I just ran the power wire for my amplifier today. I drive an '06 Supercrew, so this ought to work fine for any non-heritage '04 and up...

NO DRILLING REQUIRED!! Minimal tools needed!! EASY as pie!

After not seeing much in the way of pictures and any detail on this procedure, I decided to document my steps.

The pictures with detailed steps and helpful tips for any install are located in my gallery ('06 Supercrew Audio Install) and I will try and include every step along the way as I can. So far I just have the power wire and fuse holder documented.

I hope this helps some of you avoid the $90 - $190 install fees you'd otherwise face basically because of the frustration of not knowing where to run power to an amp. I figured I'd let some of the professional training I picked up along the way work for you, the consumer.

BTW-this should be a good spot to run power through for just about any aftermarket accessory, not just amps.

Let me know what you guys think, if this is helpful, etc.

 

Good job actually taking the time to do this. My only concern is routing the power wire near the brake and gas pedals. You may want to route that up across the firewall then down the kickpanel for safety sake.

 

Or you can do like and some others did and run the power wire down the other side. There is a grommet on the firewall on the passenger side of the vehicle as well. No crossing over the engine compartement.

 

Thanks for the comments. I have by the way, secured the power wire basically where it is in the pictures. It is not hanging or dangling in any way, and unless someone is driving with their foot behind the pedals, it should be fine.

That is why I always use split loom and zip ties. I also utilize some of the factory components' natural "flow." If the factory saw fit to have a wire securely up against the firewall right there, then it should be alright.

Also, I ran a check on Crutchfield (not the best, but another source) and this is the grommet they suggest as well.

So far so good... but yes I definitely agree, there are other ways to run it. And if you are not taking extra care to secure the wires, then BY ALL MEANS run it another way AWAY from the pedals...


AND-----

I have the next group of photos up to show the use of a factory head unit as the source unit. It has pictures and tips on dash trim piece removal, installing a hi-lo signal converter, running signal and power on opposite sides, etc.

I even have a "mystery box" shot in there... If all goes well, I'll be building the box for a 12" tomorrow... and grounding an amp... and rockin' out with a simple factory + sub system!

Thanks again for the input, and I hope you enjoy the new pics!

Stay "tuned."

 

BTW - all you need to know about amp mounting behind the seat, and possible truly "hidden" sub location is in this thread here---->https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...r+seat+removal

Thanks to GordoPanocho for doing a pic-by-pic how to!!! He also has a .pdf with instructions!

 

you call that a power wire? lol

 

Looks good

 

What started out as sharing the "power wire" routing only, ended up being a documentation of the whole process...

Now, in case this is in reference to the small gauge of the wire (10), well it came with the amp... I bought the whole shootin' match from a wally world that had it on clearance for $45... amp, amp kit, sub & box... not too shabby! (usually a good amp kit will run that much... and these are made by Rockford corporation)

I'll make my own box to house a 12" -got to have some sort of low end rumble... right now I have the 10" in a Q logic box as it came... Just to test the amp out.

And give me about 20 mins. from the time of this post and you'll have the "finished, almost" pics up too...

All I have left is the custom box building... hopefully have it done tomorrow.

Remember, this install is a factory head unit + 1 sub and 1 amp deal... no big stuff yet.

I'm sure sooner or later I'll go nuts with it all... new nav HU, multi amps, multi sub, components, etc.

This is more about helpin' my fellow F-150 brethren and sistren avoid about what would add up to $600 in install fees at some places (an easy $250 of which might have been the rear seat removal/replacement segment)...

So for all who benefit, this is for you!

BTW- I'm rockin' it already... now to knock out this sub box... if it all works out, I'll definitely share the pics, and post up a .pdf on the box dimensions... I'm aiming at a ported 12" box tuned at 40 hrz.

Pics up in a few...

 

Box is done!


I started with a 12" and ended up with a 10" - it thumps just as well if not better...

If anyone is interested, the pics are all uploaded in my gallery, and accessible through the link at the bottom of my sig.

I will give out dimensions upon request!

Enjoy!

 

Hahaha i was thinking it too until i saw the amp.

 

I kid you not, the "Bolt" products by Lightning Audio are not shabby at all. I was a skeptic too, but I figured for the $45 (regularly about $189) I spent on the whole set up it was worth at least wiring in...

These are products of a division of Rockford Fosgate by the way...

Anywho, I was so impressed with the amp amd sub performance I went and grabbed the 6"x8" three ways as a replacement for the front factory doors' speakers... they rock as well.

Sure if you want to burst some eardrums you could spend a lot more, but for a "beef up" of the factory system, using the factory head unit, a $45 amp kit + amp + sub, a set of 3-way 6x8's for under $40... hey, I'll take it!

I spent under $100 and about 10 hours of time and I've got way more than factory sound. I'm happy.




...for now.

 

hey do i need to run split loom where i ran the power wire through the plastic shield.....do i need the split loom through the palstic shield rather

 

You didn't happen to keep a rough copy of the drawing you used (or measurments) for the sub box you made did you?

 

Good detailed write up. Only one thing is missing....
The use of good quality stereo devices. I know for the price it does well, but when you take as much time to do something as you have done I would not skimp on the products. Im not wanting you to get the idea that Im ragging on ya, but just to let you know my thoughts. Im putting together my setup as we speak and taking my time getting cash for the good stuff up front.
I used one 4 guage power wire to a distribution block spread out to a minimum of 8 guage to each amp. I have two kicker 400.1kx mono block amps pushing two kicker cvr dvc 12'' subs behind the seat of my regular cab 06.
These amps come rated at rms and have a certificate of analysis of max power rating. I swapped out my facotry head unit for a pioneer avh-p5700 dvd player and kept my factory mids and highs. It sounds like your in the freakin movie theater. Rockford Fosgate in the late 80s was top notch quality and really under rated their amps. They had a punch 45 that supposedly put out 45 watts...more like 250. Fosgate sold the company and they make their internals over seas now. The new Rockford has turned belly up and quality has been shot to ****. Same goes for Pyle driver. MTX on the other hand used to be crap flea market stuff, they have skyrocketed in the last few years to high end stuff.
Again, I dont mean to take away from your thread as you strike me as someone who pays attention to detail in his labor. I think you and your truck deserve better equipment though. I think you mentioned that it was just temporary.
By the way, I ran mine through the grommet on the passenger side just because It was the first accesible grommet I found...lol

 

It was something cheap and he enjoys it. After all, if your happy with it, why change it?

I dont think I would call MTX high end either Everyone has their favorites though...