Sharp looking truck! I like it. Well worth working on.

Let us know how you make out with the back pressure test, please.

 

That's it, I'm painting my calipers red!

 

Well, I wasn’t able to do the testing today and its supposed to snow until tomorrow afternoon. I’m not sure when I’ll get it done, but I’ll try for tomorrow afternoon, weather permitting. My truck doesn’t fit in my garage, so all work is performed outside.

Since I had to replace my front calipers, I bought ones that were pre-coated red. When I do work on my rear brakes in the spring/summer, I’ll replace the rears as well. Based on the condition of the truck, the parts I’ve had to replace and still replace, as well as the sheer amount of rust everywhere, I’m convinced the previous owner parked it in a body of water for an extended period of time. I’m really hoping that once I fix everything, it’ll run like new again. I’m continuing to find problems as I’m fixing others. It has spent almost as much time parked and on jack stands as it has being driven since I bought it.

As always, I really appreciate everyone’s support and encouragement - all of you rock!

 

I was able to test for back pressure just now, but only on 3 out of the 4 O2 sensors. It was very cold and there was still snow on the ground, so I didn’t want to be out there too long. The only one I didn’t test was the passenger side upstream. The passenger side downstream sensor looked pretty clean, so I was not as concerned about that side. But both drivers side sensors were pretty dirty and these were the ones I just replaced.

All 3 that I tested did not get much above zero, though the needle on the gauge was erratic and would not stay relatively still when idling during any of my tests. During each test, I stayed in park and pressed the accelerator pedal to get to between 2000 and 2500 rpm. I then released the pedal to see what would happen. I stalled the truck once and nearly stalled the other two times.

From there, I removed the muffler and the rest of the exhaust and tried again. No change and when I revved the engine and released it again, I nearly stalled a third time.

At this point, the only parts still connected are the manifolds, the cats, all 4 O2 sensors, and the intermediate pipe.

I’m stumped again and looking for more advice.

Thanks!

 

I’ve been doing some googling and it’s not exactly what I was hoping to see. It could something as simple as the VCT solenoid, as bad as a full engine replacement, or anywhere in between such as the cam phasers, tensioners, gaskets, and timing chain. Oil pressure on the instrument cluster gauge has looked ok through all of this, but that may not be accurate based on what I’ve read, which is it only shows as low below 8 psi.

I’m going to start pricing parts, but I know fixing the cam phasers (upgrade kit to make it a solid hub design - https://www.livernoismotorsports.com/product/LPP822133) will be $750. I figure if I need to open the valve covers at all, I should probably have some of the parts on hand (VCT solenoid, gaskets) and replace them regardless. I’m thinking the cam phasers should be locked using the kit I linked to, but that’s a pretty penny to spend and it may have to wait.

I’m not sure if I should just replace the oil pump or try to see what happens with the other parts first.

If anyone has any thoughts, let me know.

Thanks!

 

Watch these videos - 4 parts. Parts and tools list is in the first comment in each video. You don't need to lock the phasers, the replacements will work fine. Also look at the 5rh video to make sure this isn't what is also happening.

 

I just finished watching all 5 videos (thanks for that!). I'm definitely going to have to replace pretty much everything, most likely including the rocker arms shown in the 5th video (I have the same type of noise). I think that means I may have to replace the camshafts as well, but I would want to inspect them before purchasing in advance.

I just priced out the parts and tools I'll need (except for the camshafts, oil, and filter), and I'm looking at $2,000. I would rather not skimp on the tools and just buy the ones that are linked to in the videos, as I've experienced first-hand what happens when using lesser quality tools. Oh, and this includes the replacement phasers and not the lockout kit I linked to earlier. Most of it would be through Amazon, but the rocker arms would be through 1AAuto due to price. I'm sure I can find some of the parts a little cheaper (fordpartsgiant.com, for instance), but I think at the end of the day $2,000 is about where it will end up.

I also priced out a remanufactured engine and that's going to run me around $3,400 shipped. I'll probably have to purchase some tools for that well and I don't have the ability to take the cab off, so it will be pretty labor-intensive. I do have an engine hoist, though...

Has anyone replaced the parts in the videos? If so, how long did it take and how much of a pain was it? I watched the first video and thought, "No sweat, I can do that!" Then about 1/3 through the second video is when I figured I would have problems. Not because of my skills or lack thereof, but because of the condition of the truck. It looks like I have a remanufactured engine in there already, as it has a sticker with a build date of September 2011 on it (I didn't notice it until after I purchased the truck and started doing some of my repairs). I was also told that the transmission was rebuilt a few months before I bought it, but I don't have any paperwork to prove it. I'm very convinced that the previous owner did not take good care of it at all and I've inherited more problems than I realized.

Thanks!

