2010 Platinum-New Headlights (Smoked Projector Beam HID w/LEDs)
#20
01-18-2011 | 01:59 AM
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From: Louisville, KY
Yes. Volkswagen is an avid customer of Bosch's bi-xenon projectors.
You're right, there is. Its called costs. A seperate low and high is cheaper than once light that does both. If a bi-xenon projector goes out, you lose BOTH lights, and OEM projectors run up to $1000. Single-beam low beam projectors are only a couple hundred and easier to manufacture.
And they do. They raise the cutoff shield to illuminate objects farther ahead.
With bi-xenons, thats all you HAVE to do. Halogens require two different bulbs to achieve the same purpose as bi-xenons. That's the whole point of them.
Let me refer you to my classic Halogens vs. HIDs thread:
As you can see, The NHSTA, DOT section 108 states that low beams must emit a light UP TO 150 feet, but not to irriate other drivers. These are my projectors, and the cutoff line is EXACTLY at 150 feet.
Bi-xenon projectors, CHECK
The same section also states that high-beams must illuminate objects AT LEAST 400 feet in front of the vehicle.
Bi-xenon projectors, CHECK.
Where is your proof? I've had cheap chinese drop-in be-xenon bulbs with the moving magnetic base in my OEM reflectors, and I've done plenty of homework. The axial point for high beams is DEAD CENTER of the reflector. So yes your HIDs are hitting that, but for low beams, the focal point is HIGHER and to the RIGHT of center. All bi-xenon HIDs do is pull the bulb back. That's not doing anything.
How so? Where does it say all projectors must have separate high-beams? I've read both NHSTA and FMVSS 108. Have you? I've got a copy right here I could e-mail you just in case.
To each their own. When you post on this site, you must be prepared for comments, good or bad. Don't get all defensive because NCSU posted bad. That's the circle of life. Get thicker skin or get off the internet.
Do you homework, spanky. I have and there are. Case in point, the 2006 Toyota Solara. OEM projectors, dual beam halogens. The projectors use a 9006 halogen bulb. Not acceptible for HID applications. HIDs have a different focal point than halogens. If you read my article, you would know that. In case you missed it, here is the link again.
Facepalm. HIDs run at a cooler operating temperature than halogens. So they would melt under halogen operating temperature before they melted at HID temps.
So you have a certificate saying that your projectors and HIDs meet DOT/SAE specifications? Feel free to post it. "Recommendations" don't fly.
Wrong. Again, HID projectors and halogen projectors are different. Yours are the latter. Now while they do offer less glare than reflectors, still aren't "safe".
55W is only going to make your problem worse. The reason you can't get light output with 35W while others can is because you dont have the right lenses or setup. Get real HID optics if you want nice light.
Those are called auto-leveling headlamps. They are only required in Europe as dictated by ECE regulation 48, but the FMVSS does not require them in North America.
If you have done a retrofit you need to learn two aiming spots need to be done. One outside the vehicle, and once completed, mount it to the vehicle and then aim from there.
Might want to check again. You can adjust them, but you need to remove them. There should be no need for horizontal adjustment on stock lights.
Because they are so crappy and do not conform to the standard Ford set that you have to do it yourself.
I agree
I agree
I agree
Remember, when you point one finger at someone, you've got three pointed right back at you.
Retrofits can be had for as little as $100. All boils down to shopping. All you really need is the projectors (ebay, cough cough) and a HID setup.
He already has those
You're right, there is. Its called costs. A seperate low and high is cheaper than once light that does both. If a bi-xenon projector goes out, you lose BOTH lights, and OEM projectors run up to $1000. Single-beam low beam projectors are only a couple hundred and easier to manufacture.
And they do. They raise the cutoff shield to illuminate objects farther ahead.
With bi-xenons, thats all you HAVE to do. Halogens require two different bulbs to achieve the same purpose as bi-xenons. That's the whole point of them.
