2009 - 2014 F-150

2009 Frozen Brake Caliper

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Old 11-11-2016, 07:22 PM
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2009 Frozen Brake Caliper

Hello, I am new to the form and and seeking some advice.
My 2009 f150's front drivers side caliper was smoking after a drive on the highway when I got home. I pulled the wheel off and there was significant resistance, it wasn't completely frozen but close... Do I need to also replace the rotors and pads ??? The rotor looks good no discoloration or heat marks, I haven't pulled the pads off yet Ill dive into it tomorrow. Im just curious if it is good practice to replace the rotors and pads after a frozen caliper?
 
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Old 11-11-2016, 07:42 PM
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The first thing that springs to my mind is are you sure the rubber line didn't collapse? That will cause a caliper to stay on (I've had it happen to me). I replaced a $40 caliper when I only needed to buy a $10 rubber line.

When you dive in tomorrow, see if the rotor spins freely when it's all cooled down. That would lead me to believe it is a bad rubber line. What happens is after you press the pedal and fluid flows out to the caliper, as it tries to return it collapses (pinches basically) the hose shut. After a while it will ease up and the caliper releases.

That said, If the rotor isn't warped and is still in good condition along with the pads you could re-use them. If your budget allows new pads and rotor(s) isn't a bad thing either. Same would go for the caliper, if it turned out to be a bad rubber line.

Anyway those are my thoughts
 
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Old 11-11-2016, 08:04 PM
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The collapsed line may be the problem, I let the truck sit for a few hours and came back to it and the rotor spun free like it should. I will do what you said tomorrow and see if it isn't the line. I ran out and bought parts, but can return them if need be. (hopefully)
 
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Old 11-11-2016, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 2009blue5.4
The collapsed line may be the problem, I let the truck sit for a few hours and came back to it and the rotor spun free like it should. I will do what you said tomorrow and see if it isn't the line. I ran out and bought parts, but can return them if need be. (hopefully)
It's really next to impossible to tell if the line is bad by looking at it, I couldn't tell by looking at mine. To be honest, I had talked to the mechanic at the shop i went to all the time for some advice. That's when he explained what I described to you.

From your reply I would be 90%+ sure it's the rubber line. You should probably replace them both, because if one went the other is probably due too. The other question is do you go ahead and change the caliper? And the pads and rotor(s)?
Are the brakes worn enough that you'll be replacing them soon anyway? If so, you have them I'd throw them in same with the rotor(s) and caliper.

You could gamble and just do the rubber lines, put it together and test drive it around your neighborhood. come back and see if the rotor is overheated from the caliper sticking still. Of course if you have the time and patience to take it apart several times you could go this way.

And remember you should ALWAYS change BOTH front pads at the same time, as well as rotors if they are too far gone.
 
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Old 11-11-2016, 10:15 PM
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I had the same thing happen to me - collapsed rubber line. Caliper was fine but it needed pads and a rotor. For the cost of turning a rotor you can almost buy a new one.
 
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Old 11-11-2016, 10:43 PM
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If a hose is bad, you should change all 5 hoses including the 3 in the rear while you are at it. They are not that expensive from rockauto. I bought raybestos.
 
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Old 11-11-2016, 11:26 PM
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Good points glc, Roadie. glc, as you said buying one is the same or less than getting one turned... if you can even find a place that still does them.
I can remember when it was the opposite, $20 or $30 would get two turned. I think it's become so easy to throw them out along with costs and wages going up that's killed that kind of work being cost effective :/
 
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Old 11-12-2016, 05:47 AM
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Ok, you guys convinced me to to just replace all the lines. I will check the runout on the rotor and turn it down if I need to (I am a machinist). The rotors and brakes look like they were just done on the truck it only has 43k mi. on it.. Ill pul it apart later today and report back w/pics.
 
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Old 11-12-2016, 10:16 AM
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You need to check the rotor thickness and compare it to the minimum that should be stamped on the rotor. These days, there isn't much difference between that number and the original thickness - you can't turn them several times like you could in the "old days".

It's always a good idea to turn them when replacing pads - even if it's just a very light cut to retrue them. The fact that you can do this yourself helps a lot.

O'Reilly's that have a machine shop can turn rotors and drums. We lost our machine shop here when the old guy that was running it at O'Reilly's retired (we have several O'Reilly's here but only had one with a machine shop) and they sent the tools to Springfield.
 




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