Please Help with Ford Corporate!
#31
04-03-2015, 06:59 PM
#32
04-03-2015, 07:28 PM
#33
04-04-2015, 07:20 PM
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For what it is worth, my wife bought a "Pearl White" 2007 Mazda CX9. After owning it for around six months, the paint all over the front of the vehicle was stone-chipped. The local dealership (not even the one where we bought it) arranged for the Mazda zone manager to look it over. She had the body shop mgr. verify the paint thickness was to factory spec, offered to do a repaint of the entire front end. Since the factory paint was chipping like mad, we felt we had little to lose. While they had the vehicle, we worried about the color match and whether the repaint would chip easier. But when we got the car back, the paint matched perfectly and in the four more years we owned that vehicle there were less than five new stone chips anywhere on the front end. So, a (partial) repaint doesn't necessarily have to be lesser quality. On the other hand, if I were asked to agree to a full repaint of a brand new vehicle with only 800 miles on it, no way. Good luck to the OP.
#34
04-04-2015, 08:05 PM
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I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but no re-spray paint job is ever as good as a properly executed factory paint job - which yours obviously was not. Period, end of report. And I can say that since I used to supervise a painting operation for a Fortune 500 company and know more than a little bit about painting. And the big difference is not baking, it's process control over the whole series of operations. There are more variables to control in painting a car or truck body than most people would ever believe. And absolutely no dealer or collision shop has the time, money or facilities to duplicate a factory paint job - period.
The other big difference will be what gets painted and how. Your truck was originally painted as what's called "a body in white." That means it was a recently welded together bare steel (and aluminum) body with nothing else on it.
The painting process started with an Electrodeposition Primer. (The "river of paint" you've no doubt seen) And this primer - which cannot be duplicated out in the field - followed a multiple step cleaning and Phosphating process to improve adhesion. BTW, once you sand through this primer in the field, your corrosion resistance goes to hell in a hand basket.
Next, the body goes through a basecoat / clearcoat painting process where the layers are precisely applied by automated equipment to give you even coating thickness and a prefect surface that needs no buffing (which reduces thickness). After all of this, they (finally) start assembling the truck.
Any body shop is going to slightly disassemble your truck, DA sand it (sometimes going through the primer), mask off the parts they didn't disassemble, then shoot it by hand. The quality of the paint is entirely dependent on the painter. With any luck, it might look half way decent. As for corrosion resistance, sorry, but it will suck. But - and this is important - you will always be able to tell the vehicle has been painted. You can guess what this does for resale value.
I had a Ford F-150 with a similar "bad paint job" a number of years ago. I was able to prove beyond a doubt - due to the testing means I had access to - that my truck's finish did not meet certain critical factory specifications. Ford eventually offered to repaint it and I refused for the above mentioned reasons. I held out until they (after a long battle) made it possible for me to get a new truck.
Good luck in your battle. (And it will be a battle.) Let this be a lesson to never buy anything without a proper full inspection. Hope that helps.
The other big difference will be what gets painted and how. Your truck was originally painted as what's called "a body in white." That means it was a recently welded together bare steel (and aluminum) body with nothing else on it.
The painting process started with an Electrodeposition Primer. (The "river of paint" you've no doubt seen) And this primer - which cannot be duplicated out in the field - followed a multiple step cleaning and Phosphating process to improve adhesion. BTW, once you sand through this primer in the field, your corrosion resistance goes to hell in a hand basket.
Next, the body goes through a basecoat / clearcoat painting process where the layers are precisely applied by automated equipment to give you even coating thickness and a prefect surface that needs no buffing (which reduces thickness). After all of this, they (finally) start assembling the truck.
Any body shop is going to slightly disassemble your truck, DA sand it (sometimes going through the primer), mask off the parts they didn't disassemble, then shoot it by hand. The quality of the paint is entirely dependent on the painter. With any luck, it might look half way decent. As for corrosion resistance, sorry, but it will suck. But - and this is important - you will always be able to tell the vehicle has been painted. You can guess what this does for resale value.
I had a Ford F-150 with a similar "bad paint job" a number of years ago. I was able to prove beyond a doubt - due to the testing means I had access to - that my truck's finish did not meet certain critical factory specifications. Ford eventually offered to repaint it and I refused for the above mentioned reasons. I held out until they (after a long battle) made it possible for me to get a new truck.