Let me refer you to my classic Halogens vs. HIDs thread:
As you can see, The NHSTA, DOT section 108 states that low beams must emit a light UP TO 150 feet, but not to irriate other drivers. These are my projectors, and the cutoff line is EXACTLY at 150 feet.
Bi-xenon projectors, CHECK
The same section also states that high-beams must illuminate objects AT LEAST 400 feet in front of the vehicle.
Bi-xenon projectors, CHECK.
Where is your proof? I've had cheap chinese drop-in be-xenon bulbs with the moving magnetic base in my OEM reflectors, and I've done plenty of homework. The axial point for high beams is DEAD CENTER of the reflector. So yes your HIDs are hitting that, but for low beams, the focal point is HIGHER and to the RIGHT of center. All bi-xenon HIDs do is pull the bulb back. That's not doing anything.
How so? Where does it say all projectors must have separate high-beams? I've read both NHSTA and FMVSS 108. Have you? I've got a copy right here I could e-mail you just in case.
To each their own. When you post on this site, you must be prepared for comments, good or bad. Don't get all defensive because NCSU posted bad. That's the circle of life. Get thicker skin or get off the internet.
Do you homework, spanky. I have and there are. Case in point, the 2006 Toyota Solara. OEM projectors, dual beam halogens. The projectors use a 9006 halogen bulb. Not acceptible for HID applications. HIDs have a different focal point than halogens. If you read my article, you would know that. In case you missed it, here is the link again.
Facepalm. HIDs run at a cooler operating temperature than halogens. So they would melt under halogen operating temperature before they melted at HID temps.
So you have a certificate saying that your projectors and HIDs meet DOT/SAE specifications? Feel free to post it. "Recommendations" don't fly.
Wrong. Again, HID projectors and halogen projectors are different. Yours are the latter. Now while they do offer less glare than reflectors, still aren't "safe".
55W is only going to make your problem worse. The reason you can't get light output with 35W while others can is because you dont have the right lenses or setup. Get real HID optics if you want nice light.
Those are called auto-leveling headlamps. They are only required in Europe as dictated by ECE regulation 48, but the FMVSS does not require them in North America.
If you have done a retrofit you need to learn two aiming spots need to be done. One outside the vehicle, and once completed, mount it to the vehicle and then aim from there.
Might want to check again. You can adjust them, but you need to remove them. There should be no need for horizontal adjustment on stock lights.
Because they are so crappy and do not conform to the standard Ford set that you have to do it yourself.
I agree
I agree
I agree
Remember, when you point one finger at someone, you've got three pointed right back at you.
Retrofits can be had for as little as $100. All boils down to shopping. All you really need is the projectors (ebay, cough cough) and a HID setup.
He already has those
But I did key in on one thing you said. "Spanky"??? I love idiots that pop off on the internet and call people names. The keyboard gives them a false sense of BMF. That's a bada$$ MF'er for ya right there. Bahaha... You wanna call names, ya got the wrong dude, brother.
Last edited by casedog; 01-18-2011 at 03:19 AM.
#21
01-18-2011 | 02:51 AM
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From: Louisville, KY
For the rest of you that are actually interested... here are the pics.
The pics were taken in the rain so the wet ground DOES reflect SOME light above the cutoffline. You'll see it in the middle of wall n kinda looks like eyebrows. Also, Like I mentioned before, I monkeyed with the aim so unfortunately the passenger side light is slightly out of alignment with the driverside. This is what caused the slight haze at the cutoff line from the center to passenger side. And I mean slight. This is completely fixable. I will re-aim and sharpen that cutoff even more.
OH, and I took some with the flash on so everyone knows its my truck. The HIDs do need more power though. Maybe retro's would add that. But since I do have a cutoff, I will upgrade to 55w and still be safe.
Before you say it, lol, I also need to measure my beam height. My lift probably has the headlight factory settings screwed up since it is higher and no longer has the nose-down stock rake. Will be Adding height to the rear soon anyway but will re-aim these down tomorrow...It's not hitting oncoming cars but it looks high.
