Left door speaker problem - Any thoughts?
#16
08-17-2012, 09:45 AM
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The cable is the length of the door and the harness includes all power equipment in that door. Windows, locks, mirrors, keypad, speaker, ect.
1.)Remove the door panel.
2.)Remove the plastic vapor barrier.
3.)Take a photo of wiring layout or make a sketch.
4.)Disconnect and remove existing wiring.
5.)Run new wiring in pass through hole at the front bottom of door.
6.)Route wiring per your photo or diagram and reconnect all power options.
7.)Reconnect harness to terminal outside of door (it'll be helpful to have a second set of hands for this, as the door needs to be held at just the right angle to make this connection.)
8.)Reinstall vapor barrier (a second set of hands is helpful for this as well.)
9.)Reinstall door panel.
10.)Confirm correct operation of all power options.
It took me about 45-60 minutes. Could've gotten it done a little quicker if I had the extra set of hands I referred to above. Also, pay attention to how the main harness connector works when you remove the existing harness. It'll make it easier to install the new one. I'm not making a guarantee on this fixing the problem; but I know it did for me.
1.)Remove the door panel.
2.)Remove the plastic vapor barrier.
3.)Take a photo of wiring layout or make a sketch.
4.)Disconnect and remove existing wiring.
5.)Run new wiring in pass through hole at the front bottom of door.
6.)Route wiring per your photo or diagram and reconnect all power options.
7.)Reconnect harness to terminal outside of door (it'll be helpful to have a second set of hands for this, as the door needs to be held at just the right angle to make this connection.)
8.)Reinstall vapor barrier (a second set of hands is helpful for this as well.)
9.)Reinstall door panel.
10.)Confirm correct operation of all power options.
It took me about 45-60 minutes. Could've gotten it done a little quicker if I had the extra set of hands I referred to above. Also, pay attention to how the main harness connector works when you remove the existing harness. It'll make it easier to install the new one. I'm not making a guarantee on this fixing the problem; but I know it did for me.
#17
08-17-2012, 10:37 AM
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When I bought my truck, my radio was screwed up badly. The dealership took price of the vehicle for what it would cost to get me a new aftermarket. I bought a Pioneer tuner with AUX/MP3/USB capability @ audio express and had install it. After the install, I noticed one speaker sounded horrible and one was just flat out not working. I went and bought new pioneer speakers and during the swap, I found that the magnet on the passenger side rear had fallen off. 
Ford's base stock audio is pathetic at best.
Ford's base stock audio is pathetic at best.
#18
08-29-2012, 12:00 PM
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The cable is the length of the door and the harness includes all power equipment in that door. Windows, locks, mirrors, keypad, speaker, ect.
1.)Remove the door panel.
2.)Remove the plastic vapor barrier.
3.)Take a photo of wiring layout or make a sketch.
4.)Disconnect and remove existing wiring.
5.)Run new wiring in pass through hole at the front bottom of door.
6.)Route wiring per your photo or diagram and reconnect all power options.
7.)Reconnect harness to terminal outside of door (it'll be helpful to have a second set of hands for this, as the door needs to be held at just the right angle to make this connection.)
8.)Reinstall vapor barrier (a second set of hands is helpful for this as well.)
9.)Reinstall door panel.
10.)Confirm correct operation of all power options.
It took me about 45-60 minutes. Could've gotten it done a little quicker if I had the extra set of hands I referred to above. Also, pay attention to how the main harness connector works when you remove the existing harness. It'll make it easier to install the new one. I'm not making a guarantee on this fixing the problem; but I know it did for me.
1.)Remove the door panel.
2.)Remove the plastic vapor barrier.
3.)Take a photo of wiring layout or make a sketch.
4.)Disconnect and remove existing wiring.
5.)Run new wiring in pass through hole at the front bottom of door.
6.)Route wiring per your photo or diagram and reconnect all power options.
