So last night I Picked up a 2012 FX4 5.0 with 115,000 miles on it.
No service history past 70,000 miles in the oasis.
Going to run an initial service to include all the things that should have been done up to this point.
Heres my list so far:
Spark Plugs
Air Filter
Oil change
Transmission Service (Filter and fluid)
Diff Fluid Change
Belts
Belt Tensioner
Coolant System flush and change
Thermostat
PCV Valve


Adding in some:
Coolant Additive
Transmission additive


So what have I missed or any recommendations for me?

 

Do not use any additives. Use Mercon LV trans fluid or a compatible synthetic and approved long life coolant.

No need to drop the pan and change the trans filter. The trans is designed for fluid exchanges using a machine, it doesn't even have a conventional dipstick.

When you replace the spark plugs, replace the coil boots too. Use Motorcraft plugs, oil filter, and PCV valve.

 

Got ford to do the plugs today on the house. so that's one less thing for the list.
Appreciate the advice on the tranny service ill have to look into it. I do all my own work (Former Mechanic Prior to joining the Military) but I don't have the capability of draining the tranny with out the pan. ill have to call around and see what there charging then.

 

You only get about 1/3 of the fluid out when dropping the pan, and the fill plug is under the vehicle. I'd bite the bullet and get a shop to do the exchange, just make sure they use the right fluid. I gave up on doing tranny service a long time ago when they got rid of the torque converter drain plug. Now, with an awkward fill location, that just makes it worse.

 

You could suck out as much of the power steering fluid as possible and refill with fresh.

Also, suck out the brake master cylinder and refill. Then bleed the brakes until you get fresh fluid at the calipers.

Drain and refill the transfer case.

 

Has anybody dropped their fuel tank yet to change the fuel filter? I'm sure that thing would love to be changed. What a foolish design.

 

Electric power steering on his truck, no need to worry about power steering fluid.

 

It's integrated into the fuel pump. Only way to replace it is to replace the fuel pump.

 

thanks for all the input. its much appreciated.
Deff going to let some one do the tranny service, just gotta find some one I trust around here. lol recently stationed in a new state and always have done all my own work so don't know any of the local shops. Any one in the Ft. Campbell/Nashville area, or even in Memphis area (I travel out there for work quite frequently) know any good shops im all ears.
And yeah the fuel pump is next on my lst but not for this service lol gotta split it up for $$$$ sake. Deff hate the design of having to change the pump rather then having an external filter.
going to hold off on the brakes for now, as the rotors are in bad shape and will need to be replaced next. Plan to go ahead and change out the rotors, pull off the calipers and give em a through cleaning fully draining the fluid and replacing with new when I do the brakes.

 

If you change the rotors, be sure to get a good quality. The cheap Chinese rotors are a waste of money.

 

^ yeah, on top of being active Duty, I work part time at Autozone and get a 20% discount I was considering the Durlast MAX pads and Duralst gold Rotors there supposed to be pretty good, other then that im looking at this kit which will cover all 4 wheels and be just slightly more then ill pay at autozone.:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/powers...-lug-1014.html

 

I have that Power Stop kit on mine. They bite really well once they're warmed up, no fade though. Only question is how long they'll last.

If you're interested in that kit, buy the parts individually from Rock Auto. Meaning buy the pads and rotors separate than the pre-packaged kit. Should be around $340 before shipping where as the combined front and rear kit is $440 from Rock Auto. If you google Rock Auto coupon code you should be able to find a 5% off code as well.

If you'll be doing the brakes yourself pay attention to the inside vs outside pad on the front calipers. The inside pads are different from the outside. Inside pads will have little "ears" on top of them. If you put them in incorrectly, the caliper will still go back on fine. It won't sit right though and the pads won't wear evenly and the caliper can potentially hit the wheel.

 

thanks for the tip ill deff look into rock auto. and I know exactly what you mean on the pads. done quite a few brake jobs on these trucks in the past.

 

Good suggestions which I was going to add as well.

 

I had to drop my rear driveline and grease the slip yoke. Not all needed it, but mine did.