 

I've worked on these before. It's a medium-level job. You really need to make sure the timing is correct, and make sure to replace the chains. With 2 people, it took us around ~16 hours, but we also took our time. This isn't including the time we spent researching parts prices and double-checking measurements.

You may also want to look at Tasca Parts too. They are competitive as well.

The oil pump you'll want to use is a Melling M360HV.

I was hoping for something simple -- it never is sometimes.

Although, it sounds like the previous owner didn't take care of it. I have a feeling a lack of oil changes.

If it was in rough shape, I'd say part with it, but it's a nice looking truck and can get another life. Definitely fix it.

 

That's all good info to know, thanks!

I'm being pressured by my wife to get rid of it, but because I'm upside down in the loan and can't currently drive it due to the stalling, I have to fix it before I can do anything else. But yeah, I'm thinking a lack of oil changes by the previous owner is the main culprit. But, even with all of them money I've already put into it as well as what I know I still need to put into it (rocker panels, cab corners, rear brake dust shields, rear calipers, fix rust spots underneath and new paint job with bedliner), it is still significantly less than what a new base model truck sells for and mine is pretty loaded. If nothing else, this advances my knowledge and skills, which is always a good thing.

I found a lot of the parts I need in a kit from freedomracing.com for just under $1100 (all OEM and includes the Melling M360 oil pump). They also have the rocker arms for about $50 less than anywhere I've seen so far, but I think I'm going to hold off on purchasing those until I see that I need them and how many. This brings me down to about $1,600 in required parts and tools between Amazon and Freedom Racing. Tasca and Fordpartsgiant were pretty much the same prices (once you factor in tax and shipping) and don't sell some of the parts I need, so I'm just going to go with the kit for most of what I need and buy everything else separate.

With the weather where I'm at being cold and snowy for awhile (we got about 6 inches the other day and expecting some more tomorrow), this will be a slow project for me to get done. I'll post some updates as I'm doing the work, but if anyone has other suggestions or tips, I'm always all ears!

Thanks again everyone!

 

Yeah, no problem. Best of luck on this. The videos glc provided are great videos.

As far as weathering it, do you know of any shops in the area that might let you loan (or even rent) out a bay for a few days?

I've done some deals/work with a few local shops in my area and it's like a gentleman's handshake. I fix a few things for them for trade of a few days of lift time. It's very handy.

 

I wish, but I haven’t had any luck so far. There are a lot of small shops around and anything stuck in a bay that they aren’t working on is generally frowned upon, especially because I’ll only be able to work on it on Saturdays starting next week when I’m back at my job (vacation this week).

I’m going to see if I can clear up enough room to get it in my garage, but even if I do it will be tight and I’ll have to back it in so I can work on the front end. Too cold today, but maybe tomorrow or this weekend when it is above freezing.

 

It was a thought. Yeah, same here, they need all the bays they can get, especially during the winter. Most of the time I'd get would be after 5pm, and it better be off the lift by morning. You also need to establish trust, most of these places have known me and my family since before I was a little tyke. So they know I'm not some random dude going to clean out their shop of tools, or worse, have the vehicle fall on me causing a lawsuit. I use/bring all my own tools. Only thing I use is shop air, the lift, heat, and lights. If I don't have it, I buy it or rent it -- unless the owner personally hands it to me and tells me to use it. Again, a gentleman's agreement.

I was looking at the pictures, and at least you are allowed to work on it in your own driveway/garage. Would be terrible if you lived in a HOA or an apartment complex that bans using your pad as a workshop.

Good luck, and happy New Year!

Also, be safe doing this.

 

So I attempted to do the work today and ran into some issues (of course) and some oddities. I did watch all the videos posted above before I started, so I had it pretty fresh in my head. There are a lot of differences between an 05 Expedition and my 09 F150, most of it in my favor 🤓!

1) Driver’s side valve cover had the VCT seal tear. I was able to scrape it out, but I don’t know how to get the new one in (it is significantly bigger than the hole). Any help would be awesome.

2) Passenger side valve cover I snapped the bolt for the 4th cylinder that holds the COP in place. I have it sticking out both ends and I can’t find an extractor small enough to get it out and it is in there too tight for my vice grips. I’m thinking of cutting the stem on top and then drilling out the rest. Any other ideas are appreciated. I’m trying to avoid buying a new cover.

3) The passenger side cam shaft and other parts look newer than the driver’s side (almost new in fact) and also didn’t have as much oil in it compared to the driver’s side. Barely any oil came out of the VCT solenoid on the passenger side whereas the driver’s side was almost pouring it out. The screens on both are intact and clean, but I’m replacing them anyway.

4) Driver’s side VCT solenoid had the top plastic half snap off when I was removing the valve cover (came off with the torn seal attached to it).