Good luck in your battle. (And it will be a battle.) Let this be a lesson to never buy anything without a proper full inspection. Hope that helps.
And that won't show you half of what goes into it. For instance, did you know that Body Shop personnel cannot wear certain deodorants? Because there's a possibility that a chemical in them will screw up the finish. Yea, they go through that kind of trouble in a Collision Shop. Not!
And the reason they go through so much trouble to assure a good paint job is that a bad one costs a bloody fortune to fix.
And the reason they go through so much trouble to assure a good paint job is that a bad one costs a bloody fortune to fix.
I worked 12 years at FOMOCO at Mich Truck Assembly Wixom Assembly and Finally Dearborn Truck Assembly. Started in Body Shop and Finished in Paint Shop.
The deodorant is only one part.... perfumes, laundry wash, hair spray, etc... any chemical that could interfere with the paint process was tested at Ford's main paint kitchen to see how they affected the paint process. On top of that paint personnel were required to wear polyester coveralls, lint free gloves and head covering to keep as muck dirt and contaminants out of the paint. If something was found, especially fish eyes, it was tracked down the offending area and the person(s) had to to do a panel test. By that I mean they have to "flake skin" and such onto a test panel that was then painted, baked and examined to see what that person(s) chemical makeup was that was affecting the paint process.
In body shop, sharpies were a big no-no. No matter how much you tried to remove a sharpie it would still show through the paint.
#36
04-05-2015, 04:07 PM
Quoted for the truth.
I worked 12 years at FOMOCO at Mich Truck Assembly Wixom Assembly and Finally Dearborn Truck Assembly. Started in Body Shop and Finished in Paint Shop.
The deodorant is only one part.... perfumes, laundry wash, hair spray, etc... any chemical that could interfere with the paint process was tested at Ford's main paint kitchen to see how they affected the paint process. On top of that paint personnel were required to wear polyester coveralls, lint free gloves and head covering to keep as muck dirt and contaminants out of the paint. If something was found, especially fish eyes, it was tracked down the offending area and the person(s) had to to do a panel test. By that I mean they have to "flake skin" and such onto a test panel that was then painted, baked and examined to see what that person(s) chemical makeup was that was affecting the paint process.
In body shop, sharpies were a big no-no. No matter how much you tried to remove a sharpie it would still show through the paint.
I worked 12 years at FOMOCO at Mich Truck Assembly Wixom Assembly and Finally Dearborn Truck Assembly. Started in Body Shop and Finished in Paint Shop.
The deodorant is only one part.... perfumes, laundry wash, hair spray, etc... any chemical that could interfere with the paint process was tested at Ford's main paint kitchen to see how they affected the paint process. On top of that paint personnel were required to wear polyester coveralls, lint free gloves and head covering to keep as muck dirt and contaminants out of the paint. If something was found, especially fish eyes, it was tracked down the offending area and the person(s) had to to do a panel test. By that I mean they have to "flake skin" and such onto a test panel that was then painted, baked and examined to see what that person(s) chemical makeup was that was affecting the paint process.
In body shop, sharpies were a big no-no. No matter how much you tried to remove a sharpie it would still show through the paint.
And as for some aftermarket paint jobs actually holding up to the test of time, where the vehicle is driven makes a huge difference. If you live down south and away from the ocean, an aftermarket paint job might actually hold up for quite some time. Up here in the Great White North where we use road salt, even a factory paint job is lucky to last 5 years before rust starts bubbling through. Collision Shop paint won't last nearly that long.
#37
04-05-2015, 05:40 PM
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#38
04-06-2015, 01:41 PM
Ford Customer Service Team
#39
04-06-2015, 01:48 PM
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#40
04-06-2015, 04:32 PM
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#41
04-06-2015, 04:33 PM
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#42
04-07-2015, 09:52 AM
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#43
04-08-2015, 09:23 AM
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#44
04-08-2015, 12:28 PM
Don't give up the faith and don't bad mouth them - yet. They have unexpected things pop up in their lives too. As I mentioned on the phone, a problem like this is going to take a while to sort out. Be both patient and persistent.
#45
04-08-2015, 12:31 PM
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