at all, that's why its called a BODY lift, just pulls the body off the frame.
 
  #23  
Old 01-03-2011, 01:07 AM
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Entertaing thread!!

Keep in mind, that with a bodylift, install can be a PITA. If funds are a issue, and you cannot save no money at all for a suspension lift, then go for it. Its your truck. Also, if you pay a shop to install a BL its gonna cost you. Assuming the install is similar to the '04-'08. BL can look good if you take the extra cosmetic steps to make look right. But IMO I would put on a leveling kit, or maybe some Bilsteins 5100's, and use that setup untill you can save up for a suspension lift.

I've been on fence about choosing between a BL or a suspension lift for over a year now. $300 for BL, $600 or more for install, thats almost $1000 right there. If you put on the BL yourself you can save alot of money, but if your truck is a daily driver that may be a issue. I just think that with a newer truck I would definatley go the suspension route.

Thats why I've decided to save up and get a suspension lift. Not knocking BL at all, theirs a few on this forum that looks really good, but I know I'll be much happier with a suspension lift.

Like others that stated in this thread, it all depends on how much you want to spend and what your using it for.
 
  #24  
Old 01-03-2011, 01:10 AM
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[QUOTE=FX4life;4445690]
Originally Posted by Ibrocun

....That video was worthless as to what a two piece was... No clue what your talking about anyway. Any leveling kit on these trucks is going to mess with the angles and components no matter which way you go about it.

...
A single-piece strut spacer sits on top of the strut and pushes the entire assembly down. As you point out, it maxes out the ball joints because the control arms are being pushed down beyond the range they were designed to be operated in.

But a two-piece works differently. It has a much smaller spacer on top of the strut and another within the strut. The one inside the strut provides some pretension, lifting the vehicle. It also prevents the strut from extending beyond the limit that the ball joints can handle. The plate on top finishes the lift.
While it's a superior design, it's been hard to catch on. It's more expensive to manufacture, and more complicated to install. But people are willing to deny the connection between their failing ball joints and their $80 leveling kits in order to scoff at one that costs $180 and requires a strut compressor to install. Several manufacturers abandoned the two piece design to sell a cheaper one because they could not fight the "cheaper is better" mentality.
 
  #25  
Old 01-03-2011, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by UofKboy
Entertaing thread!!

Keep in mind, that with a bodylift, install can be a PITA. If funds are a issue, and you cannot save no money at all for a suspension lift, then go for it. Its your truck. Also, if you pay a shop to install a BL its gonna cost you. Assuming the install is similar to the '04-'08. BL can look good if you take the extra cosmetic steps to make look right. But IMO I would put on a leveling kit, or maybe some Bilsteins 5100's, and use that setup untill you can save up for a suspension lift.

I've been on fence about choosing between a BL or a suspension lift for over a year now. $300 for BL, $600 or more for install, thats almost $1000 right there. If you put on the BL yourself you can save alot of money, but if your truck is a daily driver that may be a issue. I just think that with a newer truck I would definatley go the suspension route.

Thats why I've decided to save up and get a suspension lift. Not knocking BL at all, theirs a few on this forum that looks really good, but I know I'll be much happier with a suspension lift.

Like others that stated in this thread, it all depends on how much you want to spend and what your using it for.
FYI, '09+ body lifts are much easier than earlier generations. All the body bolts come up from under the cab. No more taking out the back seat or pulling up carpet to get to them. That saves an hour+ of labor. In '10 Ford switched to electric fans, so no more fan shroud to relocate. Another hour of labor saved.
What you said about taking the time on the cosmetic stuff (gap guards) is absolutely right. Do the job correctly, and it's a great option if you are looking to keep the ride stock, or at least close to stock. I'm all for body lifts when they are done right, but if you shortcut the job it can look horrible.
 
  #26  
Old 01-03-2011, 02:59 AM
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Thanks for the info, I wasn't aware that the new gen's were much easier to install BL's. Sounds as if it take half the time to install too!!
 
  #27  
Old 01-03-2011, 02:07 PM
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Wow, lots of information and opinions on this thread...

Here is my take,

Quite simply, the Raptor is amazing, we all agree on that. However, it is not good at ALL off roading. An regular F150 with a 4" or higher lift and 35" or larger tires (the raptor's are 35 BFGs, not the best off road tire) will have better approach, departure, and breakover angles than the Raptor. Plus, the Raptor has been widened so taking it down an off road trail would be a tight fit. So for slow speed trail riding or general off roading, a SUSPENSION lifted F150 would do quite well.

The Raptor as previously stated is for those of us lucky enough to have access to the desert or off road tracks that allow high speed driving. The suspension travel is of course better than what you are going to get out of nearly any modified F150 unless you basically try and copy the Raptor's suspension system.

