2010 lariat, 43k, just put new front pads and rotors on it. Used Wearever Gold ceramic pads #GNAD1414 and Wearever rotors #YH145698. Pedal is very soft, can be pumped up and get hard(that's what she said) but will go to the floor in a second or two. Never cracked open a line nor am I missing any fluid.

As I said in the title, this isn't my first rodeo, but it is the first time I don't know how to fix it. Everything came apart and went back together very smooth. I didn't expect any problems. Pistons pressed back in easily, they appear to be sitting in the bore straight and level, boots aren't torn, slider pins move easily, I took a wire wheel to the pad holder tabs and used a dab of high temp grease there. Rotors were flush on the hub and wheels torqued.


Took it back apart, didn't notice anything weird. Swapped the inside and outside pads...why i dont know, but there is no difference. Outside edge of rotor is the only surface making contact as seen in the picture. On the inside surface of the rotor its the exact opposite, inner edge is making contact. This is the right front wheel. The left front is the same but not nearly as bad. I didn't even notice it at first but I can still see the machining marks closest to the hub on that wheel as well.

Don't have to be on the brakes for it to make contact. Gets real hot real quick. Drove it for maybe 8 miles. Don't want to ruin new parts.

So, whats the issue here?

 

sounds like it either needs to be bled, or you have a weak master cylinder


ETA Brand new brakes need to be bedded in. Go out somewhere safe with open road, and do two or three hard stops. Needs to take the rust coating off the new rotors, and get the new pads hot

 

2wd did you get the hubs torqued down properly?
4x4 did you get the rotor seated correctly on the face of the hub?

 

I did bed them in and this is the result. Its not making full contact with the rotor surface.

 

4wd and yes. Took it back apart twice. Thats what I was thinking at first, made certain that it was.

 

maybe you have a defective rotor? or defective pads? Maybe it wasn't seated properly on the lathe when they machined the surface on it.

You could try swapping, and do old pads on new rotors, or visa-versa and see what happens....


Did it sound funny under braking? I almost say drive it again and see if more of the pad grabs on.

 

Does it have those springs that pull the pads away from the rotors when the brakes are not being utilized? Sounds like something is keeping the pads too far from the rotors.

 

no springs, no odd sounds. Old pads were BAD. Ran them down to almost nothing, not really an option.

 

Master cylinder went when you compressed the calipers back out. Happened to me once.

 

A friend of mine suggested that also, but man....on a 2010? I could see an older vehicle but really?

How does that explain the uneven pressure on the mating surface?

 

I had this similar problem on my front driver side after a recent brake job. I just had my stock rotors resurfaced. And the pad was only contacting a little less than half the rotor (top half). Over a few weeks it has slowly covered a bit more, but still not 100%. The shop that did mine told me to bring it back after a putting some miles on it to see if there was any change. If yours ends of being the master cylinder, please fill me in and I'll have them take a look. If they find something else, I'll report here.

 

Not sure if you are having the same problem or not.....After saying that, I changed my pads on my 2013 to Thermoquiets front and rear, had the same problem. After carefully looking at the new and old pads, there IS a difference between them (inner vs outer). There is a difference with the pad that goes against the pistons and the outer one. After looking at part numbers the 2010 takes the same pads. Something to check out, I had the same wear pattern before I re-checked the pads themselves.

 

Wow, so you think I might just have pads reversed? Think I could flip them now and keep going? I've put probably 1000 miles on them. This would be huge.

 

Are they different than the 2004-2008 trucks? They had one pad with a cluster of spring catches that fit into the piston. The other pad had catches that held it to the caliper frame. It was pretty much impossible to get them backwards.

EDIT: How did you burn up a set of pads in 43k? Do you do almost all of your driving in-town?

 

Very possible.....I made the same error myself


Yes, they are different from the 04-08 trucks...those were the same pad (both sides of the rotor) not so for the newer MY's.