New EB vs 6.2 Question
#76
ISSUE:
Some 2011 F-150 vehicles equipped with a 5.0L engine and air conditioning (A/C) compressor stretchy belt configuration built on or before 2/14/2011 may exhibit a light lower end engine knock most noticeable when engine temperature is warm and the vehicle is at idle.
ACTION:
Refer to the Service Procedure to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Remove the front end accessory drive (FEAD) and A/C compressor stretchy belt. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-05 Removal and Installation Air Conditioning (A/C) compressor belt - 3.5L GTDI, 3.7L, 5.0L. Does the knocking noise remain?
Yes, the knocking noise remains after removing the A/C stretchy belt. Do not continue with this article. Refer to WSM, Section 303-00 for further diagnosis
No, the noise is no longer present. Obtain the Drive Belt Kit proceed to Step 2.
Remove the FEAD belt tensioner and bolt from the engine front cover. Refer to WSM, Section 303-05 - Exploded view.
Remove and discard existing A/C compressor to condenser discharge line and install new A/C compressor to condenser discharge line supplied in the Drive Belt Kit. Refer to WSM, Section 412-01.
Using a 8 X 1.25mm tap, clean the mounting locations noted on the engine front cover and use compressed shop air to clean any remaining debris. (Figure 1)
Figure 1 - Article 11-7-1
Install A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley and A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley bolt supplied in the drive belt kit onto the engine front cover top mounting location. Tighten to 25 N-m (18 lb-ft).
Install A/C drive compressor belt tensioner supplied in the drive belt kit onto the engine front cover lower mounting location. Tighten to 25 N-m 18 lb-ft).
Install new A/C compressor belt supplied in the drive belt kit. Refer to WSM, Section 303-05 R and A/C compressor belt - 3.5L GTDI, 3.7L, 5.0L referring to the 5.0L (4V) late build vehicles procedure for proper belt routing. (Figure 2)
Figure 2 - Article 11-7-1
Reinstall the FEAD belt tensioner and bolt onto the engine front cover. Tighten to 25 N-m(18 lb-ft). Refer to WSM, Section 303-05 FEAD - Exploded view 5.0L (4V) late build vehicles.
Reinstall the FEAD belt. Refer to WSM, Section 303-05 FEAD - Exploded view 5.0L (4V) late build vehicles.
Install Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) and identify the vehicle. Answer the IDS screen prompts according to the current vehicle A/C belt configuration.
Reprogram the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) using IDS release 72.03 or later. This new calibration is not included in the VCM 2011.3 DVD. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com.
Perform misfire monitor neutral profile correction. Select IDS toolbox icon, Powertrain, Service Functions, then Misfire Monitor Neutral Profile Correction.
NOTE: PLEASE ADVISE THE CUSTOMER THAT THIS VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH AN ADAPTIVE TRANSMISSION SHIFT STRATEGY WHICH ALLOWS THE VEHICLE'S COMPUTER TO LEARN THE TRANSMISSION'S UNIQUE PARAMETERS AND IMPROVE SHIFT QUALITY. WHEN THE ADAPTIVE STRATEGY IS RESET, THE COMPUTER WILL BEGIN A RE-LEARNING PROCESS. THIS RE-LEARNING PROCESS MAY RESULT IN FIRMER THAN NORMAL UPSHIFTS AND DOWNSHIFTS FOR SEVERAL DAYS
Some 2011 F-150 vehicles equipped with a 5.0L engine and air conditioning (A/C) compressor stretchy belt configuration built on or before 2/14/2011 may exhibit a light lower end engine knock most noticeable when engine temperature is warm and the vehicle is at idle.
ACTION:
Refer to the Service Procedure to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Remove the front end accessory drive (FEAD) and A/C compressor stretchy belt. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-05 Removal and Installation Air Conditioning (A/C) compressor belt - 3.5L GTDI, 3.7L, 5.0L. Does the knocking noise remain?
