Here are a few phone pics... more to come when weather isnt so cold.

Smoked Projector Headlights with 35w 6000k HIDs, LED marker lights, and Halos. Package deal bought on ebay for $320. I saw the other thread with the retro-fits for almost $900... Ill take these and save my money.

My Review of the package:
Headlights look GREAT. A bit darker than I thought the smoked would be but I like em a lot.

The HID cutoff line is a bit odd, I will admit, and adjusting them aint easy. Still figuring it out. Definitely has a cutoff but throws SOME light upward but not in the eyes of oncoming traffic. To the sides it has a perfect cutoff line but in the center, it throws a lot of light upwards. I dont get it. Tried adjusting but the up-down n right-left adjustment works oddly.

ANYWAY... Halos and LEDS are dim. Halos are REALLY dim n not visible in daylight. LEDs are slightly visible in daylight. NOT audi-like brightness. They should have mounted LEDs out further in the the reflector too IMO.

HIDs that came in package are only 35w and could use more power. 50-55w is the better choice. The 6000k color HIDs in this pkg are the perfect (non-blue...non-ricer)HID color.

The design of the hi-beam reflectors blows away the poorly performing stock hi-beams for those hating the stock hi-beams like me.

All in all For $320, they look amazing and perform well. HIDs are much better than stock but need to be 55w version. These projectors have a cutoff but arent cutting off like like retro fits seem to. Might be able to adjust more, I\idk???

Note: I didnt buy these lights for the halos or LEDS (bought em because I wanted smoked headlights to match the greyish platinum grill) but if u want really bright halos, get the other projector headlights out on the market that have the CCFL halos (although those dont have the LED marker lights).





Halos are ON in this 3rd pic... not visible in daylight!

 

very informative. Do they offer a 55w version in the lights you got? i want HID but im not a fan of the LED strip and halos, i dont think they belong on a truck. Does anyone make a good looking projector for this price?

 

And blind oncoming traffic. At least be sure to aim your lights low.


This is because you get what you pay for... the projectors you bought were most likely not intended for use with HIDs. You'll never be able to get the cut off like the retro-fits provide. Are you headlights bi-xenon, meaning, do you still have low beam and high beam?

Get some pics of the lights on!

That's just a matter of buying a 55w HID kit, nothing more. Not related to the projectors at all.

No, nobody makes an HID projector drop in replacement. To get it done properly you need to go with a retro fit.

- NCSU

 

Looks good i have seen that truck around the ville a couple times

 

those are pretty sweet dude, I was looking into a LED solution myself.

 

Those seem to flow pretty good with your truck.

 

NCSU, they look to be a split-beam design.

I agree, halogen projectors with a HID drop-in= not as good as retrofits

 

For the record, the only reason they were almost $900 for me is because I didn't do it all at one time from the beginning; I did plug-n-play HID kit first, and then this, and I also bought a second set of headlights to use.

If someone used their stock headlights, and bought the retrofit kit all as one package, and had HIDIllusionz do the labor, it would actually be closer to the $675 price point....if they did the work themselves, it would only cost about $320, which is identical in price to what you spent.

 

First off... I'll just go ahead and say how much I hate when people hop on a thread just to bash. Especially when it appears the basher didnt do ALL of his homework. Maybe some, but not all. Hope that prepares you all for what Im going to say...

NCSU...uhhhh first you need to read better bud. Or at least look at the pictures. There are independent brights and low beams. So there is no need for Bi-xenons as another member mentioned.

On that note, if you want to get in to PROPER way of doing things.... Have you EVER seen a STOCK HID equiped car with HIDs for brights (Bi-Xenons)? With all the billions of dollars of R&D that Mercededes, Audi, BMW, Lincoln, etc have at their disposal, have you ever seen them running bi-xenons? Think there is a reason for that? hmmmmm, yes. So I could say your set-up is garbage too but I don't because everyone has their own opinion and their own requirments. I could even say it's unsafe with improperly working brights (but it's only unsafe for you so Im fine with that, lol). With projectors, you need a DIFFERENT cutoff point for hi-beams to work as designed. All you're doing is throwing brighter light downward at the same spot on the road with bi-xenons in projectors. Now, bi-xenons brights in a open (stock) reflector WILL work properly but as we agree, they can be blinding due to lack of light control. Now if your retro-fits had sepearate brights, you'd be fine but they don't. NCSU setup flaw #1.

