Well I finally started to get the camper pulled up on the level driveway so that I can start to re-adjust the Reese Strait-Line weight distribution hitch with High Performance Dual Cam sway control.

What I wasn't expecting was the neither the emergency trailer brake cable or the chains were long enough to reach the recessed emergency chain loops on the hitch receiver.

Why did Ford do this??? This is a major inconvenience. Now I don't only have to get the weight distribution hitch re-adjusted but now I have to find the time to find trailer chains, cleavas and an emergency brake cable, then install them. We've been getting hammered week after week with thunderstorms. We had a tornado come through, knock out our power for 5 days and since we have a well pump, had to go on the journey to find a generator (most were sold out and only the junk was left).

The trip is in a couple of weeks and I am not even ready to pull the trailer. Wife won't sleep in one of our numerous tents (just for the guys now) so I'm getting into a bind.

Thanks Ford!

Anyone come across the same trouble?

 

It could also be the fault of the trailer manufacturer rather than Fords. Ford didn't make their chains too short or the brake cable.

 

I have a WD hitch plus anti sway and no issues with my 2010 F150 + enclosed trailer.

Seems like a compatability quirk between your hitch and camper unfortunately.

 

I had to extend the chains on a trailer.... But that's not fords fault.

 

I had no problem with my 2010 either. Chains and brake cable were fine.
BTW, in some states it's illegal to use any part of the hitch for the breakaway cable. It should be hooked to a point on the frame other than the hitch....

 

I test drove a 2011 F-150 including hooking up my TT using a Reese Straight Line hitch. My TT safety chains and emergency brake cable reach just fine.

I just re-adjusted and de-winterized my TT Saturday and are leaving for first trip Thursday. You have plenty of time! Relax, take a step back, have a drink.

 

Mike - Just wait till you hook up the BRAKE CONTROLLER haha... Threw me for a loop...

I hooked up my POPUP and headed down the road with it and did all the setting of the MANUAL SLIDE SWITCH and that worked great. I started out actually sliding my trailer brakes to a nice even stop setting in manual mode. Then I went around the block again and just used the BRAKE PEDAL MODE and of course I stopped just fine but I couold not tell if the BRAKE CONTROLLER was working or not...

To make a long story short I tried evey thing in the book to determine if my ELECTRIC BRAKES was working with the FORD BRAKE Controller and finally determined what I thought was a bad BRAKE CONTROLLER only when I used the BRAKE PEDAL.

I could not measure any DC VOLTAGE going to my electrical brakes with my setup scheme in the back yard testing all of this... Finally went to FORD with all my documented tests and about 3-minutes into my SAD STORY they said "HOLD ON PARTNER" your vehicle has to be moving between 5-10MPH before the PUSHING IN THE BRAKE PEDAL method would apply DC VOLTAGE to the electric brakes.

I went back home and rigged up a LONG TEST LEAD from my multimeter from my drivers seat back to the trailler to actual measure this and sure enough it does provide DC VOLTAGE to the electric brakes when stopping above about 8MPH on my test. After I got below 8MPH in my stopping the DC VOLTAGE went away as FORD SAID it would.

Bottom line is if you want to hold your trailer in place when stopped at a stop sign you have to use the MANUAL SLIDE SWITCH to do this. Pushing down on the BRAKE PEDAL does not supply DC VOLTAGE to the electric brakes when you are stopped. I used a PRODIGY before changing trucks and it worked all the time haha... Who would have thunk... haha

 

I've got a P3, and I love that feature! It does a great job of holding the trailer on a grade. Plus I like all of the diagnostic features the P3 has, and the customizable boost features and such. I think the factory brake controller is merely for an occasional tow. But if you want serious performance from your trailer's brakes, get a P3.

 

That makes perfect sense. At a stop, your truck brakes should be sufficient to keep the load stopped, even on a hill. Keep in mind, the parking brake on the truck has to be strong enough to hold the truck and trailer, and that is with just the rear brakes.

My Prodigy would actually back the voltage off a little if you were stopped and kept your foot on the brake for an extended period. This was to save the trailer brakes as constantly applying too much voltage can cause problems with the electromagnet in the brakes.

I think it is exactly the opposite. Those features on the P3 are only necessary becuase it is not integrated with the braking system of the truck. You can't get much better than integrating with the ABS and actual braking force with the ITBC. The ITBC is for serious towers.

 

I'm inclined to agree with you having used the P2 for several years now. I sure hate to give up the nice factory brake install on my dash - perfect spot and looks great - I'll stay with the factory install for awhile but will keep changing back to the PRODIGY a possibility. Its easy to hold my trailer brakes on with my right hand but makes me wonder why FORD did this... One thing i did notice with the 2010 brake controller is when I operate the MANUAL SQUEEZE SWITCH my truck brake lights come on. My P2 didnt do that.