So far as the various lift kit options, my opinion is that a Body kit, although cheap to buy, takes A LOT of work to install, not enough IMO to compensate for the price difference between a body and suspension lift. Body lifts are left with unsightly gaps between the frame and body (you can fill these, but they still dont look quite right) and the body spacers are prone to failure after a few years, especially if you venture off road.

A 2" spacer or leveling kit is a bad idea in my opinion because you are changing the intended angles and geometry of the IFS. As others have said, ball joints will prematurely fail and you can max out the A arms and components with the 1 piece spacers. The half shaft angles are also stressed as the angle is constantly more than intended.

IMO a suspension lift is the only option. No one will argue that a strut replacement system is "better" than a strut spacer kit, but I would say it is different and that in most situaitions, a less expensive one piece strut spacer system would be fine. I have a 6" strut spacer system and have been off road (not jumping tracks) on a trail and had very good performance out of this system. Where a strut replacement system is better is with front end articulation and ride quality, as you can choose a shock that is better tuned to the modified suspension.
A complete suspension lift system will use drop brackets on your IFS to keep all of the front end geometry as intended. Ball joints may still wear faster over time due to larger tires, but are not at the extreme angles that you get from a spacer without drop brackets.

Choose wisely and rememeber saving up for a better system in the beginning may save headaches down the road. Just my .02
 
  #28  
Old 01-03-2011, 02:44 PM
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[QUOTE=Ibrocun;4445738]
Originally Posted by FX4life

A single-piece strut spacer sits on top of the strut and pushes the entire assembly down. As you point out, it maxes out the ball joints because the control arms are being pushed down beyond the range they were designed to be operated in.

But a two-piece works differently. It has a much smaller spacer on top of the strut and another within the strut. The one inside the strut provides some pretension, lifting the vehicle. It also prevents the strut from extending beyond the limit that the ball joints can handle. The plate on top finishes the lift.
While it's a superior design, it's been hard to catch on. It's more expensive to manufacture, and more complicated to install. But people are willing to deny the connection between their failing ball joints and their $80 leveling kits in order to scoff at one that costs $180 and requires a strut compressor to install. Several manufacturers abandoned the two piece design to sell a cheaper one because they could not fight the "cheaper is better" mentality.

i guess without actually seeing one installed I just can't really see it working any differently than a 1 piece. I see how they are trying to get around the angles, but I can't see it working any differently. It would also increase the ride harshness if you are putting more preload on the coil spring, just like cranking an aftermarket coilover. If you have any pics of this kit installed I'd love to see them, it sounds interesting to say the least..

Daystar used to make 2 piece poly leveling kits that installed on the coil spring increasing the preload to provide lift, but it too increased the IFS angles and changed the ride quality.
 
  #29  
Old 01-03-2011, 03:45 PM
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[QUOTE=FX4life;4446237]
Originally Posted by Ibrocun


i guess without actually seeing one installed I just can't really see it working any differently than a 1 piece. I see how they are trying to get around the angles, but I can't see it working any differently. It would also increase the ride harshness if you are putting more preload on the coil spring, just like cranking an aftermarket coilover. If you have any pics of this kit installed I'd love to see them, it sounds interesting to say the least..

Daystar used to make 2 piece poly leveling kits that installed on the coil spring increasing the preload to provide lift, but it too increased the IFS angles and changed the ride quality.
Watch the video again, they show it, but I guess you have to be looking for it.

No doubt you'll get the best possible ride out of a suspension lift with a full strut replacement. But if you get the right mix of preload and strut plate, you can keep the geometry in spec and not change the ride much. I've driven a truck with this setup and it rides and handles pretty much like stock. I notice more of a change in the ride from different tires than I do the leveling kit.

One more advantage i can think of if you are looking at this kit for a daily driver is the turning radius. The large knuckles that are used in the suspension kits cut down your turning radius substantially. If you have to make a bunch of three-point turns instead of U turns in your daily routine, a suspension lift might be a down-side.
 
  #30  
Old 01-04-2011, 01:21 AM
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[QUOTE=FX4life;4446237]
Originally Posted by Ibrocun


i guess without actually seeing one installed I just can't really see it working any differently than a 1 piece. I see how they are trying to get around the angles, but I can't see it working any differently. It would also increase the ride harshness if you are putting more preload on the coil spring, just like cranking an aftermarket coilover. If you have any pics of this kit installed I'd love to see them, it sounds interesting to say the least..

Daystar used to make 2 piece poly leveling kits that installed on the coil spring increasing the preload to provide lift, but it too increased the IFS angles and changed the ride quality.
I have the BDS spacer. It's two piece. http://bds-suspension.com/productFlyer/BDS_NPR-572H.pdf

No balljoint issues and it rides great. My boss just switched to this after having a single piece spacer and going through two sets of balljoints. The shop that we deal with won't install anything but these now.
 


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