Potential deal
#32
This is what I was sent....
MSRP $43,930
XLT Rebate-$1000
Retail cash-$2000
Trade Assist-$1000
Military-$500
FMCC Cash-$1500
Total after all those Rebates is $37930
Trade $20,430
Total After trade is $17500
Then add my Pay off ( $22000) and the total is $39,500
I told him that was too high so he said $38000 is as low as he can go
MSRP $43,930
XLT Rebate-$1000
Retail cash-$2000
Trade Assist-$1000
Military-$500
FMCC Cash-$1500
Total after all those Rebates is $37930
Trade $20,430
Total After trade is $17500
Then add my Pay off ( $22000) and the total is $39,500
I told him that was too high so he said $38000 is as low as he can go
#34
If he can do 38 and you really want to man go for it. You know whats best for your financial situation. Just dont dig a hole you cant get out of and end up regret getting the truck. You have car fever right now but if you have a good income(say 60k a year) and can pay it off in two years go for it.
#35
#36
No offense, but man you should listen.....
When buying a car you should only focus on the cost of the new vehicle before you discuss trade. A lot of us on here bought our trucks well. My rule of thumb is Invoice (or slightly under I was like 250 under) then deduct any and all applicable incentives. And given the time of year that should put you around 8-10k off MSRP. Once you reach the truck number then discuss trade. I know you are getting hosed on your trade, but that is your fault not theirs. You are at 6 off then you have to give back another 1500 to pay off the car. So that puts you at around 5,390 off MSRP for your OTD the number. I bought my truck 6 weeks in 2012 and was just under $9k off sticker before trade...... See below:
Sticker - 41,955
Invoice - 38,576
Got the dealer down to - 38,319
Deduct Incentives (5,250) - 33,069
Trade Equity - (2,262) - 30,807
Add TTL/Fees - 1,193
OTD at $32,000.
Without trade I got $8,886 off the truck. I purchased the truck in February of 2012. Dealer traded for it, it was about 90 miles away. Details in sig. Same truck today MSRP is around 42,700. A pricey XLT IMO. I was able to get the dealer $257 under invoice without any type of Ford plan i.e. A,D,X,Y or Z.
I am done with this thread. If you are comfortable then do what you want, just know you are losing money. With incentives now I am certain I could rebuy my truck for $1500 less.
When looking at a budget have you looked at the fact your insurance will most likely go up and enjoy buying fuel. I am not sure what you are trading, but most cars get 25-35 mpg. I am assuming you are not driving a high performance car...
When buying a car you should only focus on the cost of the new vehicle before you discuss trade. A lot of us on here bought our trucks well. My rule of thumb is Invoice (or slightly under I was like 250 under) then deduct any and all applicable incentives. And given the time of year that should put you around 8-10k off MSRP. Once you reach the truck number then discuss trade. I know you are getting hosed on your trade, but that is your fault not theirs. You are at 6 off then you have to give back another 1500 to pay off the car. So that puts you at around 5,390 off MSRP for your OTD the number. I bought my truck 6 weeks in 2012 and was just under $9k off sticker before trade...... See below:
Sticker - 41,955
Invoice - 38,576
Got the dealer down to - 38,319
Deduct Incentives (5,250) - 33,069
Trade Equity - (2,262) - 30,807
Add TTL/Fees - 1,193
OTD at $32,000.
Without trade I got $8,886 off the truck. I purchased the truck in February of 2012. Dealer traded for it, it was about 90 miles away. Details in sig. Same truck today MSRP is around 42,700. A pricey XLT IMO. I was able to get the dealer $257 under invoice without any type of Ford plan i.e. A,D,X,Y or Z.
I am done with this thread. If you are comfortable then do what you want, just know you are losing money. With incentives now I am certain I could rebuy my truck for $1500 less.
When looking at a budget have you looked at the fact your insurance will most likely go up and enjoy buying fuel. I am not sure what you are trading, but most cars get 25-35 mpg. I am assuming you are not driving a high performance car...
Last edited by 99and04f150; 08-15-2012 at 07:08 AM.
#37
#38
This just doesn't sound like the right time for you to be trading, and here's why I say that.
The MSRP is $43,930. The price you were given is $38K. At least, that's what I assumed you meant when you said "total price". Subtracting the latter from the former, you get a difference of $5930. Now, I'm not exactly sure what the current rebates are from FoMoCo on this truck, but I'll bet they are really close to that $5930 figure. That means they're not discounting anything really. It looks like they're just giving you the rebate and nothing else. Doesn't sound like a smokin' deal to me.
Another thing. On the first deal, you were looking at about $3500 in negative equity on the trade, and to be honest, you've made me a little dizzy with all these figures thrown around (that IS the intent of the dealer, you know?). I'm thinking you're about $2500 in the negative on the second deal? Still not a good thing, buddy.
If your current car was giving you trouble or you figured it was about to be due for some serious repairs, etc, I MIGHT consider it if the price was lower on the new truck, and I was only going to carry $1000 of negative equity over onto the new note. However, as it is? No way. I just couldn't do it.
I'm not going to tell you what you can or can't afford. I have no idea. But what I do know is that this just isn't a good financial move, and I'd either back away from the trigger or get one of these guys to REALLY sweeten the deal.
The MSRP is $43,930. The price you were given is $38K. At least, that's what I assumed you meant when you said "total price". Subtracting the latter from the former, you get a difference of $5930. Now, I'm not exactly sure what the current rebates are from FoMoCo on this truck, but I'll bet they are really close to that $5930 figure. That means they're not discounting anything really. It looks like they're just giving you the rebate and nothing else. Doesn't sound like a smokin' deal to me.
Another thing. On the first deal, you were looking at about $3500 in negative equity on the trade, and to be honest, you've made me a little dizzy with all these figures thrown around (that IS the intent of the dealer, you know?). I'm thinking you're about $2500 in the negative on the second deal? Still not a good thing, buddy.
If your current car was giving you trouble or you figured it was about to be due for some serious repairs, etc, I MIGHT consider it if the price was lower on the new truck, and I was only going to carry $1000 of negative equity over onto the new note. However, as it is? No way. I just couldn't do it.
I'm not going to tell you what you can or can't afford. I have no idea. But what I do know is that this just isn't a good financial move, and I'd either back away from the trigger or get one of these guys to REALLY sweeten the deal.
#39
#40
#41
Probably more logical to site on the sidelines for the time being... but, I certainly understand the 2-year itch. We've all been there... patience and diligence will get you in to your next truck -- right now might just not be the best time.
It's reassuring to hear some common sense and logic interjected into decisions like this... pure emotion is tough to overcome (been there, done that).
Good choice, IMO. Now... vote Republican and vacate congress and you'll complete the trifecta. LOL!
It's reassuring to hear some common sense and logic interjected into decisions like this... pure emotion is tough to overcome (been there, done that).
Good choice, IMO. Now... vote Republican and vacate congress and you'll complete the trifecta. LOL!
#42
Romney/Ryan 2012.....
#45
So I told him I was walking. He tried to explain that with the rebates I won't be carrying any negative equity and I was still 6k under MSRP. I just told him I am going to hold off a year or so. But he didn't go any lower than 38k
Last edited by daellis99; 08-15-2012 at 11:27 AM. Reason: wording