Ok, so I looked aroundand cannot finda thread that discusses the lift kit vs Level kit options. Therefore I am starting one. I want to raise my truck, but I do.Not know if I should just go level kit or go lift kit. if I go lift kit it will be a 4". can anyone tell me the benefit of lift kits over level kits or visa versa? pictures and options would be nice as well. I have a 2012 crew cab XLT with the 5.0 and I believe I have the 3.55 gears. I already have aftermarket wheels that are 17 x 8. I am not worried about power lose either as I run an air intake kit from airaid and the 91 oct. performance tune from 5 tuning. Any help would be great.

 

What size tire do you want to run?
Do you want it to look stuffed or for the tires to have some room?
What's the budget?
What's the backspace/offset of the wheels?
Are you 4x4 or 4x2?
What's the truck used for (occasional offroad, street queen, etc.)?

Leveling will be a lot cheaper than a full lift, but can limit the tire size a lot more depending on the wheel specs also. Leveling will add increased wear to front end components (ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.) but nothing severe as long as you stay under 2.5".

Lifting will allow more room for the tire, keeps the stock angles, but cost a lot more.

But with out the other information I can't really help too much.

 

Thabks, my truck is a 4 x 4 and basically I drive the truck everyday to work and stuff. However, I also go out to my parents farm and pull trailers hauling hay, cattle, and horses. I also venture out into the woods during deer season. As for tire size I will probably go for 35 and my rims have just a little less back spacing than the factory rims I think it is like 28 mm.

 

I just got 6" lift and 37" tires put on my 2011 XLT. Total package (lift,rims,tires, labor etc) cost me $6200.

Leveling kits are a couple hundred.

I guess it just depends how deep your pockets are.

 

You mention that you are not afraid of power loss, but with 3.55 gears, if you go with a heavy tire, your power loss will be greatly noticed, even with the tuner. might want to consider a jump to 4.10's, or higher, depending on your intended uses, and your thoughts on fuel economy. Food for thought.

I personally don't see the point of a 4" lift. If you are going to spend the big money on a lift kit, it make more sense to go 6"minimum. You can get 2+ inches out of a level for a few hundred bucks, and the difference between 2+ and 4`is not worth the HUGE jump in price. 6`however is a drastically different look over the level kits.

One other point of interest, a level kit will still allow you to fit the truck in a standard 7`garage door. But barely. A 4 inch lift will not allow you to fit in any such spaces. If you have a 8`door, then this is a moot point.

 

Thanks for the input. I actually have a five panel garage door that is 108 inches ground to the top which is 9 foot opening. The cost is important but not a really big deal. I like the idea of a 6 inch lift but I just wonder if that would be to much. My question on lift vs level also goes to things like the wear on the frontend and stability and drivability issues. I thought about changing gears but then you get into a very large dollar investment, but I might actually have 3.73 gears I am just not sure.

 

There are a lot of reasons to go with a 4-inch lift. Also, I have had a number of 4-inch systems; on my recent gen trucks have had no issues fitting in standard sized (7 ft.) garage doors and car washes. My latest lifted Platinum measured right at 82.5 inches tall without the topper. I took my trucks through the automated car washes weekly. I have a 12 ft. high garage door so had no issue fitting whatever I wanted...lol...I just didn't have the need or desire to go 6 inches when 4-inches met all my needs.

A 4-inch system still allows for larger tires up to 35 inches. If you want to go with 37 inch tires, then yes, you'll need the 6-inch.

For me, it is not about whether I have another 2 inches or not, rather I wanted the taller stance and clearance to run 35s as I like the look and I actually go off road. In my opinion, a properly done 4-inch system actually looks more cohesive than some 6-inch setups I have seen. And some 4-inch systems (like Rancho) are actually closer to 5-inches.

Finally, having the truck sit just a tad lower than the 6-inch systems retains some ease of use with the 4-inch systems (ingress/egress, bed access) and of course improved handling versus the 6-inch systems (but both really change the driving dynamics over stock or leveled suspensions). This is important if you have very young or older family members and/or use your truck for business too. Of course, you can go with the power side steps and that greatly helps with both systems.

There is no longer the huge jump in price between the systems as you can get similar pricing (used to always cost more to get the 4-inch systems) but I think candianelbow's point is that lift per inch is still less with the 6-inch systems. And he is correct that the more cost effective way is to go with the leveling system especially if you're not looking to fit 35s and/or really drive mostly on the street.

Here are my examples for you to consider -

2-inch Daystar leveling system with 33 inch Nittos:



4-inch Fabtech system with 34.5 inch tall Nittos:



4-inch Rancho system with 35 inch BFGs:

 

Anything thing to consider, with your wheels being close to the factory offset, most lift kits will make you have to buy a new set of wheels. Most require right around 4.5" of backspacing.

 

Perhaps I simply have a crappy "Craftsman" garage door opener, but it is set to open as wide as it can. I have just under 1.5 inches of space between the door edge and the roof of my truck, as is illustrated in the pic..... that is a common 2x4 used for illustration purposes.



i am using Bilstein 5100's at max. If I put a 4" system under my truck, I would not fit in my door, at least not using my current garage door opener.

 

Thanks for the info. and I really am not concerned with the garage door issues as mine is a 9 foot opening with the door open. I really love the way that Rancho lifted truck looks that may be the way I go. Did the rancho kit sit higher than the fabtech kit, and which one did you like better and why.

keep the picture and info coming.

 

also who makes that light bar it is tight.

 

Wow...that is tight. But I agree that it looks like your door could be adjusted as it looks like the door still has some room to move up a bit? But the way it is now, there is no way to get a fully lifted truck in there although you are already running 34.6 inch tall tires so going another 1.5 inches would work if you could adjust the door.

 

Yes, the Rancho was closer to 5 inches and the Fabtech was closer to 4 inches of lift.

I liked the Rancho better; the Fabtech supplied alignment cams have a tendency to wear. The Rancho system uses a one piece welded subframe versus separate front/rear crossmembers that Fabtech (and a lot of other systems) use so the Rancho system is stouter.

Finally, Rancho increases the front track width which allows you to run factory wheels if desired.


It is a Smittybilt which is made by N-fab (you can see my white XLT on their website showing the light bar): http://www.n-fab.com/products/sfID1/.../productID/297

 

I really like the stance on that truck thanks for the input. I also love that light bar. Has anyone done a rough country or any other brands that can say how they performed.

Desert Dawg you had said that there were many benefits of lifts over levels, what would some of them be? This will be my first lift or level of any kind and I have no idea what the benefit of one over the other would be.

 

I really like the stance on that truck thanks for the input. I also love that light bar. Has anyone done a rough country or any other brands that can say how they performed.

Desert Dawg you had said that there were many benefits of lifts over levels, what would some of them be? This will be my first lift or level of any kind and I have no idea what the benefit of one over the other would be.