Ok had it out again today, got the hitch adjusted and measured everything before hook up and after many adjustments hooked up with all WD components. Before I get into the measurements and weights I must say it rides and tows great, only exception is the ride is just a little bit bouncy compared to the SD 250.
Now for the measurements, I will give you 3 different measurements at each wheel.
A. Factory ride height
B. Full weight of TT on hitch
C. Final measurements with WD hitch all hooked up.

Left front right front
A. 36 1/8 A. 36 1/8
B. 36 7/8 B. 36 7/8
C. 36 3/8 C. 36 3/8

Left Rear Right rear
A. 37 3/8 A. 37 7/8
B. 34 3/8 B. 34 7/8
C. 35 3/8 C. 35 3/8
Now the weights (CAT Scale)
Steer axle #3040 - (+20)
Drive axle #3420 - (-100)
Trailer axle #6480 - (+40)
Gross weight #12,940 - (-40)
Also had friction sway control and trucks sway control both on, no sway at all!
Pics coming soon.

 

Also I still have plenty of room at the bump stops, did not measure but would guess 4-6 inches. Never bottomed out while driving, even over RR Tracks.

 

Here are a few pics after the setup.

 

I thought all the 2011's came with dark surrounds on the tail lights? My FX4 did anyways..?

 

Good work. I'd lime to see one more link taken up on your chains to see if you can level it out a bit more. Ideally, you should have an equal amount of sag on all four corners.

If you can't take another link up (by jacking the TT with tongue to release so
E tension) then angle the hitch head so
E more.

Looking at the pix it appears the camper has a slight nose up attitude. If that's the case, the increased tilt of the head should will help.

Getting more weight on those front wheels should help with the bouncy feel you are getting as well.

Anyhow, that's thoughts and observations. :-)

 

truck looks good but i feel with that size travel trailer i'd have stuck with a 3/4 ton just for size alone. glad it towing it well

xlt, lariats, stx do not, fx4 and a few other packages do.

 

you need some airbags as it's still low in the rear

 

JIMMYB - I just read the part for me to look in glove box for FUSE and RELAY. I sure do have these items in my glove box... There was no INSTRUCTIONS for where these two items plug into. COULD YOU CONFIRM where yours went to... Ill look at SLOT 9 and 21 to see if there is anything in those two slots...

 

The user manual says slot 9 is TRAILER TOW BATTERY CHARGER and slot 21 says TRAILER TOW BATTERY CHARGE... Mine does not have anything in these two slots....

 

I will dbl. check in the morning, one is a 10 amp fuse ( kind of pink) and the other is a bigger black one (relay I think). My truck had the brake control wire kit in a plastic bag with these in it, but I do not have the factory controller. I would check with the dealer before putting them in if you have the factory controller, hate to see you mess anything up.

 

(Note: On older vehicles, the procedure was to have the WD system lower the whole vehicle evenly, front and back (equal squat) but newer recommendations have changed that procedure. The following steps are aligned with the newest recommendations from the various hitch and vehicle manufacturers.)

Hook up the trailer, but do not snap up the w/d bars... Measure the front wheel well again... Subtract the first front height from the second front height... This is the amount of front end "RISE". Now, snap up the w/d bars...

Measure the truck wheel wells again...Basically what you're trying to do is keep the trailer as level as possible when the w/d bars are snapped up and the TT tongue weight is distributed so the front of the TV is close to its unhitched height....

Ford specs for 2011 and newer trucks say the w/d should be adjusted to eliminate about 50% of the front end RISE... IOW, if the front rises 1.5" initially, the RISE should be reduced to around 3/4"...
Ford specs for SUVs say the w/d should be adjusted to return the front bumper to within 1/2" of the unhitched height...
Equal-i-zer specs, beginning in 2010, say the w/d should be adjusted to eliminate at least 50% of the rise...
GMC specifies that 100% of the rise should be eliminated...
Curt Mfg says, "A weight distributing system is properly set up and coupled when the tow vehicle has settled with the front wheel opening at the original uncoupled dimension measured and slightly lower in the rear. ~ This will assure the front wheel load remains unchanged. This results in good handling and the desired load on the rear axle."...
Reese 2009 specs say the final front end height must be less that or equal to the unhitched height...
Eaz-lift, reported to have invented the w/d hitch in 1952, says, "Remeasure front and back of towing vehicle and have both settle the same amount or up to an inch lower in back by adjusting chain on spring bars."
From The Toyota manual..
"If using a weight distribution hitch when towing, return the front axle to the same weight as before the trailer connection.
If front axle weight cannot be measured directly, measure the front fender height above the front axle before connection. Adjust weight distribution hitch torque until front fender is returned to the same height as before connection.
Do not reduce front fender height below original measurement."
All of the above, except the 2011+ Ford trucks, seem to indicate it is okay for the front end to be returned to the unhitched height...

If your w.d bar adjustment is sufficient, the front of the truck should have settled downward approximately to the same distance as it was at originally. Do not worry about the rear as it will take care of itself if the front is correct. If the front is still high, increase tension on the w.d bars... You may have to tilt the hitch head down to gain additional tension from the w/d bars... If the front of the truck is lower (unlikely!!) relax the tension of the w/d bars... Too much weight on the front axle will cause premature wear of components and likely make handling a bit unstable...

Once the weight distribution measurements are where they should be, adjust the hitch head ball height so that the trailer is as close to level as possible... If perfectly level can't be obtained, opt for a bit nose down attitude... This will increase rear end clearance when going up ramps and such and will shift the TT center of gravity forward for a bit more hitch weight...

At the end of this procedure you should have 5 or 6 chain links between the snap up plates and the bars... This distance varies somewhat from hitch manufacturer to hitch manufacturer, but you want enough distance between the bars and snap-up plates so that there is no binding of the w/d bars... The round style w/d bars should be level with the frame when in tension. If using the trunnion style bars, they should slant downward to the rear...

After adjusting ball height, do a final wheel well measurement... If it's the same or close to it, your ready to roll...
This procedure is for a standard weight distributing hitch... It will vary somewhat with some of the anti sway hitches like the Reese Dual Cam and the Equal-i-zer and others...

 

Not sure yet why this 50% rise change, but I can not get any better with the current hitch shank, I may have to get a new one with more adjustment, the head is already at full tilt. With the current shank one way to low, flip it and now to high. It rides pretty nice the way it is right now. If I was to take more rear squat out it would increase the front down pressure and cause excessive wear on front tires and components. May consider a set of timbrens on the back and a hitch shank with more adjustment so I can get the level better, otherwise she tows it like it's not even back there, and honestly better than the 08 F250.