Yes, the knocking noise remains after removing the A/C stretchy belt. Do not continue with this article. Refer to WSM, Section 303-00 for further diagnosis
No, the noise is no longer present. Obtain the Drive Belt Kit proceed to Step 2.
Remove the FEAD belt tensioner and bolt from the engine front cover. Refer to WSM, Section 303-05 - Exploded view.
Remove and discard existing A/C compressor to condenser discharge line and install new A/C compressor to condenser discharge line supplied in the Drive Belt Kit. Refer to WSM, Section 412-01.
Using a 8 X 1.25mm tap, clean the mounting locations noted on the engine front cover and use compressed shop air to clean any remaining debris. (Figure 1)
Figure 1 - Article 11-7-1
Install A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley and A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley bolt supplied in the drive belt kit onto the engine front cover top mounting location. Tighten to 25 N-m (18 lb-ft).
Install A/C drive compressor belt tensioner supplied in the drive belt kit onto the engine front cover lower mounting location. Tighten to 25 N-m 18 lb-ft).
Install new A/C compressor belt supplied in the drive belt kit. Refer to WSM, Section 303-05 R and A/C compressor belt - 3.5L GTDI, 3.7L, 5.0L referring to the 5.0L (4V) late build vehicles procedure for proper belt routing. (Figure 2)
Figure 2 - Article 11-7-1
Reinstall the FEAD belt tensioner and bolt onto the engine front cover. Tighten to 25 N-m(18 lb-ft). Refer to WSM, Section 303-05 FEAD - Exploded view 5.0L (4V) late build vehicles.
Reinstall the FEAD belt. Refer to WSM, Section 303-05 FEAD - Exploded view 5.0L (4V) late build vehicles.
Install Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) and identify the vehicle. Answer the IDS screen prompts according to the current vehicle A/C belt configuration.
Reprogram the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) using IDS release 72.03 or later. This new calibration is not included in the VCM 2011.3 DVD. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com.
Perform misfire monitor neutral profile correction. Select IDS toolbox icon, Powertrain, Service Functions, then Misfire Monitor Neutral Profile Correction.
NOTE: PLEASE ADVISE THE CUSTOMER THAT THIS VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH AN ADAPTIVE TRANSMISSION SHIFT STRATEGY WHICH ALLOWS THE VEHICLE'S COMPUTER TO LEARN THE TRANSMISSION'S UNIQUE PARAMETERS AND IMPROVE SHIFT QUALITY. WHEN THE ADAPTIVE STRATEGY IS RESET, THE COMPUTER WILL BEGIN A RE-LEARNING PROCESS. THIS RE-LEARNING PROCESS MAY RESULT IN FIRMER THAN NORMAL UPSHIFTS AND DOWNSHIFTS FOR SEVERAL DAYS
#78
2004triton,
Can't you see the writing in the wall? People come here to gripe and post what they WOULD do IF they were buying, but most are just offering their justifications of why they like what they like... Even though their checkbooks are empty. Maybe it's Eco envy, or 6.2 envy?
Can't you see the writing in the wall? People come here to gripe and post what they WOULD do IF they were buying, but most are just offering their justifications of why they like what they like... Even though their checkbooks are empty. Maybe it's Eco envy, or 6.2 envy?
#79
I've done the diesel thing (08 F-250 6.4L) and will NEVER go back. I will buy a smaller travel trailer to avoid another modern day (DPF and beyond) diesel.
Last edited by hydro1; 08-02-2011 at 03:27 PM.
#80
Strange post, are we at www.powerstroke.org? what does a F-250 diesel have to do with 1/2 ton gassers? Either way... keep us posted on your regens and the MPG you get during those & not being able to shut the truck down until one is finished or risk pluggin the DPF, the cost of your fuel filters every 10,000 miles, your DEF fill-ups and issues with that system, The cost of filling the fuel tank with more expensive fuel, waiting for those lovely glow plugs to warm up before you can start the engine (it's actually gotten a lot faster since the 6.4L), and lets not forget the 15 quart oil changes
I've done the diesel thing (08 F-250 6.4L) and will NEVER go back. I will buy a smaller travel trailer to avoid another modern day (DPF and beyond) diesel.