5) I had the darnedest time getting the bolt off the crankshaft pulley - it was rusted on pretty good, but took 4 cycles with my impact and air compressor plus some pb blaster to get it off. The crank shaft did move during this process, so I’m hoping nothing got too screwed up. Oh, and I was only able to get the bolt out after re-installing all the pulleys and belt to keep tension on it. Not fun.

6) Timing chains seem tight and nothing is lose to the touch (cam phasers, roller followers, etc.), but the timing cover and crankshaft pulley are still on.

7) I’m trying to get the last pulley out of the way (forgot the name sorry) that is on the driver’s side that has the 3 10mm bolts screwed in on the side. Two bolts are out but I cannot even see or feel the 3rd one and it is pretty tight. I’ll have to try again next time.

8) I had to disconnect one radiator hose. I wasn’t paying attention and got coolant into the cam shaft area (not a lot, but still), How big of an issue is this and is there a way to clean it out? My gut instinct would be to do two oil changes to flush it, but I’m not sure if that’s appropriate.

9) I removed the fan but for the life of me could not get the shroud out. I have a big fuse box that sits on top of it and two large bundles of wires coming out of it that make moving the shroud tough. Plus, the power steering reservoir and hoses are in the way. I’m opting to work around it, but it is a major pain because my better (bigger) tools don’t fit in some areas.

I’m at 7 hours so far and with the temp hovering around freezing, it’s taking me a lot longer to get things done. I decided to call it quits for the day and work on it again next Saturday, weather permitting. I can only work on it one day a week due to my work schedule and wanting to spend time with my family at least one day! I do have it parked in the garage engine facing out and the door just closes, so I’m still working in the elements, but it is better than the truck being completely outside.

 

Good news for a change! Weather has still not been my friend, but I managed 3.5 hours today (it's been lightly snowing on and off all day). Here are my updates.

1) I got the VCT seal replaced on the driver's side valve cover - I didn't realize that it has a steel band in it, so when I thought I had removed it, I really did not. That is now taken care of and the new seal is in.

2) I drilled out the COP bolt on the passenger side valve cover. I still need to tap the hole so I have something to thread into, but that should be pretty easy (knock on wood).

3) I got the harmonic balancer off without a problem and was also able to move the last pulley (it was for the power steering). That allowed me to get the front cover off and start looking at what I'm dealing with.

4) Everything seemed pretty tight before I removed the front cover, but once I got it off, I found that the passenger side timing chain was loose on the tensioner side, so I'm pretty sure the tensioner has a blown seal. The driver's side was tight all around. I removed the 6 roller followers (per the video above) and they all look like the updated version with the bigger oil hole. From what I can see component-wise, the parts look to be in good shape (cam shaft, roller followers, cam phasers). Because I'm already digging into everything and need to remove the timing components to replace the oil pump, I will replace most of it with new parts for peace of mind. As long as the cam shafts and roller followers look good, I'll leave those alone, but everything else will be replaced.

5) I noticed that the driver's side spark plugs were loose (definitely not how I left them when I installed them) and were black. The passenger side was tight and fairly clean (some dirt/debris, but not black). I am able to wipe the black away, but this concerns me. I'll keep an eye on it to make sure nothing is going on.

6) While cleaning the front cover, I removed all 3 sensors. Unfortunately, I snapped one of the camshaft position sensors and the other one looked dicey. So, I ordered a pair and will install them when they arrive. The front cover was filthy, especially the bottom half (tar-like substance, which is most likely just years of dirt mixed with whatever fluids have dripped down over time). I used 1 can of brake cleaner on just that, and it still isn't completely clean, but definitely a lot better.

Next weekend is supposed to be even colder (around 25 F for the high), but my plan is to remove the rest of the timing components, replace the oil pump, and get the new timing components on. If things are going my way, I'll start sealing it back up. I hope to have everything back together and the truck up and running by the end of January.

 

The repair gods have frowned upon me today. It was very cold, hovering around 7 F with the windchill. Took me 6 hours to not do as much as I wanted to.

1) I managed to tap the hole in the passenger side valve cover but have not tried threading a screw yet. I imagine it should be ok, though.

2) I received the new cam sensors and installed then without incident.

3) All timing components came off with relative ease. Everything looked ok, but I’m replacing all the parts regardless since I have them. The camshafts, roller followers, and cam caps looked to be in pretty good condition on both sides.

4) I cracked and broke the new oil pump during install, which puts me at a dead stop until I get a new one. The folks from Freedom Racing (where I bought it from) are not able to do an even exchange and it most likely will be denied as a warranty claim by Melling since it probably broke due to an installation error and not a defect. While I’m not thrilled about that, Freedom Racing has offered to sell me a new one at cost, which I appreciate and am going to take advantage of.

I highly doubt I’ll have the new pump before next weekend, but I’ll update this thread when I’m able to work on the truck again.