2009 - 2014 F-150

2013 F150 5.0 Issue

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  #1  
Old 08-07-2016 | 11:39 AM
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2013 F150 5.0 Issue

Truck details:
-2013 Supercrew
-5.0 Coyote
-57,XXX miles
-Chrome Package

Hello all,

I've posted in another forum about this but didn't get much feedback, so I'm hoping I have better luck here. A few weeks ago I installed the Powerstop K3167 front brake kit to cure a warped rotor. The good news is the brakes work great, the bad news is another issue has arisen since the install. For lack of a better way to describe it, my truck feels like I'm pulling or hauling something when it shifts through gears 2-4. At first I thought it was a brake issue but I've gone through every guide online to ensure I installed everything correctly and I've checked for dragging brakes on all four corners numerous times under numerous conditions. I've also noticed that it seems to be shifting harder and it seems to have a hard time finding the correct gear to be in, it seems to kick out of 6th and into 5th on the interstate more frequently than it used to. Though it isn't severe, I have had some MPG loss as well. I replaced the air filter and cleaned the MAF sensor per some other advice and it smoothed the idle significantly but didn't fix this issue. I'm due for the 60K service which involves a transmission fluid and filter change, so I'm going to get that done this week so I have a mileage buffer on the powertrain warranty. I'm at my wit's end with this. Other than this issue my truck has run like clockwork and I really enjoy it. If anyone wants more details I can give them. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
  #2  
Old 08-07-2016 | 08:00 PM
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maybe the new brakes are messing with the traction control system?

traction control/stability control will limit throttle opening and reduce engine power during an event to help maintain control. If the system *thinks* there is an issue/event then it may act under its programmed parameters and back off the throttle
 
  #3  
Old 08-07-2016 | 09:50 PM
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From: OH-IO

maybe he pinched or damaged or not reconnected an abs sensor and that may be the root of his problem.
 
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Old 08-08-2016 | 11:23 PM
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Thanks for the input, guys. I thought about the ABS sensors so when I had it apart the last time I checked the connections and the cables - no noticeable damage or wire chafing and everything was plugged in. I'm starting to wonder if it's torque converter-related. I noticed today that under hard acceleration it will hesitate for a bit and then it feels like it unlocks and it takes off. As it's pulling it feels like it's surging slightly, it's not a smooth acceleration. It feels like the AC compressor kicking on and off but it does it regardless of whether or not the AC is running. I baby this truck as it needs to last me a while, so I don't do many hard accels, but I had to today, hence the update. Patman, how would I verify if it's TC related? I drove to work today with it off and didn't notice a difference. I have 1K on the new brakes, do you think it's still learning the new stopping distances and over compensating?
 
  #5  
Old 08-09-2016 | 01:38 AM
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I would try two things.

1. Disable Advance Trac by pushing the TC button once and the again, but holding it the second time until the "Advance Trac Disabled" message comes up. Test and see if you can re-produce.

2. pull the ABS fuse and disable the system and test.

At least this way, you can narrow it down a bit. You could also by a cheap laser thermo gun and confirm that you don't have a brake heating up and dragging.
 
  #6  
Old 08-09-2016 | 11:12 PM
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Blown F-150, thanks for the reply. I tried disabling the Advance Trak today and it didn't seem to make a difference. Tonight on my way home everything started out fine, the truck finally felt normal after two weeks of the issue, but I had to make a quick stop and the issue immediately came back. I'm thinking you're on to something with the ABS idea. I noticed the issue the first time after I did the bedding procedure for the Powerstop brakes, which requires a series of quick stops. I will undo the fuse tomorrow and report back. Thanks again.

-Mark
 
  #7  
Old 08-11-2016 | 10:52 PM
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Update on this. I checked the rotors with an infrared heat gun this morning and the driver's side was around 25 degrees warmer than the passenger's. The truck had been parked about 5 mins. This doesn't seem like a very big variance but I would think they should be the same. Knowing that the calipers aren't sticking, would you think brake hose or something with the ABS sensor? I haven't taken the fuse out yet.

-Mark
 
  #8  
Old 08-12-2016 | 12:52 AM
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You wouldn't normally think brake hose deterioration on a 3 year old truck, but I suppose it's possible. I just had one collapse on me, but it was 13 years old! It caused the brake on that side to drag.
 
  #9  
Old 08-14-2016 | 11:29 AM
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That's what I was thinking as well. The issue doesn't seem to be as noticeable as it was right after the brake change, so maybe the truck needed to relearn the driving patterns with the new brakes. It still feels sluggish occasionally after it's warmed up, and I haven't lost anymore MPGs, but it hasn't returned to normal either. I have the 60k service appointment at my local QuickLane on Wednesday and I'm going to see if they can do a reflash of the tranny to start from scratch. Hopefully this fixes the issue.
 
  #10  
Old 08-25-2016 | 12:29 AM
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Update on this. I had the 60K service done and they found two bad coil packs causing a misfire. Had them replaced the the truck did well for a day or so and now my dragging feeling is back and it feels like it's getting worse. I've found that it happens more often after I've been sitting in traffic or doing a lot of stop and go driving. Once I get out on the highway the problem subsides. I'm also still losing MPGs. I religiously got 18.5 average before all this started and now I' down to 17.8. Surely I'm not the only one who's had this issue. I've yet to pull the ABS fuse but I'll do that tomorrow. I love my truck but I'm starting to get fed up with whatever this is.
 
  #11  
Old 08-25-2016 | 12:33 AM
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The brake install timing could be coincidental, but maybe a front hub bearing is going out, and causing your "warmer" readings, and if the hub bearing is going out it can cause ABS issues as well


Did you have unusual or uneven brake wear from the previous set of pads/rotors?
 
  #12  
Old 08-25-2016 | 11:35 AM
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Ok, i am going a totally different way then everyone else. On one of your post's you mentioned when WOT there was a surging. On my truck this is first signs the plugs are needing to be changed. Also, you mention that they replaced a couple coils and it fixed the issue for a couple days. Once again that leads me to believe it could be spark plugs or coils or the coil boots.

I really don't think the brakes are causing the issue. But what do i know? I'm just one of the v6 guys
 
  #13  
Old 08-25-2016 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by KingRanchCoy
Ok, i am going a totally different way then everyone else. On one of your post's you mentioned when WOT there was a surging. On my truck this is first signs the plugs are needing to be changed. Also, you mention that they replaced a couple coils and it fixed the issue for a couple days. Once again that leads me to believe it could be spark plugs or coils or the coil boots.
+1

Throw a new set of plugs in it and go from there. Your already at 60K and they are only 100K plugs to begin with. If they are cheap enough, put in a whole new set of coil boots too. Then you will have eliminated two of the three most likely causes.
 
  #14  
Old 08-25-2016 | 04:29 PM
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If the boots are bought online from Tasca or Rock Auto they should only be a couple bucks each. I think I paid 1.78 each for my truck last plug change
 
  #15  
Old 08-25-2016 | 04:45 PM
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I HATE the mobile version of this website! I typed up a nice long version of what might be going on and how to fix it this morning. Somehow it disappeared completely and my web browser gets hijacked here, A LOT!

Short version, disconnect the battery. The adaptive shift strategy might be what's causing it.

Put new plugs and boots in it. I also doubt that you really had two bad coils. The Ford coils are pretty tough and don't crap out very often. Disconnect the battery while you're doing this. If it was really misfiring very much it would have thrown a P030x or open circuit code. Both trigger the CEL.

Finally, quit babying it so much. The 5.0 likes to rev, let it. Ford put all those numbers on your tach, use them. It also causes the adaptive shift strategy to really suck.
 




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