I've done the diesel thing (08 F-250 6.4L) and will NEVER go back. I will buy a smaller travel trailer to avoid another modern day (DPF and beyond) diesel.
Regen drops MPG by 1mpg when it hits a cycle. A fuel filter is 90 bucks, ya that's expensive but if I couldn't afford it I wouldn't have bought it. DEF is 11$ for 5 gallons and last around 3500 miles while towing and longer than that just driving so that's not to bad. I have yet to have to wait on a glow plug, its summer and 100+ every day, however I have remote start and start the truck from the house so there is no waiting. Its 13 quarts of oil btw and again if I couldn't afford the oil I wouldn't have bought the truck. I will however report that I love the additional room inside the huge cab of the supercrew f-250, the power is phenomenal and blows away any f-150 engine, and it sounds amazing. When the warranty expires in a few years I will be doing a straight exhaust and EGR and urea delete, so I won't have to mess with that anymore.
BTW anyone else notice how defensive most of these egoboost guys are? I make one post about how I am not jealous of the engine and I get bashed for buying a truck that I wanted and that in my opinion is superior. Even though on several occasions I have said that I think the eco is a great motor, it just wasn't right for me.
Last edited by birddog_61; 08-02-2011 at 03:54 PM.
#83
Re-read, o diesel wan kanobi. The jist of my post was that there are some on here spouting on the EcoBoost OR the 6.2L don't even own one, but they are directing people like they are writing the check. The MAYBE reference for the envy was not stating people WERE envious, but matter of a question. That funny squiggle at the end, one of theses ? Is a question mark. Now, I'll get back up from bowing down to you and you almighty diesel.
Last edited by Smokewagun; 08-02-2011 at 05:05 PM.
#85
I am not really anti Eco boost, I just can't do the v6 thing. Had they just done like a 4.5 4.8 or 5.0 ecoboost v8 i would probably be more inclined to try one provided it was available with the 36 gal tank. Until then i am stick'n with the 6.2Ls. I have one in my rapptor and swapping it for another 6.2 in a platinum this week.
#86
#87
And 6-8 lbs of boost is hardly "compressing and forcing". Keep in mind Ford's 5.4L could handle what, 550 rwhp on stock internals? and some Mitsus are pushing 600hp @ 35 lbs of boost before breaking.
#88
Re-read, o diesel wan kanobi. The jist of my post was that there are some on here spouting on the EcoBoost OR the 6.2L don't even own one, but they are directing people like they are writing the check. The MAYBE reference for the envy was not stating people WERE envious, but matter of a question. That funny squiggle at the end, one of theses ? Is a question mark. Now, I'll get back up from bowing down to you and you almighty diesel.
Last edited by birddog_61; 08-03-2011 at 12:20 AM.
#89
actually I think my raptor has 4.10s in it. The Platinum has the 3.73s. Mileage is by know means the Raptors strong suit. Its avg is 12 I have got it up 14 babying it, I have got as low as 8 pulling a 5000 pound trailer up into the mountains. Keep in mind the Raptor has no air spoilers, is extra wide body, extra tall, with 10 ply 35" offroad tires. That platinum 6.2 should get what they claim, about 2mpgs better then the Raptor 6.2. I drive pretty moderate, to mild lead foot. I do cruise around 80-85 on the interstates when possible. I do nail it once in a while to pass or get up to speed on on ramps and such. Nothing crazy. My 6.0 Chevy max had less power and got about the same mileage, maybe slighty better at 13.?? vs 12.?? same mileage pulling a trailer yet the Raptor 6.2 pulls the trailer much better, with more power. The difference in the 6.2 ford and the 6.0 Chevy is found mostly when trying to pass with trailer.