AGAIN (lol)... THE LIGHT ABOVE THE CUTOFF IS REFLECTION OFF THE PUDDLES. THE HAZE IN PART OF THE CUTOFF IS DUE TO SOME PASSENGER SIDE LIGHT REALLIGNMENT NEEDED.
Side cut-off:
Inside truck:
Yup, its my truck:
And again:
Hope that clears things up. No, I DO NOT claim these are better or equal to retrofits. It's a much cheaper alternative that looks REALLY good night or day, isnt heated n resealed, greatly improves the poorly functioning stock hi-beams (i have halogens in the hibeams right now still, as most OEM setups do)... and I will let the pics speak for themselves. You decide.
Thanks guys...
The pics were taken in the rain so the wet ground DOES reflect SOME light above the cutoffline. You'll see it in the middle of wall n kinda looks like eyebrows. Also, Like I mentioned before, I monkeyed with the aim so unfortunately the passenger side light is slightly out of alignment with the driverside. This is what caused the slight haze at the cutoff line from the center to passenger side. And I mean slight. This is completely fixable. I will re-aim and sharpen that cutoff even more.
OH, and I took some with the flash on so everyone knows its my truck. The HIDs do need more power though. Maybe retro's would add that. But since I do have a cutoff, I will upgrade to 55w and still be safe.
Before you say it, lol, I also need to measure my beam height. My lift probably has the headlight factory settings screwed up since it is higher and no longer has the nose-down stock rake. Will be Adding height to the rear soon anyway but will re-aim these down tomorrow...It's not hitting oncoming cars but it looks high.
AGAIN (lol)... THE LIGHT ABOVE THE CUTOFF IS REFLECTION OFF THE PUDDLES. THE HAZE IN PART OF THE CUTOFF IS DUE TO SOME PASSENGER SIDE LIGHT REALLIGNMENT NEEDED.
Side cut-off:
Inside truck:
Yup, its my truck:
And again:
Hope that clears things up. No, I DO NOT claim these are better or equal to retrofits. It's a much cheaper alternative that looks REALLY good night or day, isnt heated n resealed, greatly improves the poorly functioning stock hi-beams (i have halogens in the hibeams right now still, as most OEM setups do)... and I will let the pics speak for themselves. You decide.
Thanks guys...
Last edited by casedog; 01-18-2011 at 04:09 AM.
#22
01-18-2011 | 03:40 AM
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From: Louisville, KY
Ohhhh...also, there IS another set of projector healights out there without LEDs that look good. They do have halos still though... and they are they brighter CCFL halos. You dont have to connect the halos if you dont like them. I can understand ya there. The un-lit halo rings arent very noticeable at all if you leave them disconnected.
#23
01-18-2011 | 03:54 AM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,862
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From: Northern California
Looks good. Still a bit of glare and not quite the performance of a retrofit as you mentioned, but still FAR better than the drop-in kits.
To adjust your headlights, pull up right to that wall as close as you can. Put some tape right at your cutoff line where the light is brightest (hot spot). Then back up 25 ft, and adjust so the cutoff is ~3" below the tape line. Then you will be set.
To adjust your headlights, pull up right to that wall as close as you can. Put some tape right at your cutoff line where the light is brightest (hot spot). Then back up 25 ft, and adjust so the cutoff is ~3" below the tape line. Then you will be set.
#25
01-18-2011 | 04:04 AM
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From: Louisville, KY
Looks good. Still a bit of glare and not quite the performance of a retrofit as you mentioned, but still FAR better than the drop-in kits.
To adjust your headlights, pull up right to that wall as close as you can. Put some tape right at your cutoff line where the light is brightest (hot spot). Then back up 25 ft, and adjust so the cutoff is ~3" below the tape line. Then you will be set.