And if you want pryed open and resealed lights, go for it. Id rather not have that. PLUS, I wanted a drastically different looking light. Not painted stock lights. Now that beind said, I like the looks of your lights, but I wouldn't pay $700 to get spray painted and resealed headlights. I'd do it myself if that were the case. Heated, opened, spray painted and Resealed headlights for $700... NCSU Setup Flaw #2. (again, I like the looks of yours)

And tell me where you read that there are projectors JUST for HIDs and projectors JUST for halogens as far as optics go? Doesnt exist. If they do, I apologize for missing it. I think you bought the $700 koolaid there. Now there are some "fake" projectors made of plastic without the cutoff plates that would melt. That's why they aren't for HIDs. That is not these. And I haven't came across those fake ones anymore as so many people want HIDs in projectors that these aftermarket companies are making them metal and with cutoff plates. Also, this company sells them WITH HIDs so they are recommended. Yes, HIDs CAN blind others if placed in a stock reflector. Agreed! If placed in a projector (with a cutoff plate... which these do have) then it is safe. Now, although the optics are safe, Im not impressed with the light output from them (which is why I stated they need 55w ballasts).

Another point, you have glued a very PRECISE projector in to a headlight with no new adjustment tools. Just a stock, plastic, Vertical adjuster. REAL projectors (just to bring you back down to earth since you seam to say yours are so superior) have motors that adjust them up and down /left and right while you drive. Yours don't have those motors nor do they add any more adjustment then you had stock. Also, One wonders how well aimed those lights are since they were glued in off the truck (without the truck even being there). Maybe a nonissue but still a concern. And I dont know about your truck, but 2009-10 stock reflectors can only be adjusted up and down... these add left and right adjustment. Lack of adjustment and suspect aiming... NCSU setup flaw #3

Hating is done for now... it's a waste of enrgy. To each there own. Both setups look good. BOTH setups have their flaws. Please research everything before knocking someone elses setup.

That being said... These headlights are not perfect! Quite frustrating to be honest. I made that clear in my write-up as I am not on Spyder headlights payroll, lol. But $700 retros are NOT the only answer. And retros are have flaws of there own other than just price. Decide wisely when you buy either. I dont claim one is superior to the other. I do think the retros have a litte better light output but that gap has been narrowed even more... See below. The headlights I have are a new design with some flaws. I agree, no excuse to relase a product with flaws!!! Part of my frustration. As I said, These were throwing light upward (no not in to the eyes of oncoming traffic... upward as in almost straight up and maybe in the rearview mirror directly in front of truck) because Spyder did not space the bulb back far enough from the reflector. Fix, insert 4 small spacers (7/8th internal retaining ring) and its fixed. So that puts me at $320 lights + $3.20 spacer = $323.20. Do I like having to modify new lights, no! But it was more for taste and the desire to have that clean cutoff line more so than for safety. They weren't blinding (or even hitting)anyone before I did this.

Now, I need to re-aim my lights as I have messed with them so much (before I spaced the headlights back) that I have thrown them off. (LOL, I probably AM blinding traffic now because of my own stupid re-aiming them TOO much. NCSU, I promise I wont drive at night until I fix them for ya bud, lol). Another design flaw is that you have to remove the headlight to get to the horizontal and vertical aiming controls (although I dont see how this could have been improved in the limited space).

Thanks for the positive feedback from the others!!! We are all out to be original and do good quality things to our trucks. Some times we succeed, other times we have set backs. But there's always a fix, a different way, and even a better way. But no ONE person has all the right answers for everyone elses truck.

