I was wondering if someone can help me out? I just recently bought the new JVC HD/CD/MP3 Radio and I am replacing all my factory speakers with Infinity reference speakers (6002i multielement 65w RMS) and (6000cs component w/seperate tweeter 90w RMS) I also purchased a LT720/4 Power Acoustik amp with these specs:

Number of Channels 4
RMS Power (4 ohms) 85 watts x 4 chan.
RMS Power (2 ohms) 100 watts x 4 chan.
RMS Power (1 ohm) Not Stable
Bridged RMS Power 200 watts x 2 chan.
Peak Power Output 720 watts
Min. Impedance Unbridged 2 ohms
Min. Impedance Bridged 4 ohms
THD @ Rated RMS Power <0.02%
Speaker Level Inputs Yes
Amp Preamp Outputs Yes - 1 Pair
Built-in Crossover Yes - HP / LP
High-Pass Crossover 50 Hz - 500 Hz
Low-Pass Crossover 30 Hz - 500 Hz
Subsonic Filter N/A
Signal-to-Noise Ratio >98 dB
Channel Separation >55 dB
Bass Boost 0 - 24 dB
Bass/Gain Remote N/A
Fan Cooled N/A
Fuse Rating 20A x 2

I want to make sure that this will all work together and I am also not 100% sure how to wire it all for the best results

The wiring kit I have is a Rockford Fosgate 8AWG ground wire.

Can anyone please give some advice?? Thanks

 

This isn't difficult, but time consuming, and it is crucial to do everything just right to avoid damaging anything. If you are the impatient sort and cut corners in order to hurry and get through a job, that could mean trouble. A lot of this is self explanatory. Like the amp will be marked where everything connects. If in doubt, check it out. Don't do something and ask questions later. The only stupid questions are the ones you DON"T ask. And, have a plan. Don't start this without knowing what you want the end result to be. Plan on spending a whole day doing this since you've never done it(that's if you start early and work late, LOL). First order of business always is to disconnect the battery. Negative cable first, then positive. When reconnecting, positive first, then negative. Decide where you want to(or have to) mount the amp. Decide where to run power cable from battery through firewall. There are a number of ways to do this, but most find a ready made hole. They are usually there and will be covered with a rubber plug of some kind. Not sure about the '05s, but my '97 has such a place near the steering column. If you drill a new hole, be sure to use a grommet to keep from damaging the power cable and/or shorting it to the truck chassis. And, be sure you aren't drilling into anything inside the cab. Run power cable from the battery(not connected yet) with the fuse(I suggest 75amps for this set-up) as close to the battery as possible, at least within a foot. Run the cable to the amp location and leave yourself 2 or 3 extra feet of length for now. My cable is run down the driver's side under the sill plate to a fused distribution block. Cables are then run from my distribution block to the separate amps. If you plan to add other amps, I suggest installing a FUSED block now to avoid having to do it later. If no other amps are to be used, skip the block and run the power cable directly to the amp. You will also need to run a ground cable the same size(AWG) of the power cable. Should be with your kit. Another great thing about my distribution block is it has ground connections also. So, my block is connected to the battery and ground. It's a great set-up and very handy. Good grounding is absolutely a must. Pick a spot within 18" or so of the amp(or distribution block, in my case). Scrape down to bare metal and drill a hole and screw down the ground cable ring connector. Be certain you are not drilling into anything crucial. If you can avoid drilling, that's even better. But do scrape to bare metal in either case. I suggest using a big "star" lock washer and putting it under the ring connector. The teeth of the washer dig into the bare metal and make a great connection. I have mine done like this and have never had a grounding issue since the block was installed almost 4 years ago. On the JVC, be sure and connect your wiring harness correctly to the back of the unit. Do not use the speaker connections. There will be a red "switched" power wire that supplies power to the JVC when the ignition is "switched" on. There is another wire, usually yellow, that is a constant power for your clock, memory, etc. Also, there is a remote turn on wire(turns on amp when JVC is turned on). Maybe power antenna and those kinds of things. You have to run the remote turn on wire and RCAs from the JVC to the amp location. From the amp you will run the speaker wiring to the speakers. Just follow the instructions for straight up wiring with no bridged channels. Take care to get the wiring right. + to +, - to -. (And be sure to not have any "stray" wires that may touch between channels) It doesn't hurt anything to connect speakers incorrectly, but you will lose a lot of low end frequencies if you have one side correct and the other wired the opposite. The speakers are "out of phase" with each other, and the low frequencies from one side are cancelled out by the other. Doesn't affect higher frequencies so much. Having said that, sometimes a user will purposely connect certain speakers "out of phase" to change imaging. That usually will be a midrange or tweeter. Experiment with your components, if you feel comfortable doing so. My passive crossovers for my componenets have a switch to change phase for the tweeters. So it can be a useful thing, but I wouldn't try it with 2-ways. Reconnect battery and begin tweaking system. You will need to adjust gain, and use the high pass filters, NOT low pass. To adjust gain, set gain to lowest point and set the JVC volume control to about 85% of max. Begin turning gain up until you hear distortion and back it down slightly. A good starting point for high pass settings is about 70hz. If there is a lot of bass distortion, you may need to turn the high pass up. This will keep those low frequencies out of your speakers. Trade off for that is your system will be thin sounding with no subwoofers.

I've probably forgotten something, so somebody else chime in.

 

Thanks a lot this will do the trick

 

while the amp I have do the trick for the speakers?? I tried to match as good as possible for low cost/high quality??

 

Looks like a good match to me. The coaxials will be a little overpowered, but they should take it no problem as long as your not crazy with the gain and volume ****. Id hope those things could take another 20 watts anyway lol