To adjust your headlights, pull up right to that wall as close as you can. Put some tape right at your cutoff line where the light is brightest (hot spot). Then back up 25 ft, and adjust so the cutoff is ~3" below the tape line. Then you will be set.
Okay... 3" below the cutoff at 25ft.... thanks!
#26
01-18-2011 | 08:02 AM
Jeeze dog, relax and remember to breathe, you'll live longer. Those are much better than HIDs in the stock housing.
The fact that you won't, or can't, respond to Raptor should tell everyone what they need to know.
You were the one complaining about the scattered light and dim Halos, which is why I said "you get what you pay for", you're the one who twisted that into an insult. As others said, you can do a retro fit for under $400. I also got a warranty and customer service with mine, yes I paid more for mine, but to me that's a non-issue.
Where are the pics of the high beams, and of the headlights while they're turned on? It looks like the highs have a reflector, not a projector.
Please, tear into my truck, I think we'd all get a kick out of that. Make a whole new thread about it if it'll make you feel better.
Also, Raptor did the retrofit himself, saved a bunch of money.
- NCSU
The fact that you won't, or can't, respond to Raptor should tell everyone what they need to know.
You were the one complaining about the scattered light and dim Halos, which is why I said "you get what you pay for", you're the one who twisted that into an insult. As others said, you can do a retro fit for under $400. I also got a warranty and customer service with mine, yes I paid more for mine, but to me that's a non-issue.
Where are the pics of the high beams, and of the headlights while they're turned on? It looks like the highs have a reflector, not a projector.
Please, tear into my truck, I think we'd all get a kick out of that. Make a whole new thread about it if it'll make you feel better.
Also, Raptor did the retrofit himself, saved a bunch of money.
- NCSU
Last edited by NCSU_05_FX4; 01-18-2011 at 08:23 AM.
#27
01-18-2011 | 11:56 AM
I am not even going through all of that to quote because half of it was you popping off. And funny, you say I was pointing a finger. Uhhh no, I started my own thread about my lights (which no one has so I did a review). The finger got pointed my way when NCSU said my lights were unsafe, cheap (quote "you get what you pay for"), etc etc. You two spent money of retro-fits... did u see me hop on either of your threads n start hating on your trucks...nope. If you dont have anything constructive to say, then shut up and move on. A lesson you should have learned. The comments about my setup were based on ASSUMPTIONs just as much as you say my comments were. I could tear apart BOTH of your trucks... but I didnt. I read, learned, liked, disliked, and moved on. You two "act" like you know my setup was unsafe and garbage. But really you are just as misinformed as you say I am. Because your talking about a few you've seen that werent adjusted by someone as **** as me, lol. Plus youre jaded because you spent $700 on the retros. And you misunderstood half the stuff I said too.
But I did key in on one thing you said. "Spanky"??? I love idiots that pop off on the internet and call people names. The keyboard gives them a false sense of BMF. That's a bada$$ MF'er for ya right there. Bahaha... You wanna call names, ya got the wrong dude, brother.
But I did key in on one thing you said. "Spanky"??? I love idiots that pop off on the internet and call people names. The keyboard gives them a false sense of BMF. That's a bada$$ MF'er for ya right there. Bahaha... You wanna call names, ya got the wrong dude, brother.
Like I said before, if you want to be able to dish it out, you have to take it too. My truck doesn't appeal to everyone and I'm sorry, feel free to let me know. I don't get hung up about my mods because when the day is over, I sleep the same.
And you're right. I love name calling, I can't afford the lift and mud tires with exhaust so I have to extrude my lack of size some other way.
Jeeze dog, relax and remember to breathe, you'll live longer. Those are much better than HIDs in the stock housing.
The fact that you won't, or can't, respond to Raptor should tell everyone what they need to know.
You were the one complaining about the scattered light and dim Halos, which is why I said "you get what you pay for", you're the one who twisted that into an insult. As others said, you can do a retro fit for under $400. I also got a warranty and customer service with mine, yes I paid more for mine, but to me that's a non-issue.