7.)Reconnect harness to terminal outside of door (it'll be helpful to have a second set of hands for this, as the door needs to be held at just the right angle to make this connection.)
8.)Reinstall vapor barrier (a second set of hands is helpful for this as well.)
9.)Reinstall door panel.
10.)Confirm correct operation of all power options.
It took me about 45-60 minutes. Could've gotten it done a little quicker if I had the extra set of hands I referred to above. Also, pay attention to how the main harness connector works when you remove the existing harness. It'll make it easier to install the new one. I'm not making a guarantee on this fixing the problem; but I know it did for me.
Looks like it was a success!!
#19
08-30-2012, 10:21 AM
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#20
11-06-2012, 07:47 AM
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I'm having the same problems with the left front door speaker on my 2010 Lariat. It sometimes crackels and sometimes cuts out all together. If I turn the volume up the sound comes back. Does anyone know if there is a TSB on it yet? With all the complaints it looks like they should have one by now. Also, is it the radio or the wiring? If it is the wiring I don't see how turning up the volume will bring the sound back. It sounds to me like it is an internal problem with the radio itself.
#21
11-07-2012, 08:22 PM
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It seems to me that the wire bundle that goes into the door for the speaker and all power options is poorly put together. Somewhere between the main connector for the harness and the speaker itself there is a problem with a connection not fully making up when it should. At lower volumes the signal may not be quite enough to force it's way completely through the bad connection (causing crackle) or may not go through the bad connection at all (cutting out.) When you turn up the volume and increase the strength of the signal, it makes up the connection and locks in the current again. IMO, I think it's a problem with the harness not the radio. I have had no issues since I replaced the wire harness. As far as a TSB, I have not seen one; but do believe myself and others have had success by replacing the harness.
#22
01-22-2013, 08:37 AM
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benchwarmer4203, It appears that you are exactly right. I replaced my driver's door wiring harness about a week ago and the speaker has not cut out since. It may be a little premature in saying that the problem has been resolved but I don't think so. Previously I had replaced the radio with a navigation system and seperate amp. and was hopeful that would solve the problem but it didn't. The only other thing I could have done would be to replace the speaker but I was pretty sure that wasn't the problem. After seeing where the harness was made it didn't surprise me that it had quality issues. Need I say more! For anyone who is thinking about replacing the driver's door wiring harness in a Lariat the part number is 9L3Z14631DA
Last edited by rheagrimm; 01-23-2013 at 11:56 AM.
#24
01-23-2013, 10:55 AM
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#25
01-23-2013, 04:09 PM
I'm having the same problems with the left front door speaker on my 2010 Lariat. It sometimes crackels and sometimes cuts out all together. If I turn the volume up the sound comes back. Does anyone know if there is a TSB on it yet? With all the complaints it looks like they should have one by now. Also, is it the radio or the wiring? If it is the wiring I don't see how turning up the volume will bring the sound back. It sounds to me like it is an internal problem with the radio itself.
#26
01-23-2013, 05:03 PM
2012 here, xlt base stereo. Same thing as mentioned above, except mine is passenger king cab door. At low volume the sound is very distorted, some times cutting out but at higher volume the issue goes away. I always thought it was a speaker issue. Yall have me wondering now. Has been doing this since 1800 miles, I have 6400 on the clock now
#27
01-23-2013, 06:08 PM
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Thats what i was thinking too. My 2011 "passenger" speaker does it sometimes. Not all the time. I posted over on the Stereo section and never got a reply. But mine will do it at low volumes and when i turn it up, it will start playing again. I may mention it the next time i go in.
#28
01-31-2013, 10:07 AM
Just called my service guy on this and made an appointment for Tuesday. I explained my findings here on the issue and he said he has seen the connector itself become "stretched" and not make a good enough contact and maybe in different humidities causing the issue too. They are going to investigate on Tuesday and see what they need to order or maybe fix while there. Fingers crossed and will update.
#29
02-03-2013, 06:30 AM
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#30
02-05-2013, 05:10 PM
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