 

I have not seen a pkg deal with these Spyder headlights that includes the 55w ballasts. I would just buy the Headlights separate from the HID kit.

 

Thanks! Good to have another local truck on here!

 

Yes. Volkswagen is an avid customer of Bosch's bi-xenon projectors.

You're right, there is. Its called costs. A seperate low and high is cheaper than once light that does both. If a bi-xenon projector goes out, you lose BOTH lights, and OEM projectors run up to $1000. Single-beam low beam projectors are only a couple hundred and easier to manufacture.

And they do. They raise the cutoff shield to illuminate objects farther ahead.

With bi-xenons, thats all you HAVE to do. Halogens require two different bulbs to achieve the same purpose as bi-xenons. That's the whole point of them.

Let me refer you to my classic Halogens vs. HIDs thread:

As you can see, The NHSTA, DOT section 108 states that low beams must emit a light UP TO 150 feet, but not to irriate other drivers. These are my projectors, and the cutoff line is EXACTLY at 150 feet.



Bi-xenon projectors, CHECK

The same section also states that high-beams must illuminate objects AT LEAST 400 feet in front of the vehicle.



Bi-xenon projectors, CHECK.

Where is your proof? I've had cheap chinese drop-in be-xenon bulbs with the moving magnetic base in my OEM reflectors, and I've done plenty of homework. The axial point for high beams is DEAD CENTER of the reflector. So yes your HIDs are hitting that, but for low beams, the focal point is HIGHER and to the RIGHT of center. All bi-xenon HIDs do is pull the bulb back. That's not doing anything.

How so? Where does it say all projectors must have separate high-beams? I've read both NHSTA and FMVSS 108. Have you? I've got a copy right here I could e-mail you just in case.

To each their own. When you post on this site, you must be prepared for comments, good or bad. Don't get all defensive because NCSU posted bad. That's the circle of life. Get thicker skin or get off the internet.

Do you homework, spanky. I have and there are. Case in point, the 2006 Toyota Solara. OEM projectors, dual beam halogens. The projectors use a 9006 halogen bulb. Not acceptible for HID applications. HIDs have a different focal point than halogens. If you read my article, you would know that. In case you missed it, here is the link again.

Facepalm. HIDs run at a cooler operating temperature than halogens. So they would melt under halogen operating temperature before they melted at HID temps.

So you have a certificate saying that your projectors and HIDs meet DOT/SAE specifications? Feel free to post it. "Recommendations" don't fly.

Wrong. Again, HID projectors and halogen projectors are different. Yours are the latter. Now while they do offer less glare than reflectors, still aren't "safe".

55W is only going to make your problem worse. The reason you can't get light output with 35W while others can is because you dont have the right lenses or setup. Get real HID optics if you want nice light.

Those are called auto-leveling headlamps. They are only required in Europe as dictated by ECE regulation 48, but the FMVSS does not require them in North America.

If you have done a retrofit you need to learn two aiming spots need to be done. One outside the vehicle, and once completed, mount it to the vehicle and then aim from there.

Might want to check again. You can adjust them, but you need to remove them. There should be no need for horizontal adjustment on stock lights.

Because they are so crappy and do not conform to the standard Ford set that you have to do it yourself.

I agree

I agree

I agree

Remember, when you point one finger at someone, you've got three pointed right back at you.

Retrofits can be had for as little as $100. All boils down to shopping. All you really need is the projectors (ebay, cough cough) and a HID setup.

He already has those

 

Casedog can we get some cutoff pictures? I like the lights so far.

 

....

double post

 

Wow casedog, over react much?

So much of what you said was just wrong, but I think Raptor covered it pretty well.

I wasn't bashing or hating your lights, just made a few observations and asked a question.

So with your system, you're running a total of 4 HID bulbs (2 lows and 2 highs)?

Post up some photos of the lights on, both facing the truck and facing down the road so we can see what they look like.