Where are the pics of the high beams, and of the headlights while they're turned on? It looks like the highs have a reflector, not a projector.
Please, tear into my truck, I think we'd all get a kick out of that. Make a whole new thread about it if it'll make you feel better.
Also, Raptor did the retrofit himself, saved a bunch of money.
- NCSU
The fact that you won't, or can't, respond to Raptor should tell everyone what they need to know.
You were the one complaining about the scattered light and dim Halos, which is why I said "you get what you pay for", you're the one who twisted that into an insult. As others said, you can do a retro fit for under $400. I also got a warranty and customer service with mine, yes I paid more for mine, but to me that's a non-issue.
Where are the pics of the high beams, and of the headlights while they're turned on? It looks like the highs have a reflector, not a projector.
Please, tear into my truck, I think we'd all get a kick out of that. Make a whole new thread about it if it'll make you feel better.
Also, Raptor did the retrofit himself, saved a bunch of money.
- NCSU
------------------
Mean guy out, they do cast a better projection line than I thought. Still a bit of glare, but compared to regular reflectors, that is a damned good beam. The housings themselves look ricey but I think you did a pretty good job.
Last edited by Raptor05121; 01-18-2011 at 11:58 AM.
#28
01-18-2011 | 01:06 PM
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 188
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From: Louisville, KY
Jeeze dog, relax and remember to breathe, you'll live longer. Those are much better than HIDs in the stock housing.
The fact that you won't, or can't, respond to Raptor should tell everyone what they need to know.
You were the one complaining about the scattered light and dim Halos, which is why I said "you get what you pay for", you're the one who twisted that into an insult. As others said, you can do a retro fit for under $400. I also got a warranty and customer service with mine, yes I paid more for mine, but to me that's a non-issue.
Where are the pics of the high beams, and of the headlights while they're turned on? It looks like the highs have a reflector, not a projector.
Please, tear into my truck, I think we'd all get a kick out of that. Make a whole new thread about it if it'll make you feel better.
Also, Raptor did the retrofit himself, saved a bunch of money.
- NCSU
The fact that you won't, or can't, respond to Raptor should tell everyone what they need to know.
You were the one complaining about the scattered light and dim Halos, which is why I said "you get what you pay for", you're the one who twisted that into an insult. As others said, you can do a retro fit for under $400. I also got a warranty and customer service with mine, yes I paid more for mine, but to me that's a non-issue.
Where are the pics of the high beams, and of the headlights while they're turned on? It looks like the highs have a reflector, not a projector.
Please, tear into my truck, I think we'd all get a kick out of that. Make a whole new thread about it if it'll make you feel better.
Also, Raptor did the retrofit himself, saved a bunch of money.
- NCSU
And I can respond to alot of what Raptor said but I dont feel like indvidually quoting EVERY SINGLE THING. I dont need to answer to the HID police. You "retro" guys hop on EVERY HID thread and bash everything and I just happen to be the guy that said s.t.f.u. Many, if not all, of us have done illegal things to our trucks. If they choose to do an HID setup, then let em. Look up ANY HID thread on here and you'll see one or more Retrofiit guys bashing. I posted the pics u requested, I have the cutoff u said i wouldnt, Im not blinding anyone like u said i would... you were wrong. Admit it. THAT, my friend, tells everyone what they need to know. Quit asking for more pics to try and find a reason to bash. If you'd read, the hibeams are reflectors with the proper halogen bulbs as MOST (99%) car manufactures use with OE HID setups. There will never be HIDs in my hibeams. But I will post pics.
I was wrong about no OEM HID setups using bixenons. I had my doubts because the OEM BiXenon setups (as raptor eluded to) are like $2000+. I had my doubts (which is why I made the comment about bixenons) that a $100 retrofit w/o a motorized plate would work. The pics prove me wrong. I was suprised. I will admit.
I also said bixenons would work in a stock housing properly meaning cycling from hi to low (because there was no cutoff plate blocking the hi beam from working). Raptor missed that I also said they would also BLIND everyone at the same time. So although the low-to-hi adjustment would work in a stock housing easier, they would still be unsafe. I think raptor thought I was saying they worked perfectly in a stock housing. I actually agree with what he said in that the reflector angles would still be all wrong for the HID. This was just a misunderstanding.
Like I said, lots of misunderstandings. And I cant remember them all. But raptor also avoided points too.
Raptor never addressed the baking and resealing issues I mentioned. That's personal preference but a definite no-go characteristic for me. Especially since I have heard the 09-10 models are sealed diferently (crimp fused (melted) in some way). Although I've seen one already retro fitted.
DOT approved... mine are. Yes, even for HIDs. (I dont claim to be an expert here, just to clarify). Retro fits are not (the projector might be, but the baked, popped housing is not. Not that any police officer would notice. But get blamed for an accidednt and have to admit you cracked open a headlight and you might (i dont know) have some issues. Again, I do all kinds of dumb illegal mods so not my concern, but might be for the next guy.
My only concern was PRICE and popping n resealing these new 2009-10 lights.
And I do have a warranty. Although mine are cheap enough, I would just throw em away and buy something else if I wanted something else lol.
And brother, if I wanted to bash a truck, I definitely could. I won't go there. Everyone has there own tastes. Hey I like the look of your headlights, said it twice or more now, just dont like the price or popping n resealing a light. Your comment about ":go ahead WE WILL ALL GET A LAUGH" makes me think that you think your truck is hott??? Show worthy??? Hmmmmmm... I'll just stick to saying "I like your headlights".
So Find a new thread. You made you required "RETROFIT Team" - "HID Police" appearance on this HID thread so move on. Next time you have the urge to go on an HID thread and say something wont work before you've actually seen it, think again. If it turns out like crap, then give some constructive advise to fix. Retros aren't the only answer. Peace!
Last edited by casedog; 01-18-2011 at 01:31 PM.
#29
01-18-2011 | 01:20 PM
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From: Louisville, KY
Direct the blame all you wanted, I corrected you on what you "think" you know about lights. I'm no genius but I've also done quite a bit of reading on the subject. Also, to set the record straight I only spent $167.54 doing my retrofits.
Like I said before, if you want to be able to dish it out, you have to take it too. My truck doesn't appeal to everyone and I'm sorry, feel free to let me know. I don't get hung up about my mods because when the day is over, I sleep the same.
And you're right. I love name calling, I can't afford the lift and mud tires with exhaust so I have to extrude my lack of size some other way.
His high beams aren't projectors, just a reflector with a 55W H3 transverse-mounted bulb. It does put out 1300 lumens but not the ideal bulb for a demanding job. I've since retired my H3s are DRL duty and let the 9005 take over.
------------------
Mean guy out, they do cast a better projection line than I thought. Still a bit of glare, but compared to regular reflectors, that is a damned good beam. The housings themselves look ricey but I think you did a pretty good job.
Like I said before, if you want to be able to dish it out, you have to take it too. My truck doesn't appeal to everyone and I'm sorry, feel free to let me know. I don't get hung up about my mods because when the day is over, I sleep the same.
And you're right. I love name calling, I can't afford the lift and mud tires with exhaust so I have to extrude my lack of size some other way.
His high beams aren't projectors, just a reflector with a 55W H3 transverse-mounted bulb. It does put out 1300 lumens but not the ideal bulb for a demanding job. I've since retired my H3s are DRL duty and let the 9005 take over.
------------------
Mean guy out, they do cast a better projection line than I thought. Still a bit of glare, but compared to regular reflectors, that is a damned good beam. The housings themselves look ricey but I think you did a pretty good job.
Last edited by casedog; 01-18-2011 at 01:32 PM.
#30
01-18-2011 | 01:21 PM
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From: